Irishlad
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Posts posted by Irishlad
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Given it's a 1911 and 45 ACP.
I'd suggest:
Cast frame with integral plunger tube and grip bushings. Or, do you need separate grips at all?
No grip safety...functional anyway.
Larger trigger/guard area. I "read" gloves are commonly used?
Easier method or design to replace the ejector. How about a hex screw to remove and replace?
Screw in front sights.
Rail if you need it.
Aluminum frame...depends on the expected "life" of the handgun.
I've "read" about some finishes where no lube is needed...hard to believe...but!
Might be easier to go with a S&W M&P.
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A great way to start is if you have a club that has "beginner" classes or "new member" days...so to speak.
Best to try skeet and trap first, see what you like, shoot as many guns and rounds as you can before you buy.
But, I agree with many of the suggestions for a Remington 1100.
Have fun.
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I'd avoid it for several reasons.
Too much "thinking" choosing between cylinder, skeet, skeet 2, etc for targets that close. I think it's a false sense of security to believe you'll hit a target with cylinder bore, compared to skeet...IMHO.
If you "choke tube" an existing barrel, you are shooting with a "thinner" barrel, without the choke tube installed, than the manufacturer intended. I'm not sure that's wise in the long run. And, in the short run...read above.
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Nice pics Warpspeed.
Those two pics say it all.
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Great stuff in a can...don't buy the pump spray...awful stuff.
IMO of course.
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Wenig gun stock has a thumb-hole type stock, although I have never seen one in person.
If you wish to have your wrist at/closer to 90%, if I understand what you want, then you would like a stock with a "tighter radius" on the grip.
Compare the grip on a Browning 625 to a Browning field gun on their website. You'll see the 625 with a pistol grip design more to your liking, compared to the traditional styles.
Look at the Perazzi catalog online and see some more "tighter radius" grips on the competition shotguns.
If you go to www.issf-sports.org you can navigate to the shotgun sports, either pictures or videos and "get a look". Lot's of different styles, but you'll see some "fitted stocks". Look at the Skeet competition videos in particular for a tight radius, for some shooters, and even a stock design that locks your hand even tighter on the pistol grip...you'll know it when you see it.
Good luck.
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Sometimes you can't beat free and easy, and sometimes it beats you.....with a stick!
True.
As mentioned, I'd find some AA or STS and go from there. Those hulls will last many "reloads", and easy to reload if you follow the book.
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Sorry, no help then.
It appears that's a Winchester Super X hull, which I haven't loaded before.
Is the top crimp fully closed?
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You should be able to adjust the final crimp die on a Mec. It's the last station.
If you lower it a "tad", it should round off a slight crown.
Try that first!!
Good luck.
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Benos's "My Opinion" pretty well sums it up. I'd add that in the effort to make skeet technically "less difficult", they have in some ways increased the "pressure" for the competitors because you can't miss in any shoot of any size in any gauge, except the 410...and not much either.
It's a shame for the country that invented skeet. It just take a "little bit" of change over many years and too much "entrenchment" to reverse it. But, Sporting Clays took the "bored" skeet shooters so at least there was another avenue. Took away potential "International skeet" shooters also IMO.
On the plus side, you can modify just about any skeet field for International "style". Just increase the target speed, to a point for "american" style birds, have the puller "pull" anywhere from instant to 3 seconds and shoot the International sequence...that works!! If you can, use 24 gram loads.
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I think with the advent of youtube, the net and other tech advances, the sport is reaching out and grabbing new shooters through these non traditional means.
Very wise...IMHO.
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Outstanding performance in a tough sport.
Those pictures should be in the Beretta Catalog!!
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Very good article from Bruce.
I'd defer to that and others he's written on patterning, fit, etc. Bruce is very knowledgeable IMO.
Great source from Tangram.
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How can you possibly know a shotgun will produce a 50/50 pattern without buying and shooting it?
You can't really, but "quality" guns should be properly regulated within reason. But, it can happen. It's usually more of a problem if it shoots right or left.
And, a gun that shoots 50/50 for me, may not for you. So, within "reason".
So, quality guns that I'm familiar with that should shoot to POI would be Browning/Beretta and up!
But, again small variances are okay and common I "suspect" given the nature of a shotgun pattern. 90-95% high on a sporting gun would be too much. If I bought it new, I'd send it back.
How much space do you see between the mid and front bead?
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I'd probably pattern test them again just to make sure. Particularly since one of the guns was fitted, and it doesn't sound like you asked for 70/30?
Try multiple shots to make sure your hitting the center of the pattern(dot) to determine the proper pattern height. It's easy to 'flub' a pattern test trying to shoot it like a rifle...it really is!!
If it's done properly, the 70/30 would be considered "high" for sporting but some shoot sporting(everything) with a trap gun/high stock...individual preference.
60/40 would be more common with 50/50 being the standard of a field/ flat shooting gun.
If you're not sure what you want I'd go with 60/40... or less.
I would consider the Browning at 90% to be unusable for most except the ardent 16 yard trapshooter who really likes to float targets. Again, if you patterned properly and it's that high...don't buy it because it's not produced properly. I doubt you could lower the stock enough to compensate, without ending up looking at the backend of the top lever...not good.
You can "alter" the point of impact with a 'custom' choke tubes to correct a "faulty" barrel and Briley would be the ones to talk to...however, I think you'll find it to be expensive and 'limiting' in choke selection. Basically, they would have to bore the choke tube "off-center" to correct the POI...if I understand it correctly.
Personally, I wouldn't bother with any of that including bending, rechoking/repair, etc on most any gun, with few exceptions of course. One exception might be you have a gun that turns targets to dust on the first barrel, but you can't hit anything with the second barrel. This is a gun you take to bed with you at night.
That gun you spend the money to fix the second barrel. 
Good luck.
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Xfactor,
If you enjoy that doing it, then a 30" diameter circle at 40 yards is the "standard". Dot in the middle where you aim.
I'd be more concerned about how high it shoots, than the actual pattern to be honest. If you really "get into" trap, then you'll get involved in fine-tuning.
But, if you like doing it...I'd take mutliple shots at the same paper to see where the shot is hitting. Meaning, I'd want 60% of the shot in the top 1/2 of the circle at a minimum.
Probably 70% for regulat trap might be easier. Some go much higher, but!!
Being lazy myself, I'd just raise the comb and shoot it to be honest.
Good luck
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Darn it. Don't tell him now. Wait till he's at least hooked
I should have..sorry.
Xfactor,
Thanks.
Just a cautionary on how things appear, beads, ribs, stocks, etc. Without a pattern test you never really know how high/low, right/left, etc so just have fun and experiment as needed.
If you are shooting and missing too low/behind, swing through more.
Shotgunning is easy.Good luck.
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For trap shooting I'd raise the comb a bit to make the gun shoot higher. Easier to hit rising targets.
They make "pads" that can placed on the comb and removed when needed.
Or, if you a "spartan chap", you can use duct tape to raise the comb.
But, a pain to remove and re-apply.
Mid-beads give you a reference point to the front bead as to how "flat" or high" the stock "may" be, and whether your "aligned" or off center with your face mount. Not needed, but common on American guns. You should never see the them shooting of course....if you do...you are "rifle shooting" with a shotgun.
Not to worry, if you enjoy trap shooting, you'll end up buying a trap gun anyway.
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You can do some "basic" fitting by yourself with the gun in front of a mirror.
Unloaded gun, of course, stand in front of the mirror..far enough away so the barrels don't "whack" the mirror
.Make sure the comb is high enough so your eye is above the rib. How high is a matter of what you like and what sports you shoot. But, the rib should never "block" any part of the eye.
Make sure the eye/face is centered over the rib, not looking down one side of the barrel for example.
If you "premount", then do that. If you start with a lowered position, you'll need to bring the gun up and mount...then adjust. If you use a shooting vest, I'd wear it while doing this.
Good article on the parallel comb. I don't shoot with parallel combs, but many people do, so I don't have a real opinion to be honest. For two shot sports, it makes "sense" to have some drop so the stock stays in your face better. But, I've seen too many good shooters shoot with varying "styles" and "stocks" to proclaim any "absolutes".
Of course, if you have someone whose knowledable, that can help...much better.
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While pistol is more "strict", I've been shooting shotgun a long time and haven't seen many dangerous infractions.
Meaning, full or empty hulls in a gun off the shooting station. I have and I've seen others immediately warn a shooter for leaving the station with a closed gun, auto only, or an O/U not completely unloaded.
Only once have I seen a loaded gun sweep a crowd and, of course, a new shooter did it. Corrected immediately by the way...as people scurried out of the way.
Now, sweeping a body part with an empty gun is where people can take exception. With an open O/U off the shooting station, it's often put on a shoulder, a foot, etc because when you are not shooting, they are heavy!! So, in the act of raising the O/U to your shoulder, it's possible to "sweep" some feet and legs...depends. Bring it in "tighter" as you lift, and you are sweeping your own appendages.
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IMO, the level of safety "awareness" is much greater with pistol than shotgun, no doubt.
But, basic rules are the same.
At big clay target shoots, skeet and trap for example, you have a lot of people "hot". 5 to 6 shooters on a squad or on a pad waiting to shoot. Running maybe 10- 50 fields and a lot of people to watch. Add shooters coming and going to the field, their cars and no "holsters" for shotguns.
O/U's are much safer in that regard. They should always be open, always, when not shooting on the station or on a rack.
The last "accident" I read about was a "basic firearm" safety rule broken that applies to all types of firearms...in the parking lot of course. Maybe the most dangerous place at a gun club....except the bar.
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Shotshell Press Recommendation
in Clays
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I've used MEC progressives for many years and although it has a couple of "peccadilloes", I believe you would be hard pressed to find such a reliable, durable and "efficient" machine.
I don't resize often and use one style of hull, which greatly enhances it's speed and smoothness.
They have "sweet points" on adjustments, so once you achieve those...don't change them.