300RUM1 Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 (edited) Hi, First post for me, I've been doing quite a bit of reading. I'm trying to remove the latch pin to change the sping as part of the Briley kit for my browning gold. I have no issues getting the clip out but can't seem to get the pin to move at all. I've try up and down moving the latch in hopes to remove some pressure. It will move a fraction but doesn't freely come out like the other pins. Any tips or suggestions? Thanks Wayne Edited August 23, 2012 by 300RUM1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caspian guy Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 (edited) Hmm... If you removed the clip in the slot in the reciever that retains the pin, I always pushed the pin out the bottom of the reciever by sticking a small allen wrench or punch down through the small hole at the bottom of the ejection port that lines up with the top of the pin. Edited August 24, 2012 by caspian guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R. Batt Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 I've always done the same as Caspian Guy. Once the clip is removed from the pin it should be easy to remove by pushing the pin down from the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300RUM1 Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Thanks guys. I'll give it another try. I was using a stiff piece of wire to push down from the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R. Batt Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 I forgot to mention that I use a bent paper clip or small allen wrench to push the clip in the slot sideways to remove it. To put it back on when you are finished you just drop it into the slot and push it back the other way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300RUM1 Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 I hear you there. It must have taken me 20 minutes to get back in. I had a pair of tweezers and thing was all over my work bench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R. Batt Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 I think I spent about two hours trying to do it with tweezers, a punch, pliers, and anything else I could find. It was embarrassing how long it took brfore I finally figured it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300RUM1 Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 We'll I finally got it to run right. I've spent a couple weeks adjusting, readjusting, polishing, cutting springs, etc. To date I have the Briley tube, 3 1/2 recoil spring, the latch spring Briley sent, and I cut the mag spring Briley sent as Ah6IP stated in a post quite some time ago. There's a lot of good info here, you just have to do some searching. I guess if I wasn't such a big Browning fan I would have went a different route. I did have to use the win 1 1/8oz 1300fps ammo though. I tried for 2 weeks to shoot Fed 1 1/8 1145 shells but I just couldn't get it to cycle correctly every time. I still think it should do it, but that's just me. It's still a work in progress so I'm sure I'm missing something. Thanks for all your help, I'm sure I'll have more questions as this moves along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caspian guy Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 (edited) Which piston do you have in the gun? If you don't have a sporting clays piston, installing one should help you shoot lighter loads. Also I had the best luck with remington gun club shells. Edited September 3, 2012 by caspian guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300RUM1 Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 It's the standard. The gun is a 3" stalker. Will it function correctly with the sporting clays piston and the heavy 3 1/2 recoil spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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