Timing How Fast Do You Like

[cking]

I got this new s&w in and it had it extractor star kinda chewed up, the factory had cut the outside edges of the star, plus it was double threaded for about 5 turns.

So I put in a new extractor, and then the hand binds just as it is finishing its rotation. Now I see why the other extractor had been narrowed up.

So I look in my manuals and it says if all the cylinders bind fit the hand. If one cylinder binds fit the star. So I take a little bit off the inside of the hand . Then four cylinders are fine and two bind. So a little off those two edges on the star.

Now everything is working nice and smooth. I decide to change triggers from stock ones to one of the MIM chrome jobbies. Then it turns out I got late timing on all the cylinders.

Put the orginal trigger back in and timing is OK on all holes but is still pretty late but they all catch when you put drag on the cylinders.

So do you guys stretch your hand by peening, or do you buy Powers oversize hand and start trimming? How far before double action letoff should the cylinder lock, is sooner better?

I see it says tools steel also, should I Casenite it?

Edited May 30, 2006 by cking

[Waltermitty]

I got this new s&w in and it had it extractor star kinda chewed up, the factory had cut the outside edges of the star, plus it was double threaded for about 5 turns.

So I put in a new extractor, and then the hand binds just as it is finishing its rotation. Now I see why the other extractor had been narrowed up.

So I look in my manuals and it says if all the cylinders bind fit the hand. If one cylinder binds fit the star. So I take a little bit off the inside of the hand . Then four cylinders are fine and two bind. So a little off those two edges on the star.

Now everything is working nice and smooth. I decide to change triggers from stock ones to one of the MIM chrome jobbies. Then it turns out I got late timing on all the cylinders.

Put the orginal trigger back in and timing is OK on all holes but is still pretty late but they all catch when you put drag on the cylinders.

So do you guys stretch your hand by peening, or do you buy Powers oversize hand and start trimming? How far before double action letoff should the cylinder lock, is sooner better?

I see it says tools steel also, should I Casenite it?

Repeat disclaimer squared.

Sounds like you kinda got your sequence out of order for parts replacements. If it was mine I'd put the stock trigger back in (if it is actually ok) and run it until something wore out that required retiming the gun. I don't know which manual you've got there, but it oughta say something like fitting the hand to the star should be the last step; not first step.

Somebody that actually knows should chime in, but I can't imagine peening the hand and getting an acceptable finish on all of the surfaces that have to interface with the rest of the gun. If you insist on changing the trigger now, your two choices are to start with a new star or a new hand or possibly both.

Keep in mind, if you *then* decide to change the hammer, you may be starting all over again. Timing a revolver from scratch isn't a handyman's job. With the part changes and modifications you've described so far you may already be past the point of no return. Consider having a qualified revolver smith take a look at it in any case; it could save you a buttload of grief.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

So do you guys stretch your hand by peening, or do you buy Powers oversize hand and start trimming? How far before double action letoff should the cylinder lock, is sooner better?

I see it says tools steel also, should I Casenite it?

Hands affect timing because of thickness not length. Don't know what manual you are using, but I have never heard of peening a hand. I mic them and use the appropriate one. Then file the ratchets to make it all work.

Many times, you can find one hand that works for all positions. Remember, DCU should be checked with a cylinder loaded with dummy rounds and on a bench to replicate a loaded revolver.

Regards,

[cking]

My hand fits the slot nicely.

I was amazed that change of triggers threw me into a late timed gun. They are both brand new S&W triggers.

I read some more and both manuals say that cylinder stop should latch just before DA letoff or SA letoff.

Now I was thinking that stopping a spinning cylinder just before release would wobble the gun. Seems like you would want it to happen earlier so you had time to settle the gun.

Of course maybe it makes no difference. But that is reason people want TI cylinders it to lighten the spinning mass.