Griz
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Posts posted by Griz
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I doubt it's the best, but I'm using a Mobius ActionCam. You can set it up to erase the oldest files and keep recording when the SD card is full and can set it up to record automatically when USB power is applied (so it starts when you turn on the ignition switch).
A huge bonus is it's so small and light it's like it's not even there when velcroed to my hat for shooting events (unlike a GoPro which is so heavy that it jerks my hat around when I go prone for NRA AP).
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The bummer on this one:
... Requires a Windows based PC for configuration. (I'm Mac only.)
According to Logitech, they support Macs now. The Amazon info is probably outdated.
This link is at the bottom of the Logitech page I linked:
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/alert-commander/id545721825?mt=12&WT.ac=ps|10554
I have a FosCam too. Nothing wrong with it, it's just not HD. If you get a 640x480 cam, don't ever get a HD cam because then you won't be happy at all with the the low res one
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The Swann/HikVision cams I like require external storage (a computer on your network)... It sounds like you want something with on board storage (usualy an SD Card).
Logitech makes a nice system with on-board storage which can also automatically upload to Logitech servers on the internet (nice if the perp steals the camera). It is kind of like Apple products though in that it offers a poor price/performance ratio and doesn't have many options or features. You have to use it the way they intended, but it is fairly easy to use without much research/training.
I steered my father to the Logitech cameras because I didn't want to have to be tech support for him. He knows next to nothing about computers or networking and had it up and running in an hour or so.
They bundle it with a HomePlug (ethernet over your home power wiring) adaptor so you don't have to run an ethernet cable out to the camera. The difference between the "Master" and "Addon" is that the "Master" kit has both ends of the HomePlug link. The "Addon" only has the camera end. You can also run them using plain PoE (power over ethernet) and not bother with HomePlug if you run CAT5 all the way to the camera.
http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/alert750e-outdoor-master-system?crid=700
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The Swann 1080p IP cams from Costco are the best bang for the buck right now.
http://www.costco.com/Swann-1080p-2-Pack-HD-NVR-IP-Bullet-Cameras.product.100039914.html
There are rebranded HikVision cameras. (HikVision is the largest manufacturer of surveillance cameras in the word). This is the HikVision branded version: http://nellyssecurity.com/cameras/hi-def-ip-cameras/hikvision-ds-2cd2032-i-outdoor-hd-3mp-ip-bullet-security-camera-4mm.html
Be aware that video motion detection on board most cameras pretty much sucks... Be prepared for a lot of false positives.
The best solution to eliminate false positives is to use an external PIR (passive infrared) sensor, but then you need a much more expensive camera that has alarm inputs (the Swanns do not).
You can also run "NVR" software such as Blue Iris (PC) or ZoneMinder (Linux) that does more sophisticated "object detection" instead of the dumb "pixel count" that most cameras run. High end cameras such as some Axis and Mobotix also run object detection type motion detection, but they also have alarm inputs so I would just use a PIR.
You can also buy cameras with built in PIR sensors, but those are usually indoor only models.
Another issue you will have is that "nightvision" cameras use infrared LEDs to illuminate the area if you don't have another light source. The issue with this is that they attract bugs, so you get false positives all night from bugs trying to mate with your camera. The bugs also attract spiders, so you end up with a brightly lit spider web right in front of the lens.
I have a high end Vivotek plus a PIR on my driveway for email alerts with zero false positives. I have Blue Iris monitoring the rest of my cams. They have a few false positives, but I don't have them emailed to me, so it's not a problem.
When I was using video motion detection to email alerts to me, it was a "the boy who cried wolf" situation where I would just delete the alerts and not look at them because of all the false positives.
If you go into more detail about exactly what you want to accomplish I might be able to give better recommendations... I recently did tons of research and tried out several different cameras.
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He basically showed that you could score a 480 by holding the same lead each direction (8-ring), at each distance. With 900 fps, Leading on the 8-ring, your impact is the trailing 8/10ring line at the 25yd line, so a little over 900 would be ideal, or just lead barely ahead of the 8-ring.
Obviously not the best method for X-count, but you gotta have the points before those matter anyway.
That would work great if I could shoot a zero inch group. I can't do that, I have a hard enough time keeping it in the 10 ring with a stick shift, so using a fast enough bullet and holding the right lead is critical for *me* with metallic sights on the mover.
It's like when someone says about their inaccurate gun that it shoots better than they do, so they don't need a more accurate gun. IMO, the worse a shooter is, the more accurate a gun they need. If your gun shoots a 3" group then you need to be capable of shooting a 1" group to hit the X ring every time. If your gun can do a 1" group, then you only need to be capable of a 3" group to hit the X-ring every time.
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Its seems to me that there are 3 main issues people have with the 930 series guns.
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=178449
Light primer strikes - fixed with 10/22 hammer spring
I think this "fix" adresses the sympton and not the real cause in most cases. Every light strike I have observed was most likely a failure to go into battery. I think that is the case because I always ask the shooter when he last took the rings off the piston and the answer is usually a blank look.
I have also see one where the guy did clean the piston but then put whatever wonder lube he believed in on the piston which gave him about 50% light strikes...
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The editing is maddening. Everyone was going on about how smooth the guy was who tossed the cans and shot them one after the other fast and casual but they never showed it. They chopped it to pieces with clips of people saying how awesome it was. Brilliant.
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Apologies to gm iprod for taking his place in the punchbowl, but I would note that the "NRA Action Pistol" rules are just the starting point for the "Bianchi Cup" rules. The Cup has it's own set of rules, some of which are not in writing.
I am 99.99999% certain that if you show up to the Bianchi Cup with a Big Butt on a Production gun they won't let you shoot it, even if the rule book allowed it (which I don't think it does).
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I don't know and have not done the math so you can guess where my answer was pulled from .. that said I would personally feel ok with .100 left and a 6-40 screw. But that would be on my gun not some one else's.
If you do the math, the diameter of the screw hole will be directly proportional to how thick the wall must be for a given deflection so usethe smallest screw in the shallowest hole that will hold your scope. You only need a few threads so a 40 pitch screw can work in surprisingly shallow holes.
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Maybe he tried to shoot it out.
Edit.... guess I should refresh before posting
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I used a wooden dowel setup for a while and it works well if you are only shooting that one gun but takes up a lot of room in the bag if you are taking multiple guns.
I tried the plano boxes but they are very bulky and waste a lot of room with round clips in square holes.
The best solution for me has been clear plastic shipping tubes (uline is a good source). It is very convenient to just toss a few tubes of clips into my range bag if I'm taking a revolver that trip.
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I have an untamed beard and am an expert on which stocks will grab it and which ones won't.
Any of the Magpuls with a lock are good to go provided they are paired with a well fitting buffer tube. I use a CTR on most of my rifles..
I really like the UBR and the old M93 because of the superior cheekweld but they are too heavy for a 3gun rifle IMO
I don't care for a fixed stock because I like the stock to be fairly short for awkward positions
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You need a wire EDM in a bad way!
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It must suck to get eliminated from a show called "Top Shot" because you can't throw a spear.
The way I see it the spear just gave him a final chance to stick around after failing with 2 different rifles. If it was me though, I'd blame the spear too
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You're probably ahead of me on this but have you guaged your ammo or blueprinted it? Maybe your dies are the problem. ..
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It may be another 10-15 years, but I think there is a pretty good chance we'll have a production optics division. You don't see it much at the range but the small Burris type optics on production guns are catching on very slowly. I think that's why the folks at Smith & Wesson have put out an optics ready M&P.
Mark my words, the small optics on production guns will be very common one day. I can see a larger law enforcement agency going to them within the next few years and once that happens I think the civilian market will really take off. When or if there is enough demand by the membership, a new division will be created.
I've been an LE Firearms Instructor for over 10 years. No one in my neck of the woods has even suggested slide mounted optics (or any optics period) on a duty gun. In fact, they're dead set against anything other than standard night sights on a duty pistol because of a real or perceived chance of sight/component failure and the fact that they are more fragile than iron sights.
The S&W Core pistol is a "gimmick" pistol in the eyes of my fellow instructors so please excuse me if I don't mark your words because I know better...from 1st hand experience.
No disrespect intended.
In every police shooting I have seen on youtube (very scientific research) the officers did not use their sights at all. They were focused on the threat and reverted to spray and pray. A failed reddot would be just as good as irons and a functionng reddot would probably save lives (both the officers and bystanders).
So I'm of the opinion that optics will eventually end up on leo duty weapons just as they have on infantry rifles and for the same reason (they vastly improve effectiveness when training goes out the window under stress)
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Try proboards. .. I am on a couple of fishing proboards forums run by rednecks who find facebook beyond their technical expertise.
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Have you ever pulled the rings off the piston and cleaned it?
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My first employer closed it's doors and I was laid off in 2001 after a few years of stagnant raises. It turned out that getting booted out was the best thing that ever happened for my salary. I changed jobs 4 times in the next 2 years getting a 20% or so pay bump each time. When I finally settled back into another steady job I was making over double what I was when I was let go.
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Going all-minor for revolvers would bring out droves of those K-frame .38 owners. Right up until they realized that they need to reload on the move and they might have to run. Then they'll angrily snap their suspenders, put their khaki vests back on and never be seen again.
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I could be wrong, but I think you are better off not lubing the piston at all, from what I have read, lube just makes it foul faster. I run mine dry and it runs 100% YMMV
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With all that said, each time I had a slam fire was when I was manually closing the bolt from bolt lock.
Given that, I would say that they are not slam fires, rather they are the hammer slipping off the sear. Probably trigger bounce from light springs or maybe a botched trigger job.
I bet that if you dry fire it and hold the trigger back (keeping the hammer captured by the disconnector) when you drop the bolt it won't happen. Maybe even just holding the gun firmly against your shoulder so the trigger can't bounce will prevent it.
Best Dash Camera?
in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum
Posted
Youtube butchers the quality, but here's Mobius ActionCam footage of me pulling into my driveway a little while ago: