jostein jensen

I had better results with 3N38 than N350 out of my old 9-major SVI. N350 gave more flip and less predictabuility of the dot for me. For a 5"+ barrel N105 would be my main choice without doubt. It was marginal in a shorty to make major, full case and all, but an inch more barrel would have made it better. For 3N38 I had 9,3grs under a MG 124gr JHP set to 1.2". I would start around 8grs and work it up. 3N38 does give some mighty flashes in some guns with some loads in low-light conditions though... Both 3N38 and N105 was nice and clean, the N105 giving a little more unburnt powder residue due to it being so slow.

Dual optics is on hold until I'm in complete control of shooting with just one. Getting a good stance, cheek weld, trigger and reload control and just getting to know the rifle properly before introducing a second optic that potentially fooks with my head on a stage is priority one. Those 300 is better spent on ammo I think. Besides, we only shoot to 300, 350 max around here and 4x should hope fine with that.

No the S&B is 1.1-4.

I'm getting my first ever AR these days and could use some advice as to what bells and whistles to put on this thing for IPSC open division. The upper is an 18.5" bushmaster with flat top, JP tank brake, lightweight carrier and adjustable gas block, Vtac handguard and a S&B 1-4 scope. I'm going to put a harris bipod on it. Lower is stock bushmaster. I've bought an ACE stock and JP lightweight buffer for it, awaiting delivery. I was thinking JP or Jard single stage trigger but other than that, what do I need? Bigger mag release? Magwell? Whats out there, what works and whats crap? thanks in advance JJ.

Is pointing above the berm allowed on this range?

I kinda overshot the budget... I got a good condition S&B 1.1-4 from a friend for a good price, mount included. Not true 1X but I have a strong feeling the S&B is a better quality glass than any of the $250ish scopes out there...

Thanks for the replies. My budget is in the Millet/Burris range.

I've got a good deal on an AR without optics and really need some advice about what to put on it. I've been away from shooting for a while and don't know whats new and whats good for an "affordable" amount of cash. If I could afford it I would have bought a Zeiss or similar, but I think a Meopta, millet or similar is more my price range. Its main use is IPSC open division with all my everyday shooting at 0-50m but the occasional level 3 I'm going to attend here usually has a target or two out around 300 yards. Whats the best "budget" choice? JJ.

In Norway, most ranges are built against a mountain, so thats usually not a problem.

- Paper in front of first right steel is way down on the ground, to avoid it. If you go prone you can get a shoot through. Should it be moved even if its an unlikely situation? - Back right steel is safe. Wall below window blocks the view. Yes its sketch up. I love the program! Its perfect for stage designing. I have walls the same size we use on our practice range, and a wide range of targets and some props made up, so I just copy/paste and move to where I want them. Very easy to check every possible angle for shoot throughs, and draw up lines to find visible/blocked areas from any position to place targets in. I tried upping the sketchup file so you could look around in it, but the forum won't let me. I changed it a little bit to open more up for shooting on the move in the middle. It resulted in a slight target move on the left side as well, to provide an option of skipping a position but the targets then will be further away when you shoot them. New version: Left middle position, low target close to the wall, also possible shoot through to the target out by the berm, but also only if the shooter goes prone. Should this also be moved more?

Start position: standing on X, hands on wall each side, gun loaded and holstered. Procedure: on start signal, engage all targets as and when they become visible. Safe angles 90* both sides. There is 10m from the start position to the port walls on the end, and distance from the windows to the targets on the back berm is 10m. It is possible to shoot more than 9 rds from a single view, but not required as several targets are visible from several locations. Shooting area is closed by walls and fault lines, so running up to any target closer than 3.5ish meter is not possible. Any comments are very appreciated as I'm new to stage designing and any good advice is welcome...

Thanks, I'll try this one. Never done it before so it should be interesting. With crap out you mean get weak and stop feeding?

I'm going to try swapping out the RecoilMaster in my Bedell blaster for a stock Sti steel rod and an #8 or #9 spring to see if it affects the dot movement, How should I shoot to test if it benefits me with better tracking? Now when I shoot the dot moves quite far up, on distance out of the target. I was thinking shooting Bill Drills on 10-15 yards and simply use the split times as reference, with before and after the swap comparison. Is this the way to go? DVC Jostein

+1 for the McClearn oversize pin. Used one to replace a Ti-pin in my old SV 9-major with IBF. No more light strikes and no more flow for me with it.

Bedell full size in .38SC. I used to have an SV IMM in major 9, but the short gun with all those holes was, for me, to disturbing at times. 9.3gr 3N38 made it reach major with ease. In the Bedell, I use N105 and love it. We pay in excess of $50 for a pound box, but its sooo worth it.