Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Auto 300 blackout cutter


jmorris

Recommended Posts

Ha! That's been on my to-do list for a month now, but implemented slightly different (more compact). Instead of the slide delivery system, mount a cylinder with 2 slots (to hold the cases) on a motor. Will make your footprint a LOT smaller.

That is an interesting concept, it won't have the same dwell time as the cases are dropping into or out of the holder but will have less parts. The drill press is the largest part by far.

Be sure to post some photos when you get yours together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't use a drill press either, it was just what I had handy to try out the concept that evening. There would be quite a bit more work to refine the design for a consumer product and it would likely cost more than a $39 harbor freight drill press.

With your idea is the case going to go into the slot from the side like a Giraud annealer or is it going to drop into the slot length wise?

The reason I made it like I did was so there was a dwell into the hole so a regular Dillon collator could be used (everyone has at least one pf them). Feeding them from the side there is more than an inch less drop (just the diameter of the case), so it would be faster going in; however, now you have to stack the cases by hand laying down into the "feeder"/"V" funnel.

Of course you could slow the rotating drum down enough for the case to be able to fall all the way in but you loose the speed. The one above is slow at both ends of the stroke and fast in the center. Not that it really matters on a machine that you don't have to man.

Edited by jmorris
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would drop in length wise, just like a standard case drops in the Dillons.

I'm not very good with MS Paint, but I hope this illustrates it somewhat better.

post-48714-0-36650800-1411234864_thumb.j

Case drops in and is retained by a wire to keep it from falling off the "shelf slot." Motor rotates case around to be cut. After cutting, an ejection wire, which follows the groove cut half way up the cylinder ejects case from machine. Whole machine can be made on a footprint of about 6" x 12", case feeder not including.

Yours is cutting about 48/minute (2880/60). With 2 slots in the cylinder, I'd need a 25 RPM gear motor for mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The "dwell" I was talking about is the fact with a crank/connecting rod set up the shuttle slows, comes to a complete stop, then speeds back up at each end of the stroke. This allows more time for the case to drop into and out of the shuttle. Speed inches per second is fastest in the middle and is zero at both ends.

http://www.animatedengines.com/locomotive.html

Velocity with your idea would be constant but could be made to work. Actually similar to what I was going to build before I thought of the one above. It would have been more like a ken light annealing machine though.

You wouldn't need an ejection wire if you had your slots machined all the way through and the bottom of the case landed on a "D" shaped platform below the cylinder (like holding a single action revolver muzzle up, case would go around and fall out when no longer supported). Drop in on one side, go around getting cut and fall out the bottom where the flat side is. Having it go slow enough for the case to drop in would be the only trick at that point. Unless you built a "flying" dropper that followed the cylinder around the arch a bithis org of like the dropper on a 650. A cam and the case comes in following the arch formed by the radius of the pivot pin. For that matter instead of slots they could just be drilled holes turned at the top where the blade will be and above so the spoil can fall out.

Edited by jmorris
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This was a setup similar I built to cull inverted bullets for the first bullet collator I built and later adjusted it to cull .380 from 9mm. It uses constant speed but I don't know if it would work at that speed with long cases.

http://vid121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/brass/9mm380.mp4

The motor might also need to be a bit more powerfull because it doesn't have the mechanical advantage of the crank.

I am sure there is a better "mouse trap" to be built but I just used what I had that wasn't already bolted to something else and could adjust the speed. Turned out to be a broken power window motor out of an '82 Ford F150 (rule #1, never throw anything away, it's only junk until you can find a use for it).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, it's on my list of things to make... But for now, my next immediate need is an annealer. Making a Ballistic Edge copy to use a Dillon collator should be easy enough.

I built my first one a little over 5 years ago, not a lot to it. Hard part for most (that don't have CNC equipment) is the "blade".

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81049&hl=%2Bfinished+%2Bthe+%2Bauto+%2Bannealer#entry987410

Hundreds of them have been built using the blades/drawings I make, in many different variations. A pretty good example of the range is in this thread.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?48611-finished-the-auto-annealer-today

Not sure why the photos don't apear in the BE link but the link at the top of the first post goes to the PB album or they work at CB.

In anycase this is how it feeds cases, using the same parts that the 650 uses to convert to different case lengths/diameters.

Case feed video.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/th_an1.mp4

DSC01810.jpg

Edited by jmorris
Link to comment
Share on other sites

While all of mine use an aluminum top plate it is not needed as a heat sink. If you are properly annealing, you can hold the case right after it exits the flame.

Like in this video

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/th_nottoohot.mp4

No need for water either, again if done correctly.

Edited by jmorris
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...