[Recommendations for aggressive 1911 grips?]

Barnhart grips!!

[Found Hi-cap P16-40 mags]

Modify the mag catch and use STI magazines.  

 

[Para P-18 --STI mag options]

BTW, Rich is still in business!

[Para P-18 --STI mag options]

ChuckS.... is correct!   Spot weld a tab ontop of the ledge of the mag catch, mig welder.   Just a tab.   File flat.   

Remove the catch, insert the STI tube and u can see how the notch hole is taller, than the para notch hole.

By welding a spot and filing it flat, all you are doing is rising the contact point to hold the mag.

Para tubes notch hole can be filed upward to match the same slot as STI tubes.

Simply fix.

But do weld on a spare catch.  So you have two.  Just in case.

[How much titegroup is to much]

When i was using TG, 180 Zero, 1.170 oal, 4.6 TG.

From a 5" gun.

72stick, is correct. TG has too much of a bark, to it.  Too hot!

I now use WST, 5.5 gr.   Much better recoil. 

 

[How to tell if sear and hammer engagement surfaces are still good]

Having the 20x scope is good to have but when you look at the hammer and sear through the scope, the parts are not in the frame.

What really matters is the engagement of the parts when they are in the frame.

So, by using a blue shapie as described earlier,  that will clearly show how the points are contacting. 

 

Is there enough contact?   Does it favor one hook more than the other?

 

Good luck

[Custom 2011 is doubling/tripling]

Busy or not, the builder should put TOP priority on fixing it and getting it back quickly!

Thats a joke to pay top dollar, the trigger doesn't even work!!

Damn!

This is custom work?????

[How to tell if sear and hammer engagement surfaces are still good]

Mark the sear with a blue shapie, assemble the trigger set.   With or without the slide, dry fire .   Without the slide , drop the hammer on your thumb, so as not to hit the frame.

10 times or so.   Remove the sear, now look and see how the hooks are swiping on the sear face?

Do this any time you replace or drop in any trigger parts.

Buying a trigger package, dropping it in, does not guarantee your getting equal contact from both hooks on the sear!

How do you know for sure?   You don't...until you can verify it.

 

Even a kit from Brazos.  You need to "see",  there is equal contact from both hooks!  If , your not... no bueno.

Especially, with a trigger pull under two pounds.

 

When cleaning the lower portion,  mark the sear with blue sharpie, assemble.    So, the next time you clean and remove the sear, you can see if there are any changes in the contact points!

 

Thanks, to " powder finger"!

 

JMO

[Switching from 180gr to 200gr.]

I tried the 200s from zero.   Didnt care for them. 

Were not as accurate as I expected at 25 yds, considering it is a heavier bullet going at a slower velocity for a 170 PF.   I used 4.8 WST @ 1.165 OAL.

 Using a 11 lb spring, had no issues with the reliability. 

FWIW, the 180 gr bullet is better suited for the 40 case.

[Gunsmith? Local or mail off?]

no difference between the 2011 and 1911 

[Trubor slide hitting comp]

send it back!

[Rock Island Hi Cap pistols]

you can sand down the base of the sight to lower it.     Dawson has a video, where he does exactly that, when fitting the front sights.  

[Best 1911 Trigger Set up?]

as much as it is important to use high quality parts, as you are.   what makes the trigger job a "trigger job", is the contact area between the sear face and hammer hooks!

 

along with everything else that contributes that.

 

 

[P16.40 ejecting mags]

IF...the magazine can wiggle in the frame and there is not enough of the ledge from the magazine catch fully engaged into the magazine body notch, along with the downward pressure from the bullets hitting up against the slide, this will push the magazine to fall out.

I would test this by inserting a full magazine into the frame, wiggle it by grasping the bottom.  Try to pull it out.     With the slide on the gun and try it without the slide on.

 

One last thought would be to try a stiffer magazine catch spring.   It could be the recoil of the gun with a light spring, is not staying in place, combine with not enough engagement from the magazine catch ledge into the magazine body notch, will let the magazine to drop out.

 

good luck

[Rock Island Hi Cap pistols]

the .180 sight is 10-12 clicks out because it is not flush with the top of the slide.   if it were... it probably wouldn't not be that many clicks out.

[What Pound Recoil Spring]

14lb

[Casefeeder stuck brass fix]

mine 1050 from the 1990s, has a "coil wire", similar to the mods, everyone has posted here.    So, this was done before by Dillon.

[More permanent way to black SS. sights]

Testers "flat black" paint.

[2011 hammer catching at half cock]

SlappyMctrigger!    Good tip to know for future reference, along with the fix THEMULE, has mentioned.

[200 grain 40 Major loads]

I just finished 2k of Zero 200gr with 4.8 WST.   FWIW, I planned on going back to the 180s.

Yes, 200grs were softer, no doubt but I didn't find them to be much more accurate than the 180s, if fact, the 180s were better at 25 yds.

Using TG with the 200grs was no fun.   TG works well with 180s (not better) than WST but works.   

 

For me, shooting a 40 cal just seems to work better with 180grs.

 

JMO

[Remington double stack]

look just like a Para

[P16-40 for Limited]

just now using Zero 200 FMJ, with WST 4.8, 1.180, 12lb spring with 17 MS, in my Para 1640, BarSto bull barrel.     I did use a 10lb and was fine but I seem to prefer the 12lb spring.

 

[Lone star innovations ?]

 

andersonJ55126, what caliber is your pistol?

[Most reliable feeding. Lead, plated, jacketed]

feed ramp and properly loaded ammo.     jacket bullets, always for me!!

["Shorty" open guns for USPSA?]

gmantwo, what caliber???  maybe, I missed that..