new match

[mrfreeze]

Hello I am new to EAA/Tanfoglio and just purchased a match in 10mm.

I was cleaning the factory "goop" from it and getting ready to go soot it.

I noticed the trigger seems to have quite a bit of lateral play. Is this fairly normal for the breed?

Second I have seen a many people switch to a heavier recoil spring right away. I am on the fence with this idea.

Seems like a little heavier or a wolf replacement might do the job without over stressing things in the forward end.

Oh and perhaps one of the conefit guiderods

This will not be a competition pistol btw but I do plan to shoot full house loads through it.

Thanks

[JJH]

The lateral play seems to be a pretty common complaint. As for the recoil spring, by all means change it out. The Witness in 10mm is horribly undersprung in 10. You say you will be running full house loads, do you mean handloads, or factory ammo? All ammo manufacturers except CorBon run WELL below SAAMI spec's and are essentially 40S&W+p. If you are going to be loading full pop 10mm, I've heard from more than one person a Sprinco mainspring, and a recoil buff are really your best bet, along with some severe shortening of the ejector

Edited September 3, 2010 by JJH

[mrfreeze]

The lateral play seems to be a pretty common complaint. As for the recoil spring, by all means change it out. The Witness in 10mm is horribly undersprung in 10. You say you will be running full house loads, do you mean handloads, or factory ammo? All ammo manufacturers except CorBon run WELL below SAAMI spec's and are essentially 40S&W+p. If you are going to be loading full pop 10mm, I've heard from more than one person a Sprinco mainspring, and a recoil buff are really your best bet, along with some severe shortening of the ejector

Thanks for the info. I did read some posts on the ejector issues and sounds like a straight fix to me. I will shooting handloads so want to set it up for that. I will order some springs to try.

I have seen a few people use a cut down 1911 spring(in addition to the recoil spring)as sort of a "buffer" as well and wondered if that is a feasible solution.

Lastly, are the factory guide rods not steel? I didn't have a chance to look it over real well last night, but seemed like it could be AL.

[pivoproseem]

Henning's replacement trigger takes out the side-to-side slop..the conefit guide rod would be a good idea ,too,... my .40 Match was showing sign of frame peening.

Hello I am new to EAA/Tanfoglio and just purchased a match in 10mm.

I was cleaning the factory "goop" from it and getting ready to go soot it.

I noticed the trigger seems to have quite a bit of lateral play. Is this fairly normal for the breed?

Second I have seen a many people switch to a heavier recoil spring right away. I am on the fence with this idea.

Seems like a little heavier or a wolf replacement might do the job without over stressing things in the forward end.

Oh and perhaps one of the conefit guiderods

This will not be a competition pistol btw but I do plan to shoot full house loads through it.

Thanks

[photog]

The trigger will have side to side play. I put a very thin bronze washer inn between the frame and trigger, held in with the trigger pin, to take up space. Cheap and easy fix. Or buy a Henning trigger. He's a great resource, and will help you out.

[mrfreeze]

Thanks the washer seems like a great idea. Easy and low cost are good.

I was going to order the springs, however a bit confused over the LS vs full size.

I was pretty sure the match are long slide?

I would like to hear also if anyone has used the improvised "duplex" spring with success or failure.

[vous]

Thanks the washer seems like a great idea. Easy and low cost are good.

I was going to order the springs, however a bit confused over the LS vs full size.

I was pretty sure the match are long slide?

I would like to hear also if anyone has used the improvised "duplex" spring with success or failure.

Hey there

I have been using the "duplex" spring arrangement in my .40S&W for about 4 years now and swear by it. I shoot IPSC so the major is 170pf minimum and I run at around 175pf to be safe. I simply got a standard 1911 10lb spring and cut it down to approximately 1 1/2 inchs and "screwed" it onto the factory spring and they both then sit on the guide rod nicely.

The benefit I have found is that it acts as a slide buffer but also reduced the recoil flip at the end of the recoil action I was getting before. I now get very little muzzle rise and a much softer recoil push. I would imagine this would be even better on a 10mm with the recoil energy that produces compared with a 40S&W!

[mrfreeze]

Great to hear. Did you retain the factory recoil spring or already have a replacement before adding the 1911 spring?

[vous]

Great to hear. Did you retain the factory recoil spring or already have a replacement before adding the 1911 spring?

I kept the factory recoil spring and just added the 10lb 1911 spring to it as it felt nicest that way for me.That is in a 40S&W though!!

However with a 10mm you might need to play around with the spring setup. The standard spring will be the first to take up the recoil energy and then as the slide comes back and starts to compress the second spring that is where the dampening will start to take.

For that reason you may need to try out other weight springs to see how they feel taking up that first part of the cycle.