150gr Billy LSWC's and VV320?

[sobrbiker883]

Anyone shoot Billy Bullets? I am interested particularly in the 150gr LSWC's (I just got 1K). I'm fairly new to pistol comp AND pistol reloading.

I shoot local steel matches (no PF) locally with a P16-40. I found I didn't know much when I loaded the first batch short and had quite a few seize up at last night's match.

I'm thinking of VV320 around 5gr, but am unsure of OAL.......

I've read (and learned) alot using the search, but not too many posts with info on the Billy Bullets. Rudy's local so the source is great.

Thanks in advance.

[photog]

I don't have any expeiernce with VV powders, so I won't make any recomendations other than this:

FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURE'S LOAD DATA!!

Yes I was yelling. The combo of bullet/powder/OAL is critical, and you must have the tools to follow the recipe. If you don't have a set of calipers, and a case gauge for each caliber you are reloading, go buy them right now and don't reload any more till you get them.

In a nutshell, if you make the load too short, you are raising pressures inside the case. If you reload a weakened case, that case could rupture due to this over pressure and KB your gun (KB means KABOOM!) NEVER SHOOT ROUNDS THAT ARE TOO SHORT! That seizing was actually you welding the case to your barrel due to over pressure. You also need to buy a bullet puller so you can redo those too short rounds. Please don't shoot those reloads at all.

The basic step to reloading for pistols:

1. Sort your brass - cull the rejects.

2. Clean your brass - there are several methods.

3. Size and decap - go get a EGW U-die and be happy.

4. Install new primer - buy in bulk based on the load recipe AND your presses manufactures recommendation (Lee's MUST use CCI or Win Primers).

5. Drop powder/flare case - Start 10% UNDER max load OR whatever the STARTING load is per your recipe - Do NOT go LESS either! Follow the recipe. Flair the case only enough to be able to get the bullet in.

6. Seat bullet - Do not go less than the OAL in the recipe, but you can go LONGER than the Min OAL - but you loose pressure the longer you go. Find what your gun will feed best but it must be between the Min OAL for the recipe and the MAX OAL for the caliber.

7. Crimp (optional)- The Lee Factory Crimp die works magic for some people, other hate it (or think it unnecessary). I use it, it works for me. Set it for a light crimp.

8. Gauge each round - those that pass are your match rounds, those that don't gauge go to the next test.

9. Barrel test those that failed the gauge. If they chamber in your barrel, they are practice rounds. If they don't chamber find out why - Glock bulge, wrinkles, split case are usual causes. If they LOOK good but won't chamber, reset your sizing die (or there is something really wrong like a collapsed case due to too much crimp).

If you are not willing or able to follow the recipe in its entirety, then you run the risk of serious injury/death to you and your gun and your neighbors on the firing line. Sorry to beat this over your head, but I would hate to have you ruin your hand/eyes due to a rookie mistake (and we all make them). Don't make up a recipe, just follow what the mfg deems safe.

To answer your particular question:

The reloading data is not printed for your load on the VV website or in my load book, so the smart thing is to find one that IS printed. I can find a load for a 155gr lead bullet using Bullseye. You can safely use a (slightly) LIGHTER bullet for a heavier bullets recipe, but not the other way around. (but your lighter bullet may not give the performance you are seeking - follow the load data). My load book shows a starting load of 4.6gr (.49cc) of Bullseye, at Min OAL of 1.125in. You can go Longer if you want to lower the pressure, but never shorter OAL. That is rated to 982fps. I found no loads for light lead bullets using N320. That's an indication that the load is not a good performer and/or has pressure issues.

BTW, welcome to the reloading world! Its a great hobby and will provide you with great rewards, if you do it safely. I hope that I don't sound to harsh, but you really must follow the published load data until you have a chrony, and a barrel/gun that you don't mind blowing up

Edited October 9, 2008 by photog

[sobrbiker883]

Thank you for your thoughtful reply. I appreciate the info (and the time it took to type in) and it is good info for ANY reloader. I'm an avid rifleman and reload quite a bit, so I do understand the correlation between seating depth and pressure, and have looked at all the printed and online matter I can find on the VV320/150 SWC combination I am using (which hasn't been much). I have a case guage, calipers, etc, I am using CCI primers due to having bought a Loadmaster, and have already been succesful using 135gr Raniers with my Para, but that was with W231 that I found to be a bit on the dirty side with the plated bullets and awfully "flashy" as our local steel matches are night shoots by the time I get through.

I loaded a little longer (1.13") than spec, at a starting load for a slightly heavier bullet per VV's manual, but with my first go around with these bullets I am obviously too short as I got to practice quite a few clearance drills......

I must say that I need to work on that aspect of my game, as I was caught by surprise and cosciously thinking through clearing the gun killed my recovery time. The shorties I have left will get mixed in with other practice rounds to work to that end.

I posted here as I thought it would be the best chance of finding someone that has experience with Billy Bullets' 150 gr pill in a Para as far as the seating depth they like. I have a friend with a couple S_I's but I'm figuring his have way different freebore than a factory Para, so I don't want to try too long an OAL.

[Downrange58]

I don't have any expeiernce with VV powders, so I won't make any recomendations other than this:

FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURE'S LOAD DATA!!

Yes I was yelling. The combo of bullet/powder/OAL is critical, and you must have the tools to follow the recipe. If you don't have a set of calipers, and a case gauge for each caliber you are reloading, go buy them right now and don't reload any more till you get them.

In a nutshell, if you make the load too short, you are raising pressures inside the case. If you reload a weakened case, that case could rupture due to this over pressure and KB your gun (KB means KABOOM!) NEVER SHOOT ROUNDS THAT ARE TOO SHORT! That seizing was actually you welding the case to your barrel due to over pressure. You also need to buy a bullet puller so you can redo those too short rounds. Please don't shoot those reloads at all.

The basic step to reloading for pistols:

1. Sort your brass - cull the rejects.

2. Clean your brass - there are several methods.

3. Size and decap - go get a EGW U-die and be happy.

4. Install new primer - buy in bulk based on the load recipe AND your presses manufactures recommendation (Lee's MUST use CCI or Win Primers).

5. Drop powder/flare case - Start 10% UNDER max load OR whatever the STARTING load is per your recipe - Do NOT go LESS either! Follow the recipe. Flair the case only enough to be able to get the bullet in.

6. Seat bullet - Do not go less than the OAL in the recipe, but you can go LONGER than the Min OAL - but you loose pressure the longer you go. Find what your gun will feed best but it must be between the Min OAL for the recipe and the MAX OAL for the caliber.

7. Crimp (optional)- The Lee Factory Crimp die works magic for some people, other hate it (or think it unnecessary). I use it, it works for me. Set it for a light crimp.

8. Gauge each round - those that pass are your match rounds, those that don't gauge go to the next test.

9. Barrel test those that failed the gauge. If they chamber in your barrel, they are practice rounds. If they don't chamber find out why - Glock bulge, wrinkles, split case are usual causes. If they LOOK good but won't chamber, reset your sizing die (or there is something really wrong like a collapsed case due to too much crimp).

If you are not willing or able to follow the recipe in its entirety, then you run the risk of serious injury/death to you and your gun and your neighbors on the firing line. Sorry to beat this over your head, but I would hate to have you ruin your hand/eyes due to a rookie mistake (and we all make them). Don't make up a recipe, just follow what the mfg deems safe.

To answer your particular question:

The reloading data is not printed for your load on the VV website or in my load book, so the smart thing is to find one that IS printed. I can find a load for a 155gr lead bullet using Bullseye. You can safely use a (slightly) LIGHTER bullet for a heavier bullets recipe, but not the other way around. (but your lighter bullet may not give the performance you are seeking - follow the load data). My load book shows a starting load of 4.6gr (.49cc) of Bullseye, at Min OAL of 1.125in. You can go Longer if you want to lower the pressure, but never shorter OAL. That is rated to 982fps. I found no loads for light lead bullets using N320. That's an indication that the load is not a good performer and/or has pressure issues.

BTW, welcome to the reloading world! Its a great hobby and will provide you with great rewards, if you do it safely. I hope that I don't sound to harsh, but you really must follow the published load data until you have a chrony, and a barrel/gun that you don't mind blowing up

Photog, two years later and your advice is still helpful for a newbie reloader such as myself. I have copied and pasted into my safety notes! Cheers, Kent