Griz
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Posts posted by Griz
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Nothing moves, so how could it wear?
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Those light chains are going to get shot up quickly.... For rev 2.0, one of your requirements should be using the plate itself to protect the mount for the plate. Hanging the plates from hooks with their shanks horizontally mounted to a support behind the plate is one solution.
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I have built pneumatic turners for NRA Action Pistol, with one cylinder turning 3 targets through a linkage arm. This works, but the linkage is a problem if it gets very long. We have a ~8' linkage that gets very floppy... If we used stiffer steel it would start to get too heavy, and we didn't want to use alumimum because of possible damage from bullet fragments.
If I had to do it again I would use 1 cylinder per target.
I considered electric actuators or motors, but either it gets expensive, or the targets turn too slowly for my liking. If you can get big/fast enough motors cheap it might be less hassle than using air.
I used cylinders with a 3" stroke and 3/4" bore. I would use a 2" stroke, 5/16" bore per target if I did it again.
You don't need much air. Running turners is like running a nail gun, not a die grinder. Just get a $50 Harbor Freight compressor and consider it a consumable item that you'll replace every year or 2 (and keep a spare handy!).
The most important detail is the solenoid. If you want accurate par times, you need a direct acting solenoid. Don't get a "pilot operating" solenoid because they have a different delay for each direction... I am using Asco 8342G001 solenoids. Retail price is crazy, but they pop up on ebay for much cheaper (I think I paid $35 each).
To interface the solenoid to a timer, I use a latching relay (Magnecraft 711XBXCL-12D) and drive the relay with a transistor that is turned on by the Aux output on a CED 7000 timer. You can also use a garage door opener remote to trigger the impulse relay, but a wire is much more reliable.
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The 625 isn't ideal because your velocity will probably be so low that your lead on the mover is off the paper at 25 yards, and I would guess you have a 5" gun, so the short sight radius isn't ideal.
That said, I started with a .45 (1911) and stuck with it for about 2 years before switching to .38 spl (627 then 686+). If a 625 is what you have, then use it to learn the game. After you understand all the tradeoffs, then start to think about upgrading your equipment.
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I'm not pissing on my press, so I prefer to sit.
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A tiny lady that I introduced to shooting recently found this site helpful: http://www.corneredcat.com/Rack_the_Slide/
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He likely means 2.5kg (5.5lbs), which is still very light but not implausible.
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I get shaky hands when I don't eat breakfast. Make sure you get some grub in you before you shoot a match.
Me too, but I also feel shaky if I eat too much breakfast. It's a very delicate balancing act for me.
It goes away after a couple of hours, but really screws with me for big matches since those start in the morning, and I will have match nerves on top of the blood sugar (I guess) related shakes... If I shoot in the afternoon I am usually steady as a rock.
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It was a joke.... Wife suddenly takes an interest in reloading... Check for new shoes...
Nevermind..
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In condition 2 on an Series 70 colt the gun will only AD if dropped muzzle first
Or if the thumb slips when cocking it...
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Then an awesome thing happened this weekend: my wife asked me if she could help with my most recent batch of .223! And it turns out she's better at it than I am!
Have you figured out yet why she was feeling guilty? Might want to check your CC statement
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I asked NRA AP headquarters this question directly.
Are revolvers that have been modified to accept moonclips legal in the production class? The cut is not visible with the cylinder closed, but is visible with it open.I ask because I have a 686+ that is bone-stock except the cylinder has been cut for moonclips.
The reply I received is below:
Based on the Chief Referee & Match Staff input, here is the final decision. Please keep in mind that this was discussed on every level, with everyone’s best interest in mind.
“My final decision is that this is a modification to facilitate reloading similar to the extended MagWell and would be illegal and also not in the spirit of the game”.
Let us know if you need anything else.
Don't let this stop you from shooting though.... I bet 9 out of 10 local match directors will have no problem with it... Unless the match includes one of the rare events that includes reloading on the clock, what difference does it make? No one can argue that you'll have an unfair advantage with a 4" barrel and a 12" lead on the mover
Go shoot some local matches and worry about upgrading your equipment if you want to shoot the Bianchi Cup or a state championship.
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For me it boils down to answering the question: "What are you trying to accomplish by cleaning the brass?"
I clean my brass for 2 main reasons:
1) So that the brass feeds well in my guns.
2) So that grit doesn't get into my dies and score/wear them.
Other people may have other priorities, but for me a vibratory tumbler accomplishes my goals with the least amount of effort.
I know that I am not cleaning the inside of the primer pockets, but the fouling there seems to be self limiting and (knock on wood) has never caused a problem for me.
I have tried wet SS pins in a rock tumbler and it was waaaaay too much hassle for no performance gain that I could measure other than the brass looking pretty (and sticking in my dies).
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Those are the first barricades I have seen that would allow you to actually run the Crawford Barricades with turning targets and the starting position as specified in the rule book!
"At the commence tire signal competitor must be standing in the shooting box with the palms of both hands centered on the face of the barricade directly in front of competitor's face"
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Oops, rebuttal...
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I eventually plan to do something similar (with a BeagleBone rather than a PLC, I'll be able to control it from a web page and/or smartphone
). The main 2 things I need to sense are that a case successfully made it into the shell plate and that the primer slide hasn't jammed. I think I could use an infrared LED and sensor to detect a missing or tipped case, and a plain ol' microswitch to make sure the primer slider isn't jammed up with a tilted primer.
Either of these error conditions would be caught by your time-out, but I want to catch it before the press binds up and potentially breaks something.,
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I have been shopping for that exact configuration for about 3 years... They are incredibly hard to come by in my area. Every one that I have found was either in so-so to good condition for $5k-$8k, or ragged out with saddle shaped ways for $3k. I have also found a couple at used equipment dealers that were slap wore out but had a nice fresh coat of paint for $3k or so. I won't even go look at one now if it has new paint.
If I ever find a decent Bridgeport, I'm going to convert my Sieg X2 to CNC which can be done for about $600 in a couple of hours. I don't want to be without a manual mill though, there are too many little jobs in gunsmithing/tinkering that require just a quick little cut here or there which I think would be a hassle with CNC.
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but there is a lot you can do with a $400 chinese mill (and uncounted hours of time and thousands in tooling)
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The classic (not so funny) is "HANDS UP! DON'T MOVE!"
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2) Its all about removing material and there really is no right, or best, way to do it because its all a matter of opinion.
I have zero education in metalworking, I simply bought a Harbor Fright mini-mill and started removing material.... There may be no "right" way, but there sure are a lot of wrong ways and I have discovered most of them
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I use ziplock bags for the majority of my ammo, but that feeling when you have loaded up a bunch of magazines and then find a semi-crushed primer in the ziplock bag is not good.
I us ammo boxes for major matches so that I am forced to get a good look at all primers.
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I recently read a couple fun books before diving back into non-fiction / theological books.
Lee Child: The Enemy
Whenever Lee Child tries to describe anything technical, particularly guns, I have to groan and roll my eyes... He apparently does just enough research to *think* that he understands and then tries to write in lots of "authentic" details, but ends up getting it totally wrong.
It's still entertaining pulp, but why can't he get someone at least moderately familiar with guns to give his books a once-over before it's published?
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I just got a Mossberg 930JM and DuaLoad 6-ups. I milled out the loading port and was just trying it out. So I'm in my kitchen wearing boxers and a 3-gun belt, racing a par time on a timer....
After about 10 mins, I had to take a break because I was getting pretty shaky from the adrenaline dump... Just from goofing around racing a timer at home...
There have to got be wires crossed in my head that make me respond to any kind of competition this way.
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I have a shooting buddy who started casting his own bullets... Or at least he used to be a shooting buddy. He never shoots anymore.
When I invite him to the range he says he needs to cast some bullets first, says maybe he'll make it to the range next week.
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A common cause of hammer follow is trigger bounce. Too many people concentrate on minimizing pretravel in the trigger system, not realizing that the ignition system needs a certain amount of pretravel to provide clearance for the trigger moving back due to inertia. The lighter the trigger pull gets, the more important this becomes since the center leg of the sear spring is able to provide less tension against the trigger.
A gun with a borderline amount of pretravel can exhibit hammer follow depending on how it's gripped. The more it moves during recoil, the more likely it will happen.
This.
It happens during fast splits because you probably slap the trigger, releasing the trigger while the slide is open, and then when the slide slams closed, the trigger bounces dropping the hammer to half-cock. You probably have better follow-through on more deliberate shots, so the trigger can't bounce when you are pressing it through recoil.
I wouldn't call it operator error, I'd call it a race gun that is tuned to just this side of the ragged edge of failure. I bet if the owner (not you!) were to hold the gun loosely and drop the slide on an empty chamber, the hammer would fall to half-cock more often than not.
You can fix it by holding the gun more firmly, by following through on your trigger press, adding pretravel, adding weight to the sear spring or some combination thereof.
Air Compressor Recommendation
in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum
Posted
No other use, just inflating tires?
If so, I don't think you need anything that would warrant bolting it down. I use a cheap nailgun compressor with a tiny tank when I adjust the pressure in my pickup's tires and don't have to wait for it, it's able to catch up while I'm moving between tires.