jayhkr Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Ok, so I FINALLY got my last major component today....1# of Titegroup ($29.00). I've been waiting to order from Brian until I was able to get all the major components needed just because I didn't want to have the machine and not be able to do anything with it. So tomorrow I will be calling Brian to put my order in for the SDB, Eliminator Scale, Case gage, and maybe the 10pk of decapping pins all for 9mm. Hopefully the shipping on it won't take to terribly long (I live in Kansas). So down to a few questions, I've read many manuals, data graphs, and read multiple forums. My main question is OAL. I have the Cabela's digital caliper and there is a small notch by the main slide ruler. Maybe everyone's has this, but it is notched in about 1/16 or 1/8" in from the main caliper part itself. It kind of looks like the perfect place to put the full bullet itself in actually. Where do you measure from, the tip or the "Base" of the caliper? As far as OAL goes, what should I be looking for with my 9mm. I have the SNSCasting.com 124gr plated bullet so basically I should be using LRN data correct? I was thinking of starting my loading at 3.5g of titegroup and do 20 of 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8 and maybe 3.9 to see what will work best in both my Glock and M&P Shield. Any ideas on that thought? These rounds are mainly for plinking, no competition needs. I think I'm all but ready to start this new and fascinating hobby/journey! Nervous, excited, and ready to see the difference between store bought and handmade ammo! According to the online calculator I should be loading at 12.8 cents a round. This is after shipping/taxes and everything. So my components are: 1# Titegroup Powder 5k CCI 500 Primers 1k SNS Casting Plated 124gr Bullets Mixed/Range Brass OH....one more question. I need to also pickup a bottle of One Shot lube. What I've read is put a handful in a ziplock baggie, aerosol 2-3 squirts in there of One Shot, zip up the bag and mix around for a few seconds, open bag, dump brass in a bin and they are ready to go right from there. No need to re-tumble or wipe off, correct? I think I've covered everything that I can think of. All of you guys have been great! I can't say thank you enough for the awesome help everyone here has given me! Of all the websites that have reloading sections in them...this one is HANDS DOWN the very best!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeeZer Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) OAL is measured from top of the bullet to bottom of case with calipers. Depending on your gun (barrel) and bullet profile, you may need to load 'shorter' than in any manual; Glock and M&P would allow quite generous OAL. It is a VERY good idea to find out what your barrel/bullet combo allow as for 'shortest' OAL; start here: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=60696.msg397298#msg397298 One Shot Case Lube works very well and I personally use it even thou I got carbide dies. Makes whole process maaaaaach smoother. But, I spray brass in a bucket, as I do it to every 3-5K cases at a time. No need to wipe lube down. Another alternative is to use Silicone spray (WD40 Specialist or so). With your powder and bullet/gun combo you are looking at 3.6-4.0gr powder charge per round. You can go with 0.2gr increment as opposed to 0.1gr. Also, if you are serious about shooting and reloading, you'll need to chronograph your ammo to figure out bullet velocity when it leaves barrel. my 0.02 - 1# of powder is just for testing; TiteGroup is very good powder (thou I like Clays better) and if I were you I'd buy at least an 8lb jug. Edited February 19, 2014 by CeeZer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prebaned Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Settled on these results 124gr plated fp COAL 1.078 4.0gr Titegroup 1067fps av 10 shot string with a SD of 15.8 out of a G17 4.5 inch barrel. Runs fine in the Glock and Smith 5906 No FTF or FTE nice and soft and cycles fine. Your COAL will be determined best by your pistol barrel plunk/spin test and magazine. I find the Dillon CL to be great and goes a long ways. Cases on a terry cloth towel with a pump or two and roll with my hand a few seconds does the trick. I tumble off the lube after rounds are reloaded as it leaves a slight sticky feeling on the cases attracting carbon and gunk, an option some choose not to take. As much as I resisted I did get a Chrony because I was just shooting "blind" without one and couldn't take it any longer. You should consider a Chrony too. Good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayhkr Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 Thanks CeeZer! I would get a Chronograph, however I shoot indoors and that makes it a little tough. I haven't "gotten in good" with the owners yet but I'm sure the more I'm there the more I'll talk with them and maybe ask them if they would allow me to set one up every now and then for use when the range isn't very busy. I go to 2 different ranges so I have choices. I went with the 1# just to be sure that I would like the powder....no need in spending $200 for a bunch if I don't like the first results! Of course right now beggars can't be choosers. I'll have to post a picture of what I'm talking about on my calipers to show you the notch in them. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayhkr Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 Now the hard part, waiting for that beautiful big blue machine to arrive from Mr. Enos! I honestly don't know who's more excited me or my wife! She really loves her new M&P Shield and she can't wait to have a bunch of ammo for it.....lol she surpries me everyday still! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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