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WillM

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Posts posted by WillM

  1. I already installed mine and don't want to take it apart but here's a "happy snap"

    post-10534-0-82721200-1423336365_thumb.j

    1050 primer slide with brass roller

    post-10534-0-31097100-1423336438_thumb.j

    1050 primer slide with rubber

    And, for the very observant among you, I did NOT take these pictures in Dillon's bathroom; when I bought my new house I used some of the old cabinets and countertops for my loading room and it just so happens to match the Dillon men's room.

  2. Road trip to Dillon yesterday. Bought case feed cam - $9. Bought new primer slide with brass roller instead of rubber washer - $80.95!!

    I asked to be a beta tester for the wire replacement for the primer retainer station, but he just smiled and gave me a new white plastic wedge - for free!

    The guy in the showroom was very knowledgable and helpful so it was worth the trip. Thank you Dillon.

    I will give a report when I'm done setting up but just looking at the new primer slide it seems to me that the only difference, as "Dillon" said in his post above, is that instead of a roll pin with a rubber washer there's a threaded hole with a screw holding a brass roller. I'll probably just suck it up and use it as is ($81!) but for you many DIYers out there if you can find a brass roller of the correct OD (.243") just tap your current slide and screw it on. Or maybe Dillon will have just the screw and brass roller available to save you the cost of a new primer slide. Oh well, at least now I've got a spare.

  3. "Dillon" responded here but didn't answer the question I originally asked nor did he respond to a pm I sent him. Still not sure why the phone tech told me he had never heard of the primer cam update when they tell this forum it was done a year ago. Tried to call today but was 14th in line this morning and 18th a minute ago. Could I respectfully suggest more help may be needed for their phone lines....

    As to the visual primer feed wire, in early October on this very forum Dillon said "We have a few samples in the field being Beta-tested now. Should be available in about 60 days."

    On November 24 he said "probable release date in early 2015". Now that it is early 2015 he said today that it won't be ready for a couple of months...

    I own three Dillon machines and have always received prompt help for any of the minor problems I've had over the years with no charge for the 550 or the SL900. When I called yesterday I fully expected to pay for any 1050 parts and still have no problem with that as those were the terms when I bought the machine but I would prefer not to spend the time setting up a machine which needs updated parts. Any help is appreciated.

  4. My search is not turning up the exact post, but last night I copied a picture posted by Dillon on the Dillon (this) forum of the cam and I just took a picture of my cam and they are absolutely different. It was not the aftermarket mod, it was claimed to be the Dillon fix.

    Mine is this one post-10534-0-93047700-1422577729_thumb.j

    Dillonpost-10534-0-86912300-1422577760_thumb.j

    Can't think of any reason Lee at Dillon wouldn't know about this. Not sure what to think. Anyone from Dillon monitoring this forum? I could also really use the new clear primer cover as that's the only fairly regular problem I had with this press.

  5. I bought this 1050 new in 2007 and loaded 9 major for a few years with no issues other than the occasional expected primer bobbles and a somewhat sticky case feed slide. After a move and the machine sitting in a box for a few years I've been reading up on it in the forums before I set it up again.

    Here on BE I found that the case feed cam has been redesigned with a different profile for a smoother feed and that the primer station retaining tab had been changed from white to see-through and should be available now. Pretty sure I read both items had been confirmed by whoever answers for Dillon on this forum.

    I just got off the phone with Lee from Dillon and he unequivocally denied that either of these changes had been made or were going to be made. I was trying to order them to reduce future problems but....

    What gives?

  6. My 83- year old mother has had the IPad Air with the Apple cover/stand for about a month now and I'm jealous. My regular IPad with the Apple cover seems twice as heavy and if I try to hold mine with one hand it occasionally falls off the magnet. Hers is easily held one handed no problem. I don't mind using the pad to type and would find a keyboard too clunky for the way I use it.

  7. I figured that was the case. Sounds like you've got a great load (every eighth shell gets "free" lead) and a great kid. My two boys and I spent many a happy and fun time at the clays range and hunting birds.

  8. I had a pair made with 1.0 power for the right eye and none for the left eye, with good results. After wearing them a few minutes, your brain adjusts and makes everything work.

    I did the same at the suggestion of Decot's optometrist. Although I normally use +2.50 for reading, the +1.00 in my dominant right eye allows me to see the fiber optic sight clearly and also allows me to see the target at distance.

  9. I am going to build him some 1 oz loads on some PB powder next week to see what he thinks of them, they should be around 1600+ fps...

    I hope that's a typo....

    1600 fps is way over and above any reasonable and/or necessary velocity for a target load. I doubt you could find a load (I haven't looked) for PB over about 1250-1300 and even that's not necessary. PB is known as a soft recoiling target powder so it's a good choice at target velocities.

    Admittedly I'm a dinosaur and I know there are new proprietary wads and powders for hunting loads but the fastest load I've ever used for hunting is Kent FastSteel at 1550 out of a gas gun (Xtrema with kickoff) so recoil is not an issue. Out of an O/U would be a different story...

    I just split a pallet of Rio target loads with a couple of sporting clays master and AA class friends which was 120 flats (10 boxes of 25). Of those more than half were 7/8 oz. and the 40 flats I got were 1 oz. at 1280fps, not sure what the 7/8 oz speed is. If we (I'm M class) don't need more than that I can't see why your son would. The other guys shoot the light loads because of recoil issues; I shoot an O/U that weighs more than nine pounds and fits me perfectly and recoil is not an issue for me plus I shoot the same load in competition and practice.

  10. Look for a good used semi-auto Beretta 302, 303, 390 or 391; you cannot go wrong. The Arizona Open sporting clays shoot last week was won with a 302 or 303 can't remember exactly which. Cut stock and adjust shims for cast to fit him and he'll have two shots, no recoil in a target breaking reliable machine. They're easy to clean, easy to keep running and parts are cheap if you need them.

  11. If money were no object what would you want to see in your ideal gun range? Or what would make a successful gun range?

    Money is ALWAYS an object.... not to mention gov't regulations, ie., zoning, noise, environmental codes. You've got to start with the basics before you get to the wishing stage. Successful gun ranges can only be successful if they get built.

  12. Just got my Midway order today. Price was 108.99/5000 last week but it looks like it's gone back to 116.99 which is a dime cheaper per 1000 than PV. Plus it now says PV is out of stock on these (KVB223)

  13. Interesting. I've seen mention (on this forum) of a tool available from Dillon to "re-time" the 550 or 650 can't remember which, but have never experienced an out of time issue with either my 550 or 1050 after about three years of use. Don't have a 650 but have had a SL900 which is based on the 650 for almost 15 years and haven't experienced it there either. Thanks for the heads up on what to look out for.

  14. When I read this thread last month I got all excited and ordered the correct 9mm barrel for my .40 TS (thanks for setting me straight Kneelingatlas) only to find that 9mm magazines are not available! All dressed up and nowhere to go...

  15. I loaded thousands of Wolf srp using the rf100, took a break for a few years, moved it to a new house, unpacked it and just ran the first 100 of 20,000 Tula srp I just got with no problems and without changing anything from before. I also ran a few hundred Winchester spp I had without changing anything. I used suggestions from this site to set it up the first time and I would buy it again.

  16. Gripping grip safety does not lower Schwartz pin projecting out of top of slide which seems to be the problem. First thing I did was google series 80 safety because I'd heard of that but never Schwartz... Googling Schwartz I found plenty on how to disable it but not how to fix my problem without completely removing it which seems to entail destroying the rear sight which I don't want to do.

    At this point I'll detail strip frame and remove Schwartz safety pin, then replace firing pin with a nonKimber one which effectively disables it. This still leaves the slide detent button under spring pressure which could slow or interfere with smooth slide operation but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

    FYI - I originally searched this forum and google before I posted and found only one related post from a guy who couldn't get his .22 conversion slide off a Kimber frame but there was no resolution on that thread which is why I'm posting this. I have field and detail stripped 1911s many times with no problems and was completely baffled by this problem so if anyone ever hears of anything like this again, think Schwartz. Thanks for all of the replies.

  17. So I lightly tapped the rear of the slide with a nylon hammer and it popped off but now I've got a gun I don't understand. What was holding the frame from moving was a pin sticking up from a hole in the frame which seems to have some type of interaction with the grip safety and with a spring loaded "push-button" in the slide. I had to hold this button in in order to get the firing pin stop and the firing pin out.

    Is this the Series 80 safety or something Kimber came up with? I've got two 2011s and three 1911s in addition to this (new to me) one and I've never seen this "feature". So how do I reassemble the gun? When I put the slid on it locked up again. I know for a fact that John Browning did not intend his creation to need a hammer for assembly!

  18. Hard to explain but it's not sticking like it's too dry, more that it's hanging up on something like the ejector or the disconnector - I can wiggle it just enough to hear it contacting something metallic.

    Thanks foe all the suggestions - keep me coming.

    Sarge the BFH is the first thing that occurred to me but I'm trying to keep calm!

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