Moly Bullets Leading Badly

[noylj]

Precision Bullets have never leaded in any of my guns and I have never used any exotic die. I have no idea why people need special dies.

The only important dies are:

1) a seating die that at least minimally matches the nose/ogive profile and

2) a separate taper crimp die.

When I finally get around to clean them, I can see streaks of something. I hooked up the Foul-Out III the first time and it tells me the barrel is clean (no lead). Since the accuracy is still excellent, I don't worry about it. However, when I first saw it, I ran a little Chore-Boy on a brass brush with Hoppe's #9. All came out clean as a whistle (if whistle are clean). Took about 15 shots to foul the barrel and get back to shooting correctly.

I would recommend everyone get a Foul-Out III and a Chore-Boy copper scrub pad.

If, as was stated at the start, the OP is getting lead, then, ipso facto, something has damaged the Moly-Kote and that happens during bullet seating or over-crimping (or trying to do both at the same time).

My only complaint is that the Precision Bullets and some of the better cast bullets are approaching the cost of jacketed.

Also, I still think a lot of the posters are a lot more worried about some little puff of smoke and getting their guns dirty than they are the accuracy of their loads. This is fine for them, but to base your recommendations on things that are of only tertiary importance to most shooters needs to be made clear.

As in, TiteGroup burns really hot, but I still like it because it meters well or because there is no smoke or because it doesn't leave as much ash on my gun. Make clear what your criteria are.

For me, I just haven't found a load in 9mm, .38Super, 9x21, .40S&W, and .45ACP using N310, TiteGroup, Solo1000, Clays, or WSD that meets my only real criteria—group size on target. However, I always make that known in my recommendations. I am about ready to use them as fertilizer. Based on my tests, I agree with Pecision that you can't roll crimp them, you can't iron out case bulges with a Lee FCD and you can't use TiteGroup. Also, as they say, they have several employees that are happily using TiteGroup. That means either their guns don't react to it like mine or they aren't trying for groups under 2" at 25 yards.

Edited November 15, 2010 by noylj

[austin rick]

I have an all Stainless Kimber, tried the vinegar and peroxide and found out too late the only thing not stainless was the barrel. Yes, it was badly damaged. You could see the the original circular tool marks. Still shoots fine, but could never sell it without replacing the barrel.

Since then, I rarely clean the barrel on it or my STI unless its a quick patch of chore boy to remove the chunks. Both guns seem to shoot fine with the moly in 'em. Using 4.5g N320 with 185's.