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charliez

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Posts posted by charliez

  1. So, good thing about the Dillon 223 carbide die is that it has a stuck case remover built in on occastion when the case is stuck. The Dillon die has a slight round taper at the die mouth and centers the case better (vs. crushed case mouths). Not so good is the decapper is fixed and bends when you run into a hard to extract primer (i.e. won't budge at all). To continue operation the die must be removed and the decapper pin replaced (takes some time to do).

    I've also used Lee Die, good thing about it is the decapper which is fastened by a collet, it slides up until you fasten the collet to the force desired that punches the primers out. If a primer is stuck hard, the decapper is pushed up and can then be readjusted on the spot (faster to correct than Dillon's). Not so good is a stuck case, you have to use a separate stuck case remover. Also the die mouth is fairly straight, I've had occasions when I had to stop and remove a crushed case due to misalignment.

    It's a bit of a toss up really :-)

    Hope this helps.

  2. Another alternative is to use separate powder bars for different loads vs. turning the knob.

    I then adjust for a different load by inserting a different powder bar already preset for that load.

    Makes it easy to change calibers when you have just 1 toolhead. I've since settled on having a dedicated toolhead for each caliber & load.

    It also makes it easy if you load for different power factors of the same caliber, just use the powder bar you've developed for the particular power factor.

  3. On that thought, yes my requirements differ. I reload for bolt action rifles and long range precision..

    I processed 5000 rounds of 223 brass for my AR-15 matches, trimmed them (used the RT1200 btw), and haven't had a need to trim them again. The variance is similar to yours.

    Didn't mean to bad mouth Dillon, it is great for what it is for.

  4. I have the same experience. It has to do with the heat transferred by the trimmer motor to the carbide cutter. It's all the same steel shaft. The cases will start at the size you set it to, then as the shaft heats up, the cases will start be trimmed shorter. This is due to the carbide cutter being pushed closer to the brass.

    My solution was to sell the Dillon trimmer and buy a Giraud trimmer, nice consistent case length everytime.

  5. Just know that the 1050 works best for production runs, i.e. reloading a single caliber mostly. This is due to the effort to change the setup to another caliber (it is more involved thatn 650).

    If you are thinking of reloading multiple calibers, go with the 650 and use multiple toolheads, each having the complete a complete set of dies.

  6. Yeah, that's really dangerous there if the squibs don't reliably come out of the barrel with just a primer loaded, if the primer alone doesn't push the round out, one of the 5000K rounds might just cause an overpressure damage.

    As far as powder check, on a 650 I had 1 station where I installed an RCBS powdercheck die. It is adjustable and will stopped my press if there isn't enough powder volume.

  7. I have recently purchase a PW auto drive for my Dillon super 1050. However, when I hook it up, I can not get the unit to push with enough pressure to pop out the old primers. If I use a case that doesn't have a primer it works fine. I can not figure out how to adjust the arm to make it have enough torque to finish the step. Any suggestions?

    1. Make sure your decapper has enough length to push the primer out

    2. Tighten the clutch incrementally until the primer is consistently pushed out

    Setup was rather tricky for me as well, but it's working now.

  8. Looks great, when I checked the bearings link, it says Bearings are not shipped in the box? Are you sure that's the one you purchased?

    Did it come with the bearings? or was it already mounted in the block, hence not uninstalled in the box. I'm thinking they might have posted confusing information :-)

  9. One practical easy way I have found is to use Kroil oil dripped liberally from the top of the die on the case mouth so the oil capillaries between the case and die wall.

    Let stand a few minutes for oil penetration, then use a long awl, or a screw driver to tap the case out, use multiple taps vs. blows. I was pleasantly surpised when it came out after five taps.

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