22 conversion open rimfire setup?

[ksf141]

Im considering building an open gun for rimfire steel shooting using a 1911 22 conversion. Im wondering what setups you guys are using and having RELIABLE success with?

I have a Marvel Unit 1 which is very accurate but I have heard these can be unreliable in a speed shooting scenario and that perhaps the tactical solutions 2211 conversion is a better bet for steel.

Those who are using a set up like this, do you prefer your red dot mounted to the frame or using the scope mount on top of the conversion unit?

Thanks in advance for any feedback. I understand the biggest variable is likely the magazines and if they run reliably, the gun will run...

[zzt]

If your unit 1 is properly lubed and you shoot good ammo through it, it will not disappoint. There are better comps out there than the one Marvel Precision sells, but you have to have them custom made unless you ordered the threaded barrel. MaddMax Tactical will make you a custom comp from one of his designs or yours. I'm not a big fan of the TacSol conversion because of the short barrel. Also, the couple I see at the club do not seem to be as accurate as the Marvel's. If you want one, Brownell's has one for cheap.

If a unit 1, the dot goes on the rail. There is zero reason to mount to the frame unless the entire slide reciprocates. If using the unit 1 or the Nelson Custom or Marvel Pro, make sure you change out the recoil spring if you are going to me using hi-speed ammo. The unit 1 comes set up for standard velocity ammo. Hi-speed causes problems if you don't change the springs.

Mags are the next issue. The GSG mags the unit 1 uses can be problematic, depending on how high your mag catch holds the mags. A much better bet is the new Brownell's 1911 22lr mag. It's polymer, cheap, works with anything I've tried it in and holds the slide open after the last round. It is easy to disassemble and clean and the extension allows you to seat it in magwells easily.

Comps: get one made for the ammo you are going to shoot. If you shoot standard velocity with anything, you'll have no problems, but you have to get a comp designed for standard and coated to help with lead removal. If you want to stay with hi-speed, avoid the junk. You will have extraction problems with stuff like Federal American Eagle or Champion. The Federal Automatch will work, but it is dirty and will foul the comp with soot and lead in nothing flat.

You really want to use copper clad bullets in hi-speed ammo. I'm not a fan of Mini-Mags because of the extreme velocity variation. Aquila hi-speed works.

If you build your own frame, consider not putting an ejector in it. It isn't needed. If you want to fill the holes, use a thin one for a 45, not 9mm. The number one cause of problems running unit 1 type conversions is rubbing on the ejector. Second, make sure your disconnector is the ball head type. If it it too sharp, or the sear spring putts too much pressure on it, or your mainspring is too strong, it will cause a problem.

I love the conversion units, but I currently use a highly customized Buckmark open gun. I prefer that to Ruger based open gun.

If you want to stay with the 1911 form factor, you might also consider a GSG 1911. There are many of them at my club and they just run and run. You can get tricked out, lightened slides and all the other upgrade stuff at CW Accessories. As a matter of fact. Chris will build you a custom upgraded open gun for the price of parts. He is even making his own barrels for them (or will be shortly). Chris will also build you a complete custom upper for your frame if you wish. The dot will be slide mounted on a lightened slide. Accuracy will be slightly worse than a unit 1 with match chamber, but at least it will feed all but the real junk.

Edited December 30, 2015 by zzt

[ksf141]

Thanks for all of that feedback. Im staying away from the factor 1911 .22s for now, have seen them fail/jam to often. For the same money, my ruger mk guns will run all day everyday and are more accurate. I just have a hankering for some reason to build a 1911 style 22 race gun using a conversion. Im starting to think the conversion kit is the easier part and that getting or building the 1911 frame is going to be the harder/more expensive part. Ive been searching for months for someone selling a "built" single stack frame with good parts (perhaps an old STI or caspian frame) from an old race gun that I could use as a dedicated lower. I hate to buy a $300 RIA or similar lower receiver and then need to replace all the parts to get a good trigger etc. Im not adept enough to build a 1911 frame myself and dont want to pay the price for a full custom 1911 lower frame build....

Ive been using several custom ruger mk's in steel competition for the last few years and they run like raped apes on mini mags so I really have no reason to change it up for competition but do like the idea of having one on the 1911 platform that takes me back to my USPSA days of running an open gun :-)

[zzt]

Actually, building a frame yourself can be quite easy as long as you don't care if it looks like a $5000 custom 1911. You can buy really really good drop-in parts and a preset trigger group and you are good to go.

So you don't have to finish the gun (unless you want to), start with a JEM Enterprises 1911 frame in SS and a JEM slide in SS. Then buy the JEM Mainspring housing and Grip Safety. He and EGW (they make them for him) sells versions that are already .250" radius on the GS and the MSH should fit fine with no sanding. You may have to sand or file a couple of thousandths off the top of the MSH to get the GS to fit. Jim likes them tight. The GS is so close a fit that you can let it go, or just use an emery strip to blend it by hand. That leaves trigger and fire control group to do, except for some small, easy items. Cylinder and Slide and Brazos custom sell already finished and matched trigger groups. Most of the time they just drop in and work. The only time they don't is if the frame is out of spec. JEM's are great. Now you need a safety. If you go with C&S, buy a C&S safety. It should fit with nothing required.

Another thing you could consider is just going to your local gunsmith that knows 1911s. They can order all the parts for you. You'll pay the same price, but they get at least a 15% discount, so they would be happy to do it for you. If you order all drop in parts, they will more than likely assemble it for you and do any minor fitting for a very small fee. The only thing you are worried about on a frame for a conversion is a good light trigger pull and safe function. Everything else will be taken care of by the conversion unit. A gunsmith near me does just that. Also, he sells a trigger kit designed by a guy up in Maine. It is specifically designed for a 22 conversion frame. It is drop in and set for a clean 2lb pull. However, it uses specialized components and cannot be use if you later put a 45 slide on the frame. If memory serves, the kit is $185.

[ksf141]

Actually, building a frame yourself can be quite easy as long as you don't care if it looks like a $5000 custom 1911. You can buy really really good drop-in parts and a preset trigger group and you are good to go.

So you don't have to finish the gun (unless you want to), start with a JEM Enterprises 1911 frame in SS and a JEM slide in SS. Then buy the JEM Mainspring housing and Grip Safety. He and EGW (they make them for him) sells versions that are already .250" radius on the GS and the MSH should fit fine with no sanding. You may have to sand or file a couple of thousandths off the top of the MSH to get the GS to fit. Jim likes them tight. The GS is so close a fit that you can let it go, or just use an emery strip to blend it by hand. That leaves trigger and fire control group to do, except for some small, easy items. Cylinder and Slide and Brazos custom sell already finished and matched trigger groups. Most of the time they just drop in and work. The only time they don't is if the frame is out of spec. JEM's are great. Now you need a safety. If you go with C&S, buy a C&S safety. It should fit with nothing required.

Another thing you could consider is just going to your local gunsmith that knows 1911s. They can order all the parts for you. You'll pay the same price, but they get at least a 15% discount, so they would be happy to do it for you. If you order all drop in parts, they will more than likely assemble it for you and do any minor fitting for a very small fee. The only thing you are worried about on a frame for a conversion is a good light trigger pull and safe function. Everything else will be taken care of by the conversion unit. A gunsmith near me does just that. Also, he sells a trigger kit designed by a guy up in Maine. It is specifically designed for a 22 conversion frame. It is drop in and set for a clean 2lb pull. However, it uses specialized components and cannot be use if you later put a 45 slide on the frame. If memory serves, the kit is $185.

Thanks so much for this information. I see you are located in Southeast PA, I am as well, located in Delaware county PA. Im interested to learn more about the gunsmith you mentioned that might be a a good option to just build a 1911 frame for me? I do not care one bit about looks, just as you mentioned I only want safe function and a competition worthy trigger pull. Thanks again for the great feedback.