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Andreas

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Posts posted by Andreas

  1. I had a Blade Tech remolded by the factory. It cost me the shipping one way. You need to contact customer service and they will hook you up.

    My SP01 is perfect out of the box so they can do it.

    Thanks for this. I'lll send my Blade-Tech pouch back to the factory as soon as the COM I have on order arrives.

  2. I've used all three with 4.0 gr. of Bullseye. The Bayou TCG is my favorite, as it best combines low smoke, easy of loading (1050 + Mr. Bulletfeeder), and accuracy. The SNS RN also loads real smooth but smokes more and may not be quite as accurate. But it's cheaper, and I've been shooting them a lot lately. I couldn't get the BBIs to load smoothly in my setup—very tippy during indexing. YMMV.

  3. Cheapest solution is to polish all the surfaces that rub against each other and drop in a 13# mainspring. You might be able to get away with an 11.5# mainspring as well.

    Both CZ Custom and CGW make replacement hammers with different hook angles and smaller engagement surfaces. That will help with the creep.

  4. Thanks for all the suggestions! Fiddling with the adjustment screws didn't help. It felt like most of the binding was coming from the tab on the inside of the trigger guard, so I filed it off. That helped a bit. I'll try some fiddling with a blow dryer next, but in the mean time I've ordered a COM…

  5. Thanks. I am going to try that. If it works it seems to mean that the extractor would require excessively frequent cleaning, but first things first.

    Yes, pull the extractor every few thousand rounds and clean out all the gunk that accumulates. How often depends on the ammo you're shooting. I learned to do this the hard way.

  6. Good tweaks on the CZ Custom shadows are thin safeties (easy to accidentally activate the stock Shadow ones) and a thin front sight.

  7. Trigger on the decocker pistols can be made just as good as any other models with the FPB. Main difference is the difficulty in reassembly after detail stripping the pistol. On the models with safeties, the sear cage pops out as a unit once your remove the safety lever. A separate pin then holds all the doodads comprising the fire-control system.

    On the decocker models, you pull out the decocker, then there's another cross pin to remove before you can pull the sear cage. Removing this pin causes all the fire-control doodads to jump out. CGW makes a slave pin (or you can make your own) if you want to remove the cage without disassembly.

    Re-assembling the decocker sear cage is much more difficult due to the additional parts and springs.

  8. Increasing the size of the chunks you deal with in visualization is a big part of it. This comes with thousands of repetitions burning the motions into your subconscious. There are a lot of steps in a reload, and when you're new to shooting your conscious mind needs to process the details. But eventually those motions become subconscious, and the reload just happens. This greatly reduces conscious mental load. The same applies to position entries, aiming and different targets, etc.

  9. Couple of ways to go. or combo of all.

    thin safeties to get rid of anything that you can catch.

    fit super tight. lots of trial and error.

    Steve Perman detent spring. they are heavier, longer, push the detent harder into the safety.

    I see the thin safeties on the CZC web site. Where can I find the heavier detent springs? My Google-fu is failing me :-(

  10. I've had enough of accidentally activating the safety on my SP-01s when slipping up on a draw, weak-hand transfer, or some other maneuver. What are your favorite techniques for making them stiff as hell and effectively impossible to activate? Staying Production legal, of course—can't just weld them into the off position.

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