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38spcl vs 38spcl +p


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What is the difference if any from the 38spcl case to 38spcl+p case?

I would like to duplicate the speer 125gr gold dot +p defensive round for my S&W 640 2 1/8" barrel.

I will be using Win231 powder what powder weight can you reconmmend for this round?

I'm still new to reloading, and i know you people have a lot of tried and true experience in this field.

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From the Staline Brass website.

38 SPL+P has no difference from the standard 38 SPL, other than headstamp designation for load segregation. Due to standard case design, will handle +P pressures with no problems.

Just remember YMMV.

Bruce

Edited by bruce282
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Sometimes,not always,you'll run into +P cases that are a little thicker.But than again,some of the standard P can be thicker too.Bottem line,no worries mon( unless its causing you chambering problems).-Mike

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What is the difference if any from the 38spcl case to 38spcl+p case?

I would like to duplicate the speer 125gr gold dot +p defensive round for my S&W 640 2 1/8" barrel.

I will be using Win231 powder what powder weight can you reconmmend for this round?

I'm still new to reloading, and i know you people have a lot of tried and true experience in this field.

Hi & welcome tacdriver. ABove posts answer the Q.

You mentioned that you are new to reloading. .38 special is a GREAT place to start, as it is very safe to reload. Why?

-The .38 is so old that is started out as a black powder cartridge. As a result, there are some REALLY old guns chambered in .38 - and the reloading companies know that their data could possibly be used with some old guns. As a result, the data is conservative. Follow the book or the website and you will be fine in the knowledge that there is a wide safety margin for the .38 special.

Another advantage to starting with .38 Special is that revolvers are not subject to "bullet set-back" - which can happen with semi-autos.

Once you start reloading ammo for semi-autos, check back with us w/ any questions.

Regards,

C.

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What is the difference if any from the 38spcl case to 38spcl+p case?

I'm still new to reloading, and i know you people have a lot of tried and true experience in this field.

Hi & welcome tacdriver. ABove posts answer the Q.

Another advantage to starting with .38 Special is that revolvers are not subject to "bullet set-back" - which can happen with semi-autos.

Regards,

C.

But revolver bullets can be subject to working forward out of the case under recoil if your crimp isn't sufficient, esp. w/+P.

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What is the difference if any from the 38spcl case to 38spcl+p case?

I'm still new to reloading, and i know you people have a lot of tried and true experience in this field.

Hi & welcome tacdriver. ABove posts answer the Q.

Another advantage to starting with .38 Special is that revolvers are not subject to "bullet set-back" - which can happen with semi-autos.

Regards,

C.

But revolver bullets can be subject to working forward out of the case under recoil if your crimp isn't sufficient, esp. w/+P.

Thanks for the welcome I'm using the Lee classic turret press with the Lee factory crimp die. I seat and crimp in seperate stations.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I chronographed my 38spl +p rounds today.

Results:

caliber - 38spl +P

weapon - S&W 640 .357/.38 2 1/8" Barrel

Bullet - Speer 125gr. GoldDot

Powder - 5.8gr. Hodgdon Universal Clays

Primer - WSP

Case - Win 38spl Brass (once fired)

OAL - 1.440

Avg. Vel. - 819fps - ES - 79.07 - SD - 40.33

Accuracy - Very Good

Recoil - Managable

Comments:

No flattened primers or any other pressure signs, powder burned complete and clean.

Thanks for all of your help my only hope is to be able to return the favor someday.

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