charliez
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Posts posted by charliez
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I looked at the Giraud, and decided the Dillon would provide more automation (each cycle of the press yields one prepped case). I wasn't expecting the neck resizing in addition to case body. I'll try setting up the RT1200 this weekend and see how it goes. It's a shame though, with a little redesign in the trim die the RT1200 would be great.
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So then the toolheads are setup as follows (for my 650, 5 stations):
Toolhead 1:
- Universal decap (don't want to size anything yet to avoid working the brass too much)
- RT1200 trim (and FL sizing), adjusting the trim a bit shorter than spec anticipating stretching by the resizing die
- Neck resizing die with expander ball
Tumble to clean lube (or not)
Toolhead 2:
- Universal decap (to clear flash hole of debris)
- Powder drop
- Powder check
- Bullet seater
- Crimper (if any)
Alternately, in Toolhead 1, you can set the RT1200 to trim to spec, and then use the RCBS X sizing die (it prevents the case from stretching).
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I think I understand what you are saying. As I see it there is no way to use an expander ball and trim at the same time, so I might as well continue FL sizing with my RCBS dies and ream out the trim die to allow a neck ID of .305". Or is there another die that would work for me?
As I said the 5.56 cases I trimmed didn't require an excessive amount of effort to push into the trim die to trim, but I haven't checked the bullet fit in them yet.
I now have a bunch of .308 cases that are primed and undersized in the neck. Any suggestions on the easiest way to get the neck back in specs?
Interesting, I just purchased the RT 1200 as well. The sizing approach of the trim die bothers me. The reason is I only want the RT1200 to trim as I've just decapped and FL size it in station 1 (which stretches the case). If the RT1200 sizes the neck smaller than specs, then the neck will have to be resized again, which stretches the neck, and needs to be trimmed, and resized, and trimmed ... and repeat ... this is not good
I was wondering about this as I test fitted my 308 cases into the trim Die, and it would not fit, which surprised me as I was not expecting it to be so tight.
Short of reaming out the trim die is there a better way to do this (other than returning the RT1200 and looking at other case trimmers).
ETA: I think the reasoning to make it tight is to hold the case in place while the trimming is performed (otherwise the case would spin), but that is easily performed on the case body vs. sizing the neck.
A way to work around the endless trimming is to adjust the trimming a bit shorter such that the neck sizing after the trim ends up stretching the case to the right length.
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I am currently using RCBS Lock-Out dies for my handgun reloading on Dillon 650.
When I attempted to use the Lock-Out die for 223 reloading, the feeler rod wouldn't fit through the neck
So, I fashioned a thinner feeler rod using a wood dowel and fitted it into the Lock-Out die.
I have the Dillon powder check assembly, but that just drives me nuts with the beeps, and it won't stop the press like the Lock-Out die does.
What do you folks use? Any suggestions?
Thanks!
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Sell the 550, get 2 650's!
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you must have a gap surrounding the primer tube
Ah, well, I wasn't suggesting an all metal gapless design
that would make the tube a barrel ... was thinking the bottom end could use a rubber o-ring as well (the top already has it). Another material that could possibly be used is a thin sheet of foam. From a gap perspective, the foam or thin sheet of paper is much softer than metal and could serve as a "gap".But in any case, the gap, hence the noise, appears to be "by design" due to safety reasons. Heed the safety information folks!
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I've had the Dillon small primer filler for a little over a month now and wanted to ask folks who use it whether they find it as noisy as mine is.
It sounds like an old fashioned metal bell alarm clock. The vibration (and hence the noise) can be adjusted, but adjusted too slow and the little buggers won't advance enough up the ramp to make it to the tube opening. Adjusted too fast, the noise level is high, and also results in a high occurrence of upside down primer fill.
I've experimented with holding the primer tube (the blue tube that holds the primer tube) tight, and it did cut down on the noise significantly. So I began to fill gaps with paper insert wherever there is a metal to metal gap inside the blue tube (the top is easily screwed out, the bottom requires a bit of strength with a tight vise but it will unscrew).
For expediency I just tore some scrap post-it notes enough to make the circumference of the gaps. I suppose for longer term use I should have taped them to the tube or something, and/or I could've used a vinyl insert instead of paper to reduce the noise even softer.
It's now noticeably quieter
Q for Dillon: I see the upper assembly has a rubber O-ring to space the gap, why weren't the other gaps spaced with rubber O-rings as well? Seems a very low cost and simple mod to make the filler quiet. In my experience the vibratory function is only required for the primer advance action, damping noise of the primer holding tube does not affect the primer advance function at all
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Hmm, quick question, do you have the original (i.e. unmodified, uncut, unclipped) spring under the ball detent?
If so, then did this mod work for you? I'm assuming this is what Alan and others have.
If not, did this mod help any? I have a clipped spring under the ball detent, and wasn't experiencing the snap to begin with. Ordered these anyway though (curious to use with the original spring), didn't seem to help much for me (too tight and the shellplate won't move, loose enough to move and the shellplate snaps) ???
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I'm going to have to do this again, somehow it got misaligned and the primer station is slightly off.
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For a small and collapsible reloading bench I went to Lowe's (any hardware store actually might have it), and got a Black and Decker workbench. The size of the box it comes in is pretty much the size when collapsed.
I use a fiberboard clamped to the workbench to get an even contiguous surface. (or you can attach a piece of wood under the fiberboard and clamp that using the workbench).
They provide plenty of area for the RockChucker and powder measure.
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My primary reason for shooting plated bullets are:
1. Works fine in my gun
2. Total metal jacket (i.e. no exposed lead)
3. Cheap
FMJ bullets still have an exposed lead base which emits lead vapor when shot or has the design changed these days?
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Powder Valley just shipped my Varget 8lb backorder placed early March.
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The places I listed are out of most Hodgdon powders: Titegroup, Clays, 4831SC, and of course Varget, and other flavors.
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Thought I'd start this thread as a complement to the primer shortage ...
Been looking at Cabelas, Natchezss, Grafs, MidwayUsa, any other places?
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Sorry, no info on the difference, try calling Lyman direct and ask?
I like the Auto Flo feature, it works really well if you fill the tumbler full with brass. Basically when you pull the rubber plug, the media pours out, but the brass keeps tumbling in a rotating flow. This allows all the media to be shaken out from the brass, and pours out. When no more media comes out, the brass is clean of media.
This mechanics does not work well when it's partially filled that the brass doesn't keep tumbling in a rotating flow. But then again, if you only have a few to tumble, use a media separator (a colander works just fine
just don't use it for food again, ever). -
Sure you can use other powders, but you have to do load development all over again. Doing that for every 8lb keg isn't practical
but might be worthwhile if you do it for all powder types of similar burn rate. I'm not that rich 
I've been monitoring midway, have a reminder set for about a month now, and had not seen it available either way. So wondering how Robbie snuck by to get his 16lbs of Varget.
Yup, I still have some Varget, but am looking to replenish, or top up as you say it.
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I also have 16 lb coming this week from Midway. Woohoo. I got powder.
Whuh? Varget is showing as temporarily unavailable from Midway???
OK, spill the beans, how'd you get it from Midway
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I'm also looking ... late to the party
Any tips on where?
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Thanks. I'll start at 44.5gr and go up from there.
What cartridge is this load for? 308win or 300wsm?
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I called Hornady and the lady told me that toward the end of February we can send in our old LnLs in to be retrofitted - for $100.
I must have misunderstood about the shell plates, because I was thinking that we would get 2 brand new shell plates for free and be able to buy others for $10.00 each. But from what I read here, it appears that they are going to take our old shell plates and just machine them down to work with the EZeject.
So I wonder, which is it, brand new shell plates, or retrofitted old ones, does anyone know for sure?
I'll call Hornady back Monday and ask them about the shell plates.
Hack
Well God man, post your findings when you do find out ...
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Found the video on their homepage
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I use the RCBS lockout die very early when I started reloading on a progressive press. It really helps me avoid a squib and dbl charge.
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Curious ... what is this 40 gizmo?
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+1 had a LnL for 2 weeks, messed around with the weird ejector wire with great aggravation, then returned it. Went to BE for my XL650, loving it very much!
that would make the tube a barrel ... was thinking the bottom end could use a rubber o-ring as well (the top already has it). Another material that could possibly be used is a thin sheet of foam. From a gap perspective, the foam or thin sheet of paper is much softer than metal and could serve as a "gap".
Dillon RT 1200 questions
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted · Edited by charliez
I was thinking of the same thing, but only slightly enlarge the neck portion (and leave the case body alone), was thinking of using the dremel tool actually with some abrasive barrel lapping compund.
If you end up making a trim die, it might be worth offering this to the general public (i.e. us here), I'd buy one each for 223 Win, 308 Win, and 300 WSM, or at least let us know what the cost is per die.