haze10

I have a Rossi revolver and the cylinder chambers are tight and won't accept cartridges without a lot of pressure. If I wanted to ream them myself what reamer would I need, throat or finish, and how do I do it. Do you know of a hunsmith that performs this service.

I learned the hard way that the Rem 6-1/2 small rifle primer has limited use in rifle cartridges. It was fine for my 30 Carbine but I had a whole case. I know the SR and the SP primers are interchangeable in terms of dimensions. The 6-1/2 has a cup thickness somewhere between a dedicated pistol primers and a real high power rifles primer. So I thought I would have a reasonable chance of using them in 40 S&W. Some reservation that my Glock 23 striker firing pin wouldn't have enough 'umph'. Well I loaded 100 rounds and went to the range. Happy to report all 100 went bang. I didn't notice any difference between these primers and the Rem 1-1/2 SP primer when loaded to the same charge weight. They felt identical. Just wanted to share this on the forum in case any one else bought the 6-1/2 during the primer shortage.

Just getting tired of processing my brass. Can anyone recommend a service for 40 S&W and 9mm where they clean, size, and remove the primer. If you know the costs please post, and if you use them yourself are you happy with them.

I've thought of that also, but was afraid that the lube would make a mess in my case feeder and chute. Sounds like its not that bad. thanks.

I'm running the 650 with the case feeder. Absolutely love it. But I not sure the best way to feed bottleneck rifle cartridges. There are no carbide lubeless dies for bottleneck rifle cases. So if you are going to resize the brass, the case has to be lubed. But do I really want to put lubed cases in my case feeder, and down the feed shute. I think it would cause a mess. Plus, you have to clean the brass on the final loaded round. The way I've been doing it is to lube the cases, resize in my single stage press, then tumble, then the clean unprimed cases go into the case feeder. But this adds addition work and time. Is there another way to do it?

Black Hills says only FFL but they don't ask for any proof. I've been buying from them for years, $200 orders at a time, and never a problem.

On the Dillon 650, the spring that pushes the pawl back on the primer disk. My spring keeps popping off. Its a new spring but that didn't make a difference. Any ideas why, or any way to fasten it in place. It comes out of the notch on the frame, not the pawl lever.

Black Hills Shooting Supplies is still taking back orders on primers.

9mm is a 9x19mm case and 380ACP is a 9x17mm case. Can I use my 9 mm dies to load 380? Not sure if the difference in height will work, but I do use 357 dies on 38 special with no problems.

Replaced the firing pin, the firing pin return spring, and that little bent metal piece that supports the return spring. The gun was acting up when it was stock. At first I change to a Volsq titanium firing pin for $30 but that didn't help. I checked the sear to make sure it wasn't dragging on the hammer as it rotated. The only thing I can guess is happening is that the bolt is not closing 100% on the cartridge. But I can't figure out how that is happening. As far as cleaning, I've been stripping the Mark II to its pieces for years. Everything is clean.

My Mark II has a lot of mileage on it. I have a Volqueston sear and trigger and extractor, new ruger firing pin, firing pin return spring, main hammer spring, and the recoil spring. Everything slides very easily and there no hangups. The pistol works reasonable good when its clean but after 30 rounds or so acts up. I thought a stronger main spring might help.

I've tried all kinds of different ammo, but it doesn't help. I keep getting light indents. I've replaced the main spring, firing pin, etc, but no luck. I actually think it may be a lock up issue with the bolt, but don't want to spend the money on a new bolt to experiment. Generally, I don't think lightening the hammer would work, most cases that would cause lighter strikes. But you may try drilling a hole and filling it with lead, to make it heavier. I'd try that but Ruger won't sell replacement hammers, because too many folks want to defeat the Mark III safety features with a Mark II hammer.

I thought about stretching the spring, but I've always heard that deforming a spring like that would not last. In other words it would work initially but quickly weaken. Are you sure this works longterm.

For the Ruger Mark II or III. I'm tired of the soft primer strikes. I really want to install a slightly strong hammer spring. But I can find is a Wolf that is 'lighter'. Has anyone matched a machine spring that will do the job.

Its probably the barrel. I got the same problem with my G23 and a Barsto barrel. Two things are wrong. first, the reason the glock barrel is unsupported is they move the ramp forward to reduce the insertion angle. Second, Barston is chambering too tight for the Glock. $200 buck wasted and Barsto will just tell you that its not designed for reloads.

Is there really any way to get the 'bump' out of 40SW fired from a Glock. I finish size with that LEE die especially designed for final case sizing and crimping, but it just doesn't work. The bump is too low to the shell plate and all the dies have a slight taper to guide in the case, so that bump just doesn't get fixed.

I see Wolf is selling primers and they are cheapest on the market. Anyone try them yet?

I got the Redding powder measure for its quality rep. But the thing bites when using cylindrical powder. Powder bridges in the throat and I often get powder dribbling out on the downstroke. Don't think its getting past the moving plate maybe just shaking loose. Any idea of how to make this problem go away, or can you recommend a thrower that works well with stick powder.

Is there any die that will remove the infamous glock buldge. I've tried the Lee Factory Crimp. Its a nice die. But the problem is that none of these dies have a sizing ring that actually touches the shellholder. So you are always left with that little gap exactly where the buldge resides. Any ideas.

Yes, you are correct, I wasn't sure whether downstroke meant the cartridge traveling down or the handle down. In any case, its as you say. Cartridge goes into die okay, but as cartridge is being pulled out of die, the expander gets stuck a lot. With the same run of brass, switching between the hornady and the redding, the redding worked the brass easier. That was my only point. I had hoped that the hornady expander was going to be carbide but its steel. Then I could have not lubed the neck inside. Has anyone tried the hornady carbide insert for the RCBS die?

I was checking out Hornady resizing dies for 30-06. Never had any of their dies so thought I would try it. They had a deal right now where they rebate you a free box of bullets. I saw they had a carbide neck expander that does not need interior lube on the case, but its only the insert for the RCBS die. I have an RCBS die but its the X die so you can't change the spindle. So I just bought their regular die and had hopes that the 'tear drop' expander ball would have a similar effect. I got it tonight and set up a comparison. Long story short, I was disappointed. The tear drop expander would often stick on the downstroke. I wound up having to put extra lube inside the necks and then it would work okay. I changed to my Redding die, and the cases without any extra lube inside would go size with much less effort and no real sticking. I don't know how the carbide tear drop would have compared. Just thought I would share this with you.

OK, I'll check it out and make sure its as low as possible. Thanks for the help.

I'm not sure of the age as I bought it new, but I would say at least 15 years old. Yes, there is a flat metal plate on the far side where the case drops down. I have been using slow speed as it seemed to be less problematic, but if you think high is better I'll try that again. Anything to do with the plate?

Using the large rifle case feeder on my 650 and I have a problem with 30-06. The cartridges are constantly getting caught just above the drop point and jamming the rotating plate. Don't see anything wrong. Anyone else figure out a solution.

Not to change the subject, but the Garand is absolutely my favorite rifle. I have four of them. It may not be the lightest, or the most accurate, but everytime I shoot it I feel like I am going back in time. This was the first semiauto rifle every to be employed by an army. You can look at it as the final developement of an end of the era, or the beginning of the next era, in rifle developement. Yeah, I know others will say the M14 was the final developement, but that just means for me that the M1 was the 1st in a change of technology of the new era. Gas operated, semi-automatic, 8 shot capacity, a powerful 30-06 cartridge, and the first to use stainless steel in a war rifle. It is truely a piece of history and a testament to American Know How.