leemoe83
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Posts posted by leemoe83
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Something I just thought of, I think the occasional FTE started around when I switched to MG 124 HP bullets, is it possible the bullet profile is causing ejection issues with the next round in the mag doing something goofy with extracted case? I don't remember ever having ejection issues when running Zero bullets.
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Have you let anyone else shoot your gun and do they have the same issues with it you have?
The FTE is so few and far between that it would not be practical to have somebody shoot it for a 1000 rounds to find out it didn't do it. I do not slow the slide down with my thumbs or weak wrist it. Nothing touches the slide with my grip, I keep my thumbs off of the gun. The FTE's are few and far between but when I had a malf at Area 5 that turned a big field course into a 30% stage and cost me a top 10 finish it becomes a problem.
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The entire trigger housing was replaced, so yes the ejector has been replaced. I will look into the Zev extended ejector, I think I might look at ordering all the different extractors I can find at this point. I didn't list all the parts that have been replaced, but the ejection issue happened with three different recoil springs, everything on this gun has been replaced at one point or another except slide and frame.
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I have a gen 3 glock 34, it ran strong for close to 30,000 rounds, only issue up to that point was I wouldn't feed some bullet profiles that had long OAL. Probably shot at least 10,000 reloads through it. Eventually it start choking about every three hundred rounds I would get a failure to eject. It always extracts but would end up with the spent case jammed horizontally along the axis of the bore between the breech face and the barrel hood, the next round would be in the process of chambering, it never does the traditional stove pipe. What I have done so far;
1) I case gauge all ammo, shooting reloads off of a 650, everyting on the press has been cleaned multiple times, if the round does not slide in and out of the case gauge it gets pitched. I am running mixed range brass.
2) Bumped up PF, running 3.9-4.0 grains of Titegroup under a 124 grain MG HP, last two major matches I have been to the PF's where 137 & 136.
3) 13 lb. recoil spring
4) On 3rd trigger housing with ejector, all had 336 ejector.
5) New extractor
6) New extractor spring and plunger assembly
7) Had FTE with brand new mags, mags do not seem to be the problem.
8) New barrel, old barrel was not worn out, they both hit same velocity with same load.
9) New magazine catch and spring, thought maybe the mag was not sitting high for the mag spring to help eject case.
10) Gun can be clean or dirty, doesn't matter.
I have a gen 4 trigger housing with the new 30*** something ejector on order (backorder untill 6/29), I am going to try and swap ejectors on a Gen 3 housing. I have not tried running all new one head stamp brass, I really don't want to because I am cheap. If the new ejector doesn't work I am out of ideas, anyone have some suggestions?
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Sounds as if you had a low charge or contaminated powder. Did you lube the cases and get to much in the case? I suppose it could have been a bad primer that did not burn the powder. If you haven't cleaned the gun pull it apart and look for unburned powder in the gun.
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AR15.com has a poster name Molon who has done some very detailed testing of the majority of the cheap 55 gr. and the military surplus ammo. He shoots the ammo out of different rifles, and also has testing on match ammo as well. Some guns will group the cheap stuff well, but the majority of AR 15's do not shoot the cheap stuff very well, you lucky if your getting 2 MOA. 3 MOA is probably more average. His posts are in some of the FAQ threads, you don't need to be a member to look at them.
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If only they could get Michael Mann to direct one of the Bourne movies, then we could get some good gun play, and Bourne would actually figure out that it is easier to shoot then get into a 10 minute fist throwing contest. Hope the new one, is better than the first 3.
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As in New York City, New York? You are the first person I have ever seen on this forum from that area. Welcome, and sorry for all the stuff you must have to deal with to play with guns. Soldier on man, you're an inspiration.
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JP's cheapest fire control upgrade is the trigger, diconnector, and springs. Use standard hammer, set take up and over travel and fit safety engagement. It is kind of a PITA but when your finished it is an excellent single stage, using the standard hammer and the 3.5# springs will ignite all primers. I saw a link here where you can get one for $116 plus shipping. It is so easy to improve over stock GI without paying an arm and a leg. Of course the majority of my time is spent shooting Glocks so any light single stage feels wonderous to me.
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IMHO your kind of building your rifle backwards, I would suggest starting with the real important stuff, like the barrel and recievers. I just dont see a $75 charging handle being a priority.
1) Length and weight of rifle, accuracy expectations, now choose barrel and gas block.
2) Get some decent upper and lowers.
3) Standard Mil-Spec bolt and carrier group, with extra powered extractor. If you think you have the money you can get a LMOS, another good thing is barrels that come with matching bolts, keep that in mind but not a show stopper.
3) Buy the GI upper and lower parts kits (usually cheaper this way even if you change parts).
4) Pick a trigger (You can get a good JP single stage for $130 plus shipping, it will not slow you down).
5) Pick a handguard (Free float if shooting past 100 yards). You can get free float for less than a $100.
6) Sights (iron or scope)
7) Now if the budget starts getting tight the standard A2 stock works quite well and a lot of the top shooters use it. Buffer springs depending on gas system length. But pick a stock.
8) Don't overlook the grip, if you have big hand you will not like the standard A2 grip, it is quite small, suggest the magpul MIAD or the Ergo.
Barrell will be the biggest factor in terms of accuracy, handling, and weight.
After all that writing, the Loki 3 gun rifle looks awesome for the money.
I know your budget is a little tight with including an optic, but don't short yourself on glass. A $2,000 dollar rifle with a $300 scope is a $300 dollar system, or so the saying goes.
The great thing about the AR is that it is an awesome system for upgrading yourself. So if you can't afford a certain part now, get something to fill the bill for a while untill you can get what you want. But all the coolest goodies in the world wont replace tons of ammunition down range in practice
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If your gun has grip tape and you where gloves that allow the grit to get into the fibers a little the grip is amazing, like literally no slippage of the weak hand with factory .45. But the con is it makes it difficult to readjust a bad grip, similar to using products like pro grip, I tried it a couple times in a match (Pro Grip) but trying to adjust your grip as your extending the pistol is difficult, you hands can get sort of stuck. Gloves are against USPSA and IDPA rules I think.
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I love the competition seater die, it does center the bullet better in the case, you do not need to get the bullet nose pointing straight before hitting the seater die therefore improving reloading rate, throw that bullet in there crooked, it doesn't matter (with in reason). I can load ammo without belling the case mouth if I want. I use the competition seater on the XL650, they're worth the money. There has been a previous thread on this die before, I believe the consensus was that some people were not setting the dies up correctly and it was not improving the seating operation. The seating plug is floats below the stem on a spring, when the bullet first contacts the plug it is centered in the die and on the plug while traveling upwards compressing the spring. When the plug contacts the stem the seating process begins.
If it is set up correctly you WILL see OAL variations, depending on the ammo consistency you can see a lot of OAL variation, the competition die contacts the bullet orgive rather than the nose, and most pistol bullets have varying dimensions from the nose to orgive, but the bullet jump, the distance the bullet travels when it is fired to touching the rifling, will be more consistent. The micrometer adjustment thing is just a bonus.
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I wouldn't worry so much about classification as were she is placing in the matches, is she improving her % of the winner? Finishing at a higher standing? Some people do not classify well, their shooting strengths are in stage breakdown, movement, and not messing up. Classifiers are a decent judge of shooter ability but have a tendency to highlight the static skills; draw, hose, reload, hose some more. Classifier scores are some of the easiest to improve with dry fire; draws, reloads, and transitions. Dry fire practice ten minutes a day can make enormous improvements especially for newer shooters, downside is that dry fire can feel like work. But it is worth it.
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The only difference you will see between the Glock 34 and the Glock 19 is that it will be easier to shoot stuff, much longer sight radius, and longer frame, if you can shoot the G19 well you should be able to start shooting the G34 out of the box.
Some mods to consider for the G34; 1. Factory sights have to go, they suck, recommend Dawson Precision or Warren Sevigny Competition. 2. Grip tape. 3. Replace the extended slide stop release with a standard slide stop release, most people hit the extended while shooting and the slide does not lock back. 4. Shoot the gun for awhile before messing with the trigger, the lighter the Glock trigger gets the mushier it gets, some people don't like it, the G34 trigger will be a lighter allready than the G19 because it has a 3.5# connector. 5. Buy lots of ammo and practice.
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Look at FAQ's at top of handgun techniques thread.
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Posting some pictures of what your talking about would help, to be honest the anatomy talk will go right over everyone's head including mine. Some pointers on grip.
1. Everyone's grip will be slightly different based on hand size and the gun's grip size.
2. Taking into consideration #1 the more contact you can make with the grip the better. That being said I have large hands and when I shoot my Glock 34 my hands swallow up the entire grip, when I shoot my Glock 21 I still have some exposed grip on the weak hand side close to my wrist cause the grip is huge.
3. Typically the more canted you weak hand grip the better for controlling recoil.
4. When gripping the gun freestyle the weak hand is usually the workhorse for the grip (referring to how much grip pressure is applied), think of the weakhand as a vice, squeezing the strong hand into the gun along with palm of the weakhand.
5. The closer you can get your hands to the bore axis the better for controlling recoil.
6. The first joint on my strong hand fingers above the knuckles typically seat inside the same joint on my weak hand.
7. Grip the gun with the strong hand first, the web of your hand should be as high up on the grip as possible, the bore should point down through the strong elbow (only at first, you will roll your wrist later as the weak hand make contact).
8. The weak hand will come in as high as possible tight under the trigger guard, line up the joints of the hands and roll you wrists on both hands so that the weak hand rolls in and the palm make contact with the weak hand side of the grip, if your thumbs are pointing straight ahead your probably on the right track. Your strong hand thumb should rest on top of the weak hand thumb.
9. Different shooters do different things with there thumbs, I like to have no tenison in my thumbs and the thumbs do not contact the slide or the frame, this gives me sight tracking that is straight up and down. Some shooter do put tension on the side of the gun with there thumbs, this is irrelevent so long as the gun returns to the exact same spot as before the shot in the quickest amount of time possible.
I can only tell you how I prefer to grip the gun, ask 10 different GM's and you will get 10 grips with slight differences, but in general the big things are all the same.
And after writing all of that, I am sure this topic has been beat to death, if you run a search in handgun techniques you will probably get hits a mile long. And a lot of them will have pictures (worth a thousand words).
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23 in the 9 mm mags, 22 reloadable, have had some stoppages starting 23 + 1.
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I have just finished running about 4500 Fiochi primers and started having failure to ignite in the last 1500 ct. box. The primer is hitting but not setting it off, have never had issues in the past with the CCI, I've got 5000 CCI that I am running next, will see if it was a bad batch or If I have a gun issue. Running a Glock 34 with Vanek striker (I think it is just a polished OEM striker), lightened striker spring and spring cups.
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It was the aluminum roller handle on mine.
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It appeared that during your draw your strong hand moved past the gun slightly and then back down to grip the pistol, it is hard to tell because your hip is right at the bottom of the screen. Ideally you would pull the gun from the holster with a continuous upstroke or as your hand is moving upward come in from the side while going up. I come in slightly from the side as I can not get a consistent grip when doing a straight upward scoop. I maybe wrong but that is how it appears on the first video.
+1 you do have fast hands.
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What doesn't make me happy is getting my finger stuck in the lifter, it hurts. I need to get that welded up. The SLP definitely has some sharp edges that need worked over.
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My SLP had issues to feed and eject the cheap low brass Federal and Remington for about 300 rounds, now it eats everything, have not cleaned it in 6 months. When I was going through the initial choke every 25 to 30 rounds I shot the AA Winchester with no problems. The other thing that made me real happy was that it shot both the Winchester and Remington low recoil slugs to POA off hand at 50 yards right out of the box.
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I still have mud in the witness holes on my mags from 2 months ago, I wipe off the follower if there is some stuff on it with my finger that is about it.
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How are your sights tracking during recoil? Is the front sight going straight up and down, or up and to the right? Have tried different grip pressure with the weak hand and strong hand. It is not unusual for the point of impact to be different when benched and offhand. If my sights are zeroed with lets say a 50/50 or 60/40 weak/strong hand pressure and then I relax one side the point of impact will shift to that side typically. Often when I am working on being relaxed and shooting groups I sometimes relax the strong hand side a little too much and the POI shifts to my strong side. I like my sights to track straight up and down, so if I am seeing the sights moving to the side in recoil I typically start looking at how much pressure I am using with each hand.
It can be difficult to do but when you bench the gun ideally your upper body should be in the exact same position as if you were shooting offhand. So if your at the bench and stand up your all ready in your normal offhand position.
So if you think your not snatching the trigger real hard and healing the gun this is what I would experiment with. Just my thoughts, hope you figure it out.
Trigger Control
in Training Techniques
Posted
When I dry fire I draw and do a correct trigger pull on the first target and any target after that I use a sight picture only. I shoot a Glock and for a while I would stick a piece of paper behind the barrel hood so I could keep pulling the trigger while dry firing without operating the slide. It caused some really bad habits with trigger control. I started slapping the trigger super fast during live fire and accuracy went out the window.