F6Hawk

Great explanations, JimmyZ, thanks! And thanks to those who replied, with input like this, I can't be as dumb as I was yestiddy!!

So it ran 611 FPS, and your gun functioned properly. Sounds like not such a bad day, to me. Must have been a very gentle kick! So how does one notice signs of flame cutting? From what you are saying, the pressure required to seat a primer is not enough to prevent this, it requires additional heat/pressure to ensure a good seal with the pocket?

I understand why there are max loads developed so that we don't exceed SAMMI pressures. But when reducing loads, how low can one go, and what problems might be encountered? I am referring to just shooting targets, not competition. I assumed the low side of powder recommendations were those that were so low as to barely cycle the weapon and ensure no squibs. Until I recently had a missed primer. So I knocked out all the powder and added a primer to unseat the round. I weighed the round and it was about half a grain heavier than my dummy round I keep on hand. But having weighed many reloaded and factory rounds, I know there can easily be a grain or more diff between them, so I figured no big deal. Until I pulled the trigger.... Instead of pfffft, I got a BOOOM, and the action cycled and ejected the brass. With what was probably 0.25-0.5 grains of TG powder. I kind of expected a stuck round, but the round was gone for good. So I am asking... how low is too low? What problems arise from ridiculously low powder throws, aside from a stuck round? And with TG, what is the lowest powder charge any of you have used?

Is the spring in your decap die working? On mine (doing .40 as well), I hear a definitive "snap" as the primer is pushed out and the spring thrusts the pin downwards, snapping the primer off the pin, and I hear it hit the metal "clapper" (primer catcher). Thus far, mine is 100% on primers, just loaded 50 last night. Did have a couple of primers missing and trickling powder, but I think that was my hired help not pushing the ram and installing the new primer. Might have to fire that guy...

One would have to develop a small "nipple" to fill the gap between the primer tray and the primer tube on the press. Doable? Yes. But... I use the old Frankford Arsenal vibra-prime (no longer available, IIRC), and at times have to shake and move the primer tray to get the primers to drop. THAT would be hard to do while keeping that nipple fixed on the press. I just fill up two primer tubes (One Dillon, the other the FA that came with it), and they sit beside my press. With 100 in the press, that's 300 primers just rarin' to go...

Another solution to thrown primers: http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?userid={FC69F466-84CD-40FA-9208-01184A19ACD0}&inv=ECC75FF95D9C62F&userid={FC69F466-84CD-40FA-9208-01184A19ACD0}&inv=ECC75FF95D9C62F&albumid={9FCEFD2C-1231-4852-987A-F5ECFCCF0BF5}

I use Bon Ami cleanser. No need to let it run to prevent clumping, it cleans great, and only takes about 30 minutes to clean my brass. Cheap, too, at $1.09 a can, and I only use 1-2 TBSP about every 5 tumbler loads.

What exactly is the problem with your current 650? Have you talked to Dillon? Their customer service is great. Can you post pics of the newtek thingy?

So it appears some of you are using WSP magnums for .40, and some are using small rifle primers for .40 reloading. How do these compare to a standard SPP? Do you adjust powder charges at all? TIA

What I mean is that most load data I have seen for .40 revolves around 4-5" barrels. Doesn't seem to be any data for a shorter barrel. I would guess that a faster powder such as TG or Clays would be preferable to some of the slower burning ones recommended for the .40, given the shorter barrel. I know seating a bullet too far into a casing on the .40 can be very unforgiving from a pressure standpoint, so a longer OAL would help us to err on the caution side of pressure. I also read that the JHPs are more accurate in a 5" barrel, as they don't have the opportunity to expand properly inside the shorter barrels of a compact. I have read that with the H&K octagonal barrel design, lead is not a good idea to reload, so I guess I will be staying with jacketed bullets.

Haven't reloaded in years, but about to get back into it due to the recent purchase of a H&K .40 USPc. I am looking for insight on a good load for this gun. I don't compete at all, just need a good target load for me and the family to load and shoot. I am going to be loading on a RL550b using Dillon dies. I have WSP primers left over from my 9mm loading days. I was considering using MG 165 gr. JHP bullets. Considering the USPc has but a 3.58" barrel, what powder and load do you recommend? The online Hodgdon manual lists only 135/180/200 gr. load data. But I was thinking Clays or Titegroup (but of course, I need to visit the LGS and see what they have available). I'm not trying to hit a minor/major PF like most of you pros here, but just want something nice to shoot and that will fire reliably. Another thing I think may matter, that I can't seem to find much data on, is OAL vs. barrel length vs. powder loads. Your thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for your input!

Been outta the gun business a while now, and was checking some of my favorite links. I used to frequent a site called loadyourown.com, but it seems to be gone now. Does anyone know what happened to them? TIA! F6

Just got mine tonight, and as stated above, I LOVE it! The white and black locking lugs leave a bit to be desired (they are too large in diameter), but it works great without them. I think I will try spraying some polyurethane coating inside the lugs, then sanding them with some fine paper, to try and make the bore diameter smaller. Was able to fill a tube in 40 seconds tonight, WOW! MUCH better than filling the Dillon tubes by hand! One thing that may make yours work better.... take out one battery, and just put a wire in place of it. Basically, running it on one battery slows the vibes, and in my case, sped up the filling process. It was taking a minute to fill at first, but after I slowed it by half, it filled faster. I am happy! F6

Ok, they are... but I guess I meant SA vs STI. Seems to be a lot of STI fans on here, and I had not heard of them until I found this site. No local dealers carry them, none on gun broker.

It seems to me from reading many posts on here and other gun forums that 1911-type pistols seem to dominate the bullseye arena, but I see a lot of STIs & CZs on these forums for open gun, IPSC, etc type of shooting. Why is this? TIA! F6