WillM
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Posts posted by WillM
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I feel kind of dumb, but I've never had this happen before. Slide is stuck on frame of Kimber Target 2 9mm and I can't budge it.
Bushing is off, guide rod, spring and barrel are loose but slide is hanging up on something on frame and will not move in either direction. I've turned it upside down, wiggled it, jiggled it, pushed down on disconnector with small screwdriver, everything but pound on it. I'm at a loss. Any suggestions?
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Smell it! I've only ever smelled powder that was bad one time but compared to good powder, which has a "sweet" smell, stuff gone bad clearly stinks.
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That's exactly what my 12 ga. hulls looked like when the wad guide fingers (red in 12) were broken. Steve knows this machine inside and out so hopefully he can help. Hi Steve!
The only other suggestion is that the wad is just not right for this hull and you'll have to try another brand or different type of wad. It was years ago and I can't remember details right now but I was using the correct wad for the hulls I had according to the charts but the machine just wouldn't run. A friend brought me a Baggie of different wads to try and problem solved.
Spolar is a great machine no doubt, but if you're able to load both 28 (a feat on its own, I'm told) and most 20 on the Dillon, you're already ahead of the game.
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Are you using the correct wad for the sts hulls? I've loaded thousands of sts and gun club 28 ga. (On a mec) and tens of thousands of 12ga AA and sts hulls on my sl900 and have not experienced this.
It almost sounds like the wad guide fingers are broken. I've only had to replace the wad guide once since 1999 but when the fingers were broken it crushed or split the hull and spilled shot. Take the wad guide off and check that none of the red plastic fingers are broken.
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Thanks for setting me straight on this; I searched their website and didn't find that barrel. Hopefully they'll get my email in time to change the order.
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Thought I was on to something, but I just tried to cancel my order. No phone contact found for CZUSA but I sent email.
If it doesn't go through I guess I'll have a barrel for sale.
So which is the correct barrel to change my current TS to 9 as discussed here on other recent threads? Not lookin to make an open gun, but obviously I was willing to either have the barrel longer than the slide or to have it cut off. Maybe threaded for suppressor.
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Just bought one to use for steel but forgot to order extractor. Has anyone tried to use .40 mags for the 9? I loaded a few factory rounds in a .40 magazine and the base is held securely but it looks like the feed lips allow the round to point too high up to feed reliably, but this is only my quick take on it and I'd appreciate feedback from someone with experience (I'd also like to avoid having to buy a whole other set of magazines to keep track of)
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Blue gun, red gun, sirt gun, cap gun....no, no, no TSA agent is going to let that slide. Where have you guys been? I am in no way related to law enforcement but as a gold level frequent gun-packing flyer I can assure you that you'll find yourself in a very small room if you try to carry ANY type of replica gun onto a plane, in any country.
On the other hand, once the guns are checked, I've never been subjected to further scrutiny different from others. In fact with the recent security changes I've been chosen a couple of times by TSA to leave my shoes on and leave my laptop in the bag. And no, not as part of pre-check. I still can't get selected for it even though my wife was selected in the first group a few years ago...maybe it is the guns.
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You are in far more danger of having your car stolen with the gear in it or more likely just having the car broken into. Take your gear into hotel room at night. Do not leave ANYTHING inside passenger compartment of value, especially if it's visible from outside. They'll break a window to get it and pop the trunk from inside.
I have travelled the world with guns, mostly for hunting, but have driven around Europe with a shotgun in the trunk and never been hassled. I have always had the proper paperwork but have only been checked while flying, never driving.
I always use a lockable hard case ( required for flying) and carry a retractable cable bicycle lock and lock the locked hard case onto something in the trunk of the rental car, even to the spare tire if that's all I can find - anything to slow them down. I always prefer to leave my guns locked inside the hard case locked to an immoveable object or something large like a chair or bed in my hotel room than in the car all day while I'm out. I also carry a plain duffle to put the hard case into to discourage interest in the gun case.
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70 and sunny here in Tucson yesterday, 68 high for today. It did get down to 37 overnight if that makes you feel better.....
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I went into Decot's office in Phoenix and Sam Cherry told me we don't want the front sight TOO sharp in focus or like rooster above we'll have a problem seeing the targets at distance. I use +2.5 for normal reading glasses and he set me up with a +1.00 on my dominant right eye, plano (no correction) on my left - I'm 20/15 in both eyes after double cataract surgery and I'm loving it - I've got the accuracy now all I need is speed!
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Thank you all for taking the time to help; I appreciate it. Will
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Replacing AC/forced air heat ( not a heat pump) 5.5 ton while remodeling in AZ. Any HVAC contractors/techs who can help me with deciding:
- best, meaning most reliable brand/model? Bids so far for Lennox, Trane, Rheem in that price order
- how high of a SEER rating it's worth paying for
- is it worth upgrading to two-stage compressor?, which I thinks means also higher SEER?
Don't mind paying more for quality as it's for long term (I hope) house, but don't want to overpay.
Anything I'm not asking or should know before deciding?
Any help, information and/or experiences appreciated.
Thanks, Will
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Anyone done this? I haven't reloaded shot shells for a while now and could use a dedicated .40 press. The frame and the case feeder are the same so what do you think; feasible?
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I have had one for years on an STI frame and it runs great AND I just happen to be in Tucson if you'd like to check it out. PM me and maybe we can meet. Will
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No harm to check them and I have witnessed chokes shot out of barrel, probably due to wad residue build up by a high volume shooter who was lax in his cleaning. Depends on what bores and choke tubes look like after shooting session. Depends what shell you're shooting and how much plastic wad residue is built up in choke tubes and how well the choke tube fits to the step where the threads meet at the muzzle end of the bore.
Main issue is do not run bore brush, fuzzy stick, bore snake, etc. down bores with choke tubes removed because of potential to get grit, dirt, residue, etc. into threads. I follow different protocol based on which of my shotguns I'm shooting. For example, today I shot 300 factory shells (rio) through my K80. This is a clean shell and the choke tubes are extremely well fitted to the barrels so no carbon residue builds up on the outside skirt of the tube (based on past experience and observation) so before I put it away I run a fuzzy stick down each barrel a couple of times, squirt a spritz of oil for last pass, insert wooly snap caps and put away.
When shooting a Beretta 391 the chokes didn't fit too well and a carbon ring would build up on the outside of the choke tube at the breech end. To a lesser extent I get this with a Benelli M2. Also certain shells would scrub off wad residue which really built up on the inside muzzle end of the tube. Remove tube before bore snaking, etc. and clean carbon ring with solvent and a brass or bronze metal brush and lightly brush threads clean too. A stainless brush could be too hard on threads so I don't use. Use solvent and brass/bronze bore brush to clean plastic from inside of choke. I have chucked brush in drill press or hand drill for extreme build up, just use leather glove to hold it tight and don't let it spin. Clean entire choke tube with solvent and wipe clean. Clean nylon brush is good for threads. Wipe barrel threads with a cloth over your pinky finger, oil or grease threads and install, then clean barrel with snake or brush, etc.
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[quote name Kirbinster
The prep is no big deal. You drink some junk and two hours later you are empty, big deal. The worst part in my mind is being put under. For a type A control freak like me, have someone doing something to me while I am out was the hardest part to accept. Do it and be happy you are fine or catch something before you are not.
I'm the same way. For my first one I convinced them not to knock me out so I think they just gave me a mild sedative. Halfway through the doc and nurses were telling me I had to quit gritting my teeth and start breathing or they'd put me under. I guess they did because the next thing I remember was waking up and being told I could leave as soon as I farted! Next time I didn't argue and let em knock me out.
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I'm in the BE camp of never having gone back to the beam scale (bought in 1977) once I went digital with a Pact in about 1996. Nothing wrong with beam scale but in the volume or accuracy needs I've had at various times over the years it burns too much time to use the beam. Pushing 100k plus shotgun shells on the Dillon alone, not to mention the PWs and MECs before it, weighing powder averages at beginning of each session then spot checks on both powder and shot would eat a ton of time on a beam scale. The Pacts( I acquired another one along the way to use with their powder trickier for precision rifle and dangerous game loads) settle down and give an accurate weight much quicker than can be done with a beam scale.
Do I trust digital? I used it to weigh each and every round of .375 H&H Magnum I loaded for my then-18 year old son to shoot an African Cape Buffalo from 20 yards away in brush so thick one round is all he could get off before it would have been on him (and me).
Do I trust the beam scale? It's what I gave that same son when he began reloading on his own.
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Check out Grizzly Industrial. Workbenches, heavy steel legs and oak workbench tops all reasonably priced. I have the heavy steel legs with a laminated maple top I use in my farm workshop and it's very sturdy.
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I'd like to put one on my JPL open gun if you'll put me on your list
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Different machine but I'm starting to get into the lower end of Brian's numbers on my SL900 loading 18.1 grains of Clays and it's consistent day in and day out. I got on the waiting list when this machine was announced and have been using it since the late '90's.
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(The 5D MkII is whispering to me, though....)
A friend shot this at my place yesterday with the MkII. Notice the shot cloud. I think you should get it.
1911 slide won't come off
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
I'm not quite that dumb...
Slide is stuck about 5/8-3/4" from rear of frame - I can't move it either forward or backwards.