Baynewrady
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Posts posted by Baynewrady
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Just wondering if anyone has their crimp set at .419" with a coated bullet, and if so what the pulled bullet looks like?
After experiencing some feed failures when my crimp was set to .422", I adjusted down to the factory recommendation of .419". Looking at the pulled bullet from a .419" crimp though, I'm hesitant to think I won't potentially have accuracy issues (in some spots the coating's broken and I see exposed lead). Does anyone crimp to .419" and not have this "heavy" of a pinch line? How would I achieve that?
TIA!
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On 5/2/2023 at 12:55 AM, xrayfk05 said:
This is wat SVI gave me :
180gr Jacketed Projectile
1.20 in OAL (30.5mm)
4.7 - 4.8gr N310Use at your own risk, it is on upper pressure limit.
I do not use fast powders like this myself.
I've made and used this recipe. 180gr Xtreme plated bullet with 4.7gr N310, comes in very consistent at 170 pf +/- 1 pf. (using mixed brass and Ginex primers). Pretty soft compared to N320, but definitely approaching the pressure limit (every case fired showed the beginning signs of primer blowback).
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9 hours ago, clw42 said:
This thing works really well. It's a bit pricey, but for stand and shoot exercises it's fantastic.
Was going to post this same thing, I use it everytime I shoot on my land. It is awesome
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14 hours ago, kurtm said:
They can be tighter than panty hose so I recommend a starter punch so you don't bend you longer punch untill you get it drifting.
Holy hell you weren't kidding. I whacked on it for a good minute with a steel punch and mallet, barely budged it. It looks like it's staked in?
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On 8/4/2022 at 7:19 PM, kurtm said:
A hammer, a punch, and a solid surface to work on. Make sure you have the holes pretty well lined up when reinstalling so you don't crack the new one.
All it takes to get the current link out is to punch out the pin holding it to the carrier group? Jeeze, I thought it was more complicated. Thank you for responding and the tip for when I install the new one!
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Does anyone know what all is involved in replacing the link on a bolt carrier for an M2?
Link to part for reference:
https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/60685
Couldn't find anything through google. TIA!
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Update in case anyone cares, got the Calvin Elite assembly to fit, but when I took it to the range for testing had way too many slamfires/doublefires happen for me to feel it was safe. So the JP trigger's back in the JP, and the Calvin Elite's back in my zombie build.
Would love to know of any tips/tricks/spring kits out there to lighten the pull on the JP still -
22 minutes ago, moebravo said:
Thank you.
I think I was just trying to determine about technology and advancements.
From what I can tell, if I buy a steel grip and a barrel with a sight block on it. Then I'm right up there with the new guys as far as advancements. I could even mill the side for an optic or lever and have the frame tapped for a mount and make it an open gun.
I guess at the end of the day it's like a high end 1911 vs a custom 1911 from 30 years ago. If the person took their time building the thing, there's nothing earth shattering that I wouldn't be able to have done to this frame should I choose to.
I guess it's like the Atlas Rev 1 vs rev 2 didn't all of a sudden suck because they put a new version out.
Is the cost delta worth the difference wear and maintenance out of the equation?
Another comparison is a 90s sw revolver vs a 2010 revolver. I know they're production guns with minor variations like MIM parts and firing pin location but if you shot both at the same time would you be able to tell the difference?
Sorry for the long winded response.
Outside of 6 inch and full dust covers.
I'd need to know more about the 2 guns you are looking at to give a more educated opinion. Generally speaking not much has changed since 2013 as far as technology goes, at least that I know of. SVI came out with hybrid/island barrels and sight blocks became a thing as well. Both achieve the same result (more weight on muzzle end to help reduce muzzle flip). The only other things that you could do is get a slide racker, and frame drilled/tapped for a thumb rest both of which could be done by a good gunsmith. You could also get a cut for an optic if you want to go to open, but then you wouldn't want a .40 S&W barrel.
Your analogy of high end 1911's vs custom 1911's is pretty spot on. Ultimately what you'll be paying for is slide/frame fit, barrel fitment, and trigger. Parts can be put together/fit by any gunsmith, it's how tight the fitment is done that ends up costing more coin. Whether that's worth it to you is a question only you can answer. From a technical standpoint, there are accuracy gains to be had from tight fitment (particularly barrel lockup), but unless you're a GM chances are you won't be able to truly tell (most of us can't outshoot our guns).
As far as whether you could tell the difference between the two if shot at the same time, I would say absolutely yes. I've shot an STI edge alongside an Atlas alongside an SVI, and maybe it's the "mysticism" behind it, but the SVI did feel better. As far as performance, I am not at a skill level where I could truly perceive noticeable differences between the Atlas and SVI, but the Edge did require a bit more attention to return to zero. I'll add a caveat to this though and reiterate that ultimately most of us cannot outshoot our guns. "Performance is in the swordsmen, not the sword", that kind of thing.
My suggestion would be to avoid a used racegun, as chances are it's on its last legs, or at the very least you'll be needing to replace parts soon (think about how we use them in sport and why we might want to sell them to an unsuspecting buyer). Unless of course you know the previous owner or can handle the item prior to purchasing. If you decide to go the used racegun route, I'd say peruse the Classifieds on this forum, I've seen plenty of really great deals on some fine pistols when I've looked. Also considering sellers are fellow sportsmen, I'm more inclined to believe that the items are aptly cared for.
Final 2 cents, keep in mind that Bob Vogel has won multiple Limited titles using a Glock 35, Mason Lane has won a couple Limited titles with a Sig P320. Skill and familiarity with your gun will get you further than relying on a great gun alone. Having said that, I have an SVI and absolutely love it, and have never regretted losing the kidney it cost me for it
. Ultimately it's just a question of whether or not you want a beautiful/great gun, and whether you're willing to pay for it. If you're strictly looking for performance gains, I'd say buy more ammo/training. Sincerely hope this helps
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As J-Allen said, the approach of buying an old used gun to start with isn't bad idea if you've never run the 2011 platform before.
My $0.02 though is this is a buy once cry once sport. I'd say save your coin and buy the best gun you can. Better to have the best thing possible and learn on it, than learn on an old/cheaper gun and end up buying the best gun later anyway. Depending on the previous owner you might have a pretty bad experience starting off too (replacing parts etc...). -
Thanks for the $0.02, I took the triggers apart and came to the same conclusion you did. Gave up and just tried to fit the whole Calvin Elite assembly and was unsuccessful
. With one antiwalk pin installed, the other pin hole wouldn't align properly...
Anyone know if I can get replacement springs that will lighten the trigger pull? The Calvin elite doesn't even have a trigger spring (took the whole assembly apart and only found the hammer spring and disconnector spring)
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I’m guessing the answer to this is no, but wanted to ask the forum anyway just in case.
I have a JP trigger with the Armageddon roller trigger shoe, and a Timney Calvin Elite.
I’m wondering if it’s possible for me to put the roller trigger on the Calvin Elite? And if not, if it’s possible for me to swap the springs between the two assemblies. End goal is to have the roller trigger with the 1.5lb trigger pull my Calvin Elite has.
Thanks!
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Thanks for the responses everyone!
I've decided that I'll save up my coin to get a 750XL with .40S&W dies, then go on from there. Chances are I won't move onto rifle rounds for some time, and if I do I'll probably go with a single stage as johnmyster suggested. -
15 hours ago, sharko said:
Too steep, I just bought a loaded 750 for $1340.
As for the options:
Case feeder - came with my 750
Xl650 with inline fab mount (flush mount) - came with my 750
Upgraded primer switch - don't need with 750, I printed one for my 650 and it works fine.
Upgraded case stop - I have one but I took it off, wasn't impressed
Upgraded shell plate kit - nice depending on which one, roller bearings or oilite bearing and the indexing ball
Roller handle - came with my 750
Swage it large and small - I think NZVY covered that, I have one but never used it, my brother has one and likes it
223 conversion kit - comes with 750
223 Lee dies - cheap
Thanks for the feedback, had a feeling it was too steep of a price. I'm worried too that the swage-it was used on the press and voided the warranty.. I'll be passing on the offer. Thanks again all
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Right, the 650 isn’t listed anymore
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Hey all, hoping to get some expert opinions here. I was recently reached out to from someone on this forum with the following offer for $1200, is this a good deal? I have never reloaded before but have been looking to get into it. Since the 650 is no longer sold by Dillon I don't have a means to compare pricing.
Case feeder
Xl650 with inline fab mount (flush mount)
Upgraded primer switch
Upgraded case stop
Upgraded shell plate kit
Roller handle
Swage it large and small
223 conversion kit
223 Lee dies
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+ SCAPSA's the only match in state that feeds you after the match too!
Great group of people to shoot with
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Best of luck/hope you're doing better, get some Pannekoeken!
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On 5/5/2022 at 10:10 AM, yigal said:
it is nano size guns.
this is better
Would love to see the holster that goes with this
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2 hours ago, Zincwarrior said:
They are better than prior to bankruptcy (new I don't know about reloads), but their accuracy is really really poor. The powder loads can be dramatically different between rounds, not dangerous different but plays poopoo with accuracy. Range ammo only.
I've had terrible accuracy even with their new loads (.40 S&W), as well as a squib once. Unfortunately Freedom Munitions is just like LAX Ammo now.
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My monthly round count is hampered more by affordability than time. If I could I would love to shoot more. It seems like after the initial money dump, I'd be able to shoot 2x more for the same dollar on factory options if not more (.40 S&W especially, finding major PF loads loaded long for 2011's is proving expensive and not readily available).
I'm already really into the sport, I shoot at least 1 match a week if not more
. I'd also love to have the satisfaction and knowledge for loading my own ammunition. I plan on getting into PRS one day too, and it seems almost mandatory to load ones own loads for that sport.
Thank you everyone for your responses thus far, definitely seems like I'll be getting into reloading once I have enough coin saved.
Am I right in thinking that, considering my future plans/hopes of shooting more (~3-5K/month), a 750XL would be the way to go rather than a 550? Would be reloading 40, 223 immediately (maybe 9mm, though for minor loads I'm not convinced there's much savings to be had) and most likely 308/6.5 CM down the road (for PRS). -
3 hours ago, konkapot said:
I've found ok deals on powder on Gunbroker.
Press-Depends on how much you'll be shooting, where you'll be reloading, and how mechanical you are. Regardless you'll want to stick with Dillon products.
If you are reloading indoors, are very mechanical, and will be shooting a lot, that easily points you in one direction.
If you're only shooting 1k a month, will be reloading in a shed, and are not very mechanical, that points you in another direction
Absolute best thing to do is link up with the local shooting crew; on an internet forum it's harder to screen through personal biases. By talking to actual live people you'll be able ascertain "well that guy is full of s#!t." Talk to dudes, take a look at their reloading setup, ask them how they like their SDB, or 550, or 650 etc.
In this environment, you might find guys selling presses or accessories because they are getting out of shooting/reloading.
USPSA people are pretty good about being helpful; a buddy of mine is getting into reloading and I polish/tumble his brass for him, saving him the cost of the tumbler/separator.
Thanks for the response. I'd be reloading indoors, but I'm not very mechanical. Which direction is that pointing me in? Currently I only shoot about 1-2K rounds per month, but that has more to do with the cost prohibitive-ness of factory ammo prices than anything else. I've basically only been shooting matches this year with very little practice time on the range.
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Thanks again everyone for the responses! For competition I would love to create/tune my own loads, which is why I'm interested in getting into reloading. It's kind of daunting though to a total newbie with 0 experience. I figured I would first determine if it would still be cost effective given the new pricing environment (especially because I keep my practice brass), which it sounds like it is thankfully.
Where are you finding 8 lb jugs of powder? My initial research tells me that NV320 or Hogdon TG is what I'm wanting and the best I could find recently was 4 lb jugs of NV320 for $170 (Brownells)..
Also, any recommendations on presses for a total newbie? Is the Dillon 750XL too sophisticated for a newbie to start with? I ask because that is what I was thinking I'd get based on my research (buy once cry once). -
Thanks for the responses so far guys. So it sounds like you are still loading for cheaper than factory options (especially for competition loads which are anywhere from 40 cpr -> 50 cpr right now).
How are you guys getting your cost for bullets and powder so low? Massive bulk? Can I ask how much you're buying at a time? -
I've been thinking about getting into reloading (.40, 9mm, .223 specifically) but am wondering if it even makes sense at this point with the shortage/pricing on components. I was wondering if people would be willing to share what their costs per round is looking like using components purchased recently?
. Ultimately it's just a question of whether or not you want a beautiful/great gun, and whether you're willing to pay for it. If you're strictly looking for performance gains, I'd say buy more ammo/training. Sincerely hope this helps
. With one antiwalk pin installed, the other pin hole wouldn't align properly...
. I'd also love to have the satisfaction and knowledge for loading my own ammunition. I plan on getting into PRS one day too, and it seems almost mandatory to load ones own loads for that sport.
.419" Crimp with a coated bullet
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted
Was having failures to chamber, sometimes a tap on the back of the slide would force the round to chamber. My previous gun would feed my loads without issue, but this is happening in a new gun.
In any case, thanks for the responses guys, sounds like I'm overthinking things. I'm still going to adjust to .420" though to get rid of that indent line, based on shred's test it does look to me like damaged coating/exposed lead will lead to inaccuracy.