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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Odd Problem


SmittyFL

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I had a new problem last night. I was shooting my new STI edge when it quit working, I looked down and the hammer was down. But it didn't double. I tried to thumb the hammer back and it wouldn't stay, there was no sear engagement. Then I noticed the trigger was locked up, wouldn't move forward or back.

I took the gun grip safety off and the finger of the sear spring that sits on the sear (left finger) was wedged between the sear and the frame preventing anything from moving.

Upon further inspection the sear spring has a lot of slop (room to wiggle side to side in the grip). I put it back together ensuring the spring was on the sear and put the main spring housing back.

The round that was in the chamber at the time had a VERY light strike. The lightest strike I've ever seen. I shot the rest of the night and had two more light strikes. The gun didn't freeze up anymore. But I don't think it was the ammo. I think somehow the hammer was riding the slide forward because of this sear spring issue. But it didn't lock up like it did the first time.

Any ideas? Has anyone experienced problems with STI's sear spring? I've talked to other people with different problems recently with STI's, I wonder if their quality control is slipping. I haven't compared the sear spring with others yet, but I'm willing to bet it is not wide enough. There was way too much play in the grip.

This is a link to STI's site with a pic of the sear spring I have.

http://www.stiguns.com/cgi-bin/miva?Mercha...tegory_Code=SPR

Thanks for the help.

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Had a similar problem with hammer follow , after 2 hours of tinkering with sear leaf spring etc, it turned out to be the over travel screw in the trigger.

Screw it in till the gun just wont fire then back it out 3/4 to full turn.

Dont know if this will help, good luck.

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I'll check the over travel although I don't think that is the problem.

Any of you builders or backroom gunsmiths out there, what, if any, is the advantage to STI's sear spring? It tapers down then widens back out at the sear contact point, as opposed to one that is the same width the whole length of the finger. I imagine it has less tension and maybe easier to set light. Is that right? Or is there something else?

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