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Baynewrady

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Posts posted by Baynewrady

  1. 4 minutes ago, YVK said:

    https://www.henningshop.com/T900-Two Axis Magnetic Magazine Pouch_it-1510919.aspx?CAT=13737

     

    These have been pretty much universal for all steel double stack 9 mm mags, with the exception of 2011 that need own pouches, for me. Setting up the PDP SF belt was as easy as taking my spare CZ belt and replacing a holster.

    Thanks for your reply! Unfortunately I'm not a fan of those mag pouches, magnets are too weak for my paws/waistline

  2. On 11/17/2023 at 5:33 PM, bofe954 said:

    Wouldn't mind a little more oomph to the mag springs. Do I lose a round of capacity? I use a maglula and am running the 24 round 9mm 140's.

    I put one in a mag for a season to compare it to my other regularly sprung MBX's. Turned out to be my most reliable mag and became my make ready mag, no loss in capacity either (21+1 .40 cal)

  3. On 11/9/2023 at 1:14 PM, Bigzona said:

    I have an X10 and started with my major load using AA7 for Open. You seem to have taken all the precautions to ensure consistency, as did I. With AA7, I too noticed a bit of variation in the load but usually to the high side, so I didn't worry about not making PF at Chrono.  However, it was frustrating in the beginning due to lack of trust, so I'd constantly check more than I'm used to.  Over time consistency got much better, but not great.  For the off season I've switched to LO shooting WST, and found that this powder meters a lot more consistently than the finer AA7.  My point is, your comment about how the specific powder meters might in fact play a role.

     

    Best of luck and keep us updated.

    If I ever figure it out I'll update this thread, though I'm getting close to throwing in the towel and accepting that N310 won't meter well through the FA measure. Don't really know what else I can try at this point.

     

    Does anyone know of a powder measure that meters N310/VV powders well?

  4. 5 minutes ago, shred said:

    IDK if the FX10 has a similar thing, but the Dillon is slightly more consistent if you set the failsafe rod so the spring lightly engages at the end of travel.  That said I've never seen very good drop consistency with the VV hamster-pellets in Dillons either.  I usually aim for 132+ PF since I can't feel or see the difference on the clock, match chronos vary by 2-3% easily and it takes the stress out of worrying about it.

     

    Interesting... the X10 does have a similar thing, I'll see if changing how it's set gets me more consistency. 

     

    I have heard that VV powders in general don't meter great, but at the same time a lot of guys are still using it. 

    I load for major so aiming for 170 pf. I'd agree that you don't really notice the difference on the clock, I'm more worried about chrono at this time. Had to "go to the 4th round" twice this year at chrono and don't want to run into it again. 

     

    Appreciate your responses very much shred.

  5. 12 hours ago, Zachjet said:

    This press has been out for sometime now. What is everyone’s thoughts on it?
     

    I’m considering an upgrade from my LNL, and right now I only load  9minor for production and CO. I do plan on loading 223 eventually.


    I already own a bullet feeder and I’m just about ready to buy a case feeder. In my opinion, I could buy the FX 10 which already comes with a case feeder. 

     I think with 10 stages I should be able to streamline my process and handle the brass less. 

     

     

    As someone who picked one up over the summer this year, I'm finding myself wishing I had gotten a 750XL instead. I think in the future the X10 will be extremely competitive, but right now there's just too many potential problems to recommend them.

     

    Main woes:
    1. Had a ton of issues with the priming system at first, I'll still occasionally (every few hundred rounds) get a primer stuck in the primer assembly which stops everything and I have to take it apart etc... This seems to be a pretty common issue
    2. I'm still having trouble getting consistent throws from the powder measure/thrower. This also seems to be a pretty common issue.
    3. QC in general seems to be an issue, luck of the draw if the machine you end up getting is issue-free or issue-ridden. I'm fortunate in that my machine doesn't seem to have defects (others on this forum have not been so lucky). But only 6 months in and I've had a replacement primer assembly and priming rod sent to me through their customer service (free of charge at least).

    4. They don't seem to have much in stock as far as X10 parts or replacement parts go. Their holddown dies have been out of stock since I purchased my press. Took about a month for me to receive my replacement priming rod. Their bullet feeder system was supposed to come out this year, but obviously that's been pushed out.

    Positives:
    1. 10-stations for 5-station money

    2. The action and indexing is very smooth

    3. Case-feeder included
    4. I've seen others comment that their CS is abhorrent. My experiences have always been mostly stellar.

    5. I met the engineer who is responsible for the X-10's creation at MG Nats this year. Paraphrasing but he basically said it's his life's work and his mission was to make something that rivaled the RL1050/1100. So while there are issues with it, I do trust that they are doing everything they can rectify them. 

     

    Hope this is helpful

  6. 5 hours ago, shred said:

    What scale are you using?  If you throw 5 charges and weigh them and then 5 more, do they both average the same?

     

    I ask because It's not uncommon with digital scales that only read to +/- .1 and VV powders to see that variance charge to charge if you measure each individually, but an average will come out fine.

     

    Using a Hornady Auto-Charge Pro to weigh my charges. 

    When I do a 5 charge or 10 charge "weight check" I'm typically within .3gr of the ideal weight. I understand I might be nitpicking a bit but in my experience  .1gr of N310 translates into about 30-50FPS for me. Had a couple scary moments at the Chrono this year (extreme spread of almost 100 twice) and trying to figure out where I'm going wrong.

  7. Has anyone else with an X10 experienced inconsistent throws and been able to fix it? I'm using N310 powder. When I set the press up I took the measure apart and brake cleaned the internals, let it dry, then ran liquid graphite through the assembly (manually actuating the measure to circulate graphite through the powder throw as well). Unfortunately I'm still getting +/- .1gr throws quite regularly. 

     

    Any tips or tricks to get more consistency would be greatly appreciated. TIA!

  8. Limited is dying because the new wave of shooters aren't interested in/are afraid of shooting .40 Cal. On top of that iron sight divisions in general are all dying out. 

     

    The industry/marketing are all pushing red dots and 9mm guns, as a result CO & LO are the divisions with the largest participation. 

     

    Not sure that anything can really be done to revive Limited. With Production going to 15 rounds soonish, trying to eliminate Major scoring from Limited seems nonsensical. Personally, as a newer shooter in USPSA, I'll be sticking with Limited till my eyes go, simply because I enjoy the challenge of .40 Cal & iron sights, and the feeling of beating dot shooters is pretty rewarding. I plan to shoot Single Stack in the future for similar reasons. 

  9. 1 hour ago, dtuns said:

    I've got 800 rounds through mine after about 200 these four screws were loose and had a jam not seating primers cause the linear bearings slide down and priming pin was on tilt. Tighten up and back in business. If Ihave any more loose screws might take everything a part and retighten everything. Seams to be lots of people having stuff come loose like when they assembled at factory was just put together hand tight. 

    press.jpg

    Hrm... ok thanks for sharing, I'll keep that in mind if I run into issues in the future. The screws I was talking about are the 2 on the actual primer assembly that appear to hold in the "wing" as it interfaces with the shell plate. 

  10. 3 hours ago, StefVanHauwe said:

    Glad you figured it out!

    Thanks! Me too 😅

    2 hours ago, Bigzona said:

    I’ve got mine in a box waiting to assemble it in the next week or so. This was helpful. I’ve been watching bragging rights YT videos and I recall he mentioned this in one of the many videos he has. Also glad you got it figured out! 

    I’m kind of annoyed no mention of it is made in the instruction manual or their videos on YouTube. I’ll have to try and find what bragging rights had to say about it. Not sure if I have things set to where I’ll have no worries now or not.

  11. Update: took apart the assembly (removed the "4 hole gear" from the housing) and inspected everything. There was a bit of gunk so brake-cleaned it away. Then I noticed the 2 set screws were "recessed" in their holes. I tightened them so that a couple thousands were exposed to the gear (upon reassembly), and reassembled the entire thing. Just went through 200 rounds of a mix of Ginex/Federal and no hiccups!

  12. 45 minutes ago, StefVanHauwe said:

    Hmm, did you reach out to FA Customer Service? This is also an interesting YT channel with alot of videos on the X10: https://www.youtube.com/@bragginrightsprecisionrelo346/videos 

    Yes, they said it sounds like I have everything installed/setup correctly so will be sending me a new primer assembly. I'm not very hopeful though, as I took apart the piece I do have and am not seeing anything that appears to be defective.

  13. 15 minutes ago, dtuns said:

    Is your shell plate indexing lining up with swage rod and primer rod where is it getting crushed?

    It's within the primer assembly itself (the "4 station gear"). Primers are constantly getting caught between the gear/assembly body and crushed. And yes, the swage/primer indexing appears to be correct as when I "hand cycle" 1 primer through I do not run into any issues.

  14. 3 hours ago, StefVanHauwe said:

    Hi, did you check out the instructional videos on the Frankford Arsenal YT-Channel, incl. primer set up and trouble shooting? 

    https://www.youtube.com/@frankfordarsenal632/videos

    Yup. Their priming setup video only talks about setting the primer depth. And I did not hear anything on the troubleshooting video on dealing with issues with the priming system..

  15. Has anyone else experienced issues with the small pistol priming system on the X-10? Granted I've only had the press for about a week, but I can only load maybe a few rounds before a primer gets caught/crushed in the priming assembly and I have to stop everything, remove the priming assembly, and get the caught primer out. I tried using both Ginex and Federal Gold Medal Match with this same result. 

  16. On 5/14/2023 at 3:36 PM, konkapot said:

    Out of town for a week; back now. 

     

    Shot today; same issue; roughly 3 out of 150 stovepiped. Again...bullet is facing up. Not an ejected case...a live round. 

     

    @zztMy factory ammo is longer; the plated 115s are shorter. Both a FMJ profile. Should I length or shorten the coated bullets?

     

    Any chance this is related to a recoil spring being too light or heavy?

    My  support thumb drags a little bit on the slide; could my thumb retard the movemen of the slide enough to cause this?


    To me this sounds like a mag issue, slidestop issue, or OAL issue. Something is causing the round to go vertical once it’s stripped from the mag during cycling. 
     

    can you recreate the issue by hand-cycling the gun? 

  17. 1 hour ago, ltdmstr said:

     

    After the set screw is out, you can hold the round slotted screw with a screwdriver.  But it needs to be a hollow ground one of the correct size.  Not a standard screwdriver with a tapered blade.

    Ok, I’ll have to buy one. Any chance you know the size? 

  18. 14 hours ago, ltdmstr said:

    There's a internal hex head set screw in the center of the slotted screw on the left side, think it's .050".  You remove that first.  Then hold the slotted screw on the left side while you back out the windage screw on the right side.  Once the windage screw is out, the blade will come off.  There is a spring in there as well.  Took me about 5  minutes.

     

    IMG_4524.jpg

    IMG_4526.JPG

    Thank you very much for this. How did you hold the the slotted screw in place? 

  19. On 6/10/2023 at 9:14 PM, ltdmstr said:

    Pretty sure you just keep backing out the windage screw and it will come apart.

    I tried messing with the windage screw but felt a "dead stop" after a certain point. I checked the other end and it looks like there's another screw that may be loc-tited in? Was hoping someone in the forum would know but maybe I'll just send the slide back to the factory..

  20. 2 hours ago, shred said:

     

    I don't know if this was a typo, but the takeaway is there was negligible difference in accuracy at 25 yards versus un-damaged bullets, even bullets with holes drilled into them were still 1/4 A-zone at 25.

    Not a typo, granted it was negligible, but there WAS a difference 😄. Obviously the crimp line I'm working with is nowhere near the damage you did to your bullets, but considering I'm spending time to reload, I'd like to have the rounds be as accurate as possible.

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