joshua
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Posts posted by joshua
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If you really like the trigger on that gun, more than likely its still usable. Take your time if fitting that new safety, file a little bit of metal at a time. The safety should have enough metal to interact safely with that sear.
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I have a Para frame/S-I Slide/Wilson non ramped barrel I just finished and it runs flawless with 19 rnd Para mag with Dawson basepads, Wolffe springs and followers. It runs flawless with 155 to 200 grn truncated cones loaded at 1.150 to 1.200. With Semi wadcutters it's a nightmare to feed though. I think I'm lucky it feeds great with the exception to just one type of bullet. Anyway, my para mags have lips spread in between-from .358 and .375. They are a little narrower at the front. My S-I mag is also about the same in spread, but it holds one less round. If I can turn back time I'd buy para mags. Too much tweaking with the S-I mags to make them run. Josh
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Calansiler, What I'm extracting from your post is that you personally did these ports on your pistol? If the burrs are too big then shooting them out might not be a safe move. You can try using one of the lead cleaner kit to knock the burrs out first (consist of fitted rubber plunger and brass patch), then use some abrasive type barrel cleaner to polish up the whole tube. It will be wise to push all the patches from lead out of the muzzle. I use a product from Remington which is mild abrasive but sure gets the polishing and cleaning done. Use of these types of product should be limited to cleaning severely fouled barrels or minor polishing, because it is abrasive and will erode the barrel. Josh
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I've seen some very radical reduction on SV and the likes grips. I think rounding the edges and giving it that soldering gun stippling effect is good, but I've shot one that actually had sand or aluminum oxide glued on the grip surface. That was super on the grip, I just don't know how good it will last once it gets dirty. I think it can be washed since it looked so durable. I wonder why SV or S+I just replace their mold to melt down the sharp edges and give it an all around stippling. I suppose the gunsmiths will lose some work if the molds change. Josh
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Wow, I don't have that much parts breaking except for some real badly tempered firing pin stops. I think I lost 2 firing pins with that problem. I've cracked a caspian 1st gen frame, and the worst investment I ever did on a 1911 was a titanium hammer it started following through making my single stack full auto or 4-5 round burst. I think I've only ruined one extractor (traditional 1911) due to recutting the hook and made it too thin to where it cracked. Hmmm... that's about it.
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If the gun is chambered in 9mm you think the factory made a mistake in installing a 38/357 barrel? How about slugging the barrel and measure the actual size. If it is a 38/357 barrel then you need to switch bullet size. One of my 38 super shoots great groups with bullets sized for 38 super, but if I switch bullets to .355 the groups size increases by 2x. Josh
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The frame that had a crack is coming soon. I'm gonna shoot it again and see how long it will last. Hopefully that Caspian frame will hold after being welded just in the cracked area.
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I would agree with Benny Hill with competition guns, I never needed the slide stop except to hold the barrel in place.
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Are you sure you're having full slide travel? Did you change your loads or recoil spring? Did you install any shock buffs?
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Also if I may add, it was the time when lower barrel lugs were breaking when I had this gun done and I believe the smith said the cracks were coming from Wilson/Nowlin type ramped barrels and the primary culprit was the sharp corner it had. I've also seen this happen on slides with ports lowered with sharp corners. If you think about it the theory is valid. Josh
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It is a Caspian Hi-cap. I think if I order an STI with the Wilson Nowlin cut then have the relief cut it will work. What do you think? Josh
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eerw, thanks for posting the pics. I suppose the Wilson/Nowlin cut will be fine on this barrel ramp, just don't know if the slight radius between the flats will hit the shoulder on the frame. Might as well investigate that area. josh
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Just sent the pictures, I couldn't get the camera to focus correctly but it should give you an idea why I'm getting confused because the recoil shoulder it's squared like the nowlin/wilson cut. Could it be that the gunsmitch varied the cut on this barrel ramp? Josh
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Sirs,
If you can give me an email address I can send that picture.
Josh
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If anyone is willing to identify the type of ramp cut I have I can send a picture through email. I don't have a picture hosting website. Anyone? Josh
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I have 2 open guns, and they have different ramp cuts due to their barrels being from different manufacturers. My problem is the frame on one of them is cracked (the better gun) and I can't figure out what kind of ramp cut I need to order for the frame I'm getting so I can install the top end on the new frame. What to do, what to do? Josh
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How many types of barrel ramp cuts are there and which ones are the same? I know the Nowlin cut is different from the Wilson, and the second part of my question, is the Wilson frame cut compatible with the Barsto? If you could just group the barrels that are compatible for me that will be superb. Here is the list of barrels: Barsto, Wilson, Nowlin, Briley, Kart, OlyArms, Para Ordnance, Springfield, Clark, Limcat, Shueman, STI (did I miss any brand?). Josh
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With the new power factor I don't see the disadvantage, just go with a lighter comp like a 3 port. If it was me I'd go with a 2 port hybrid instead of 3 specially if using a hud sight. josh
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Beware of the Armscor website at ph, I was surfing it and everything was fine until I hit the worldshoot in Mactan site and bamm, holy gahooties man it was linked to porn. Just beware if you have kids that are not of age or just the Mrs coming in to your den and wham-she catches you surfing the Armscor site full of nudes. josh
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I've used standard Winchester sm pistol primers with loads that make 175 pf for non hybrid barrel and the primers did not flow. To my experience the Federal small pistol primers are the softest around-not knocking Federal because I love those primers with my revolvers that has lightened hammer springs. josh
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The TJ and MCM brass are very similar and with the same 7.3 grn powder charge that is required for my Supercomp brass (making 172 PF with 125 grn bullets), will yield approx 70 fps more in the TJ brass. I highly advice not to mix regular 38 super with supercomp or TJ due to the difference in rim size-yes it's a small one but, if you're using a standard 1911 extractor it will become to loose for the comp stuff in due time. I like the way the supercomp or TJ stack up in my Caspian hi-cap mags. Believe me I think the Caspian hi-cap are the hardest mags to feed with regular super brass. Also I can load my bigsticks with supercomp and not worry about getting a jamm. My open guns haven't failed in feeding yet when I use the supercomp brass, even when I don't follow the minimu COAL of 1.245, I still have to follow the max COAL of 1.270 because the rounds will be too long for the tubes. I use 38 standard super brass for club matches since I have a load that is very reliable with my standard 19 round mags. I don't mind forcing myself to reload during field stages just for practice. You say why the extra $6 bucks matter? It doesn't - I just have 5k of regular super brass in the inventory that I need to use. =) josh
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WOW! I can actually hear a bit of 8 khz again. I use to do stupid things back in high school such as put head phones on (the cupped over ear ones), insert AC/DC Back in Black in the boom box and let her rip at #8 setting (only because 9 or 10 is distorted). Then shooting and hunting without earplugs. I'm amazed that I can actually hear 8khz in my left ear and most of the time in my right. Maybe it will all come back as time goes by. josh
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As long as you are enjoying shooting go for it. Sometimes it's nice to shoot limited then open. Been a while since I shot a production gun, come to think of it I may have a hard time shooting a production gun unless it's one of those new Para DA. I wonder if my S&W 5906 will be able to compete in my hands. I think I'm gonna try it and see what happens, I'm sure you'll kick my butt, but who cares if I'm having fun. josh
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I'm sure you can find some of them, ask around or post a want ad in the classifieds for it. I'm sure someone here have one just collecting dust in their "Has Been" IPSC box. Using that kind of mount isn't really necessary I think, unless you really want a heavy gun. Mount + rings will be around 5 to 6 oz., then add the tube scope and you may have a 12 oz. sight vs. a 3.5 oz. C-more. Your the driver of your blaster so you decide the worth of it. josh
Pro Mag Magazines
in Gear & Accessories
Posted
I can't spend anymore on hi-cap mags (at 85-100 per pop plus all the upgrades needed like basepad and wolffe springs) Are the Pro-mag 10 round magazines for Para P16 good enough for competition use. I'll just start shooting Limited 10. Josh