diablodawg
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Posts posted by diablodawg
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The Garand isn't as slow as it might seem. More than 10 round relays are not all that common, and they are faily easy to reload, albeit never as fast as a magazine. The added benefit is that when you beat bottom feeders, you feel awesome.
Not to mention a comp'd .30-06 is gonna be the loudest on the range.
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Check out this open gun built by a gunsmith in the Netherlands. <a href="http://www.vanmulekom.com/vuurwapens07.php?subaction=showfull&id=1254671084&archive=&start_from=&ucat=51&" target="_blank">http://www.vanmulekom.com/vuurwapens07.php...mp;ucat=51&</a>
Looks like the link on this died so i'll try and post some pics of it. I just can't get over how cool this gun looks. Definitely a step away from the norm.
That is easily the coolest open blaster I have seen. Makes me really want to turn some deployment money into a awesome robocopish open gun.
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What I really would like to do is use an M1 Garand, but I can't win on style points alone.
Us Garand shooters don't win on style points...
... we win on sexy points.
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Where did y'all buy the Lee parts from? I'm not seeing them on the Lee website...
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I started reloading on my own press last August. I bought a Dillon 550B from BE, plus bells and whistles, for $1100. This includes a 9mm setup I haven't used because I am too lazy to do the math and subtract it from the total.
I shoot .45acp out of a STI Trojan.
Brass is mixed manufacturer range pickups and some brass I have collected from my own shooting; for this I consider it free because I have much more range pickup brass than once fired from me.
Primers: Wolf LPPs $140/5k or $28/K
Bullets: BBI 230gr RN $200/2k or $100/k
Powder: WST $62/4lb or $16/lb @ 4.7gr = $10/k
Total: $138/k
I have shot about 4k since I got my machine, for a total cost of $552.
The cheapest I can find .45 for is from ammoman.com Wolf non-reloadable for $199/500 or $398/k.
Times 4k = 1592
Difference is $1040, or, with the subtraction of the 9mm setup from the 550B price, about even.
The big question is: "would I have shot 4k if it cost me $1592 for factory?" No, probably not. So reloading has allowed me to shoot more than I would have, for roughly the same price, with the future of saving $2080/yr in the future, assuming I shoot as much in the future as I do now (in fact, I will probably shoot more.)
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I bought my first machine (a 550B) last August and have loaded about 4K of .45 through it thus far. I load with BBI bullets, Wolf Primers and WST powder. ($100/K bullet + $18/K powder + $25/K primer = $143/K) Wolf is about $400/K for a savings of $1028 versus reloads. The machine has already paid for itself. Accuracy is certainly good enough for our game; and more than fine for my skill level. The faster you buy the machine, the faster you start saving money. Unless you are a very good shooter, or running borderline pressure, the internal dimensions are not anything to be too concerned about. I run all manner of mixed headstamp garbage through and have no issues, and very few cracked cases or other problems.
Heed others' advice: buy the machine now, and don't worry about mixed casings until they start making you worried.
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The biggest deal breaker is gonna be the optic. Unless you want to shoot irons, of course.
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If you have wheels, might want to make the trek up to Kesselrings. About 80 miles north of Seattle, but worth the journey... they have freakin' everything.
And, as Aristotle said, if you want to shoot just let us know. We'll gear you up. matches pretty much every weekend day...
Kesselrings is by far the best. Federal way is also good; atypical "gun store employees." Wades has alot but is very overpriced.
Pike Place is the best; don't forget the Gyros on the main drag, Irish Pub on the alley east of the Market proper, and there is a good Bolivian restaurant on the 2nd deck just at the point where the alley meets the main strip.
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Don't forget the random, ear-piercing, 30 second long whistle blasts just to remind you to do what you were already doing.
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If I mess up and put something too far forward, they'll just tell me to move it back rather than throwing me in open, right?
I have never seen anyone corrected on gear placement, much less thrown to open, no matter how many times I bring it up to the MD. Its really starting to piss me off- I hate having to be the tattle tale because people don't want to follow the rules about mag pouches and 9mm conversion barrels.
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Personally, I am in favor of any stage that I get to use my youth and physical ability to give me an advantage.
If you look at the beginning of the sport, it was physically challenging and that's what made it fun- maybe some impetus to stay in shape instead of buying a new expensive gun would be good for many who play this game. Things like innovative props (Ft. Bragg's bucket of cold water) don't really affect performance as much as people think, but mess with their mindset big time. Other props (Marysville's swinging platform) are great, but rarely used in a (misguided, I think) desire to create and artificially level playing field.
I would like to see a not-legal much more physically challenging match (3 gun perhaps) with different scoring to reward (or punish) shooters based on their physical fitness. "Upon start signal, shooter must perform 30 pushups and engage targets when visible." That would lead down a long and awesome road.
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yes the Marine Corps has started the Combat Marksmanship Team......I should be headed up that way to join the Team as soon as my Medical status clears.........The team is looking to a good one......Youll be seeing more from us soon.
Shoot me a PM if you have any more detail on this please.
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That is awesome- wish I could donate, but alas; MCO P1020.34G Ch.5, (1), (a).
Could do 3 inches, though.
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Wood is more work, but potentially way cheaper. Besides, it guarantees exercise- what's not to like about that. Pellets are alright, but always seemed kinda weird and fake to me.
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Be careful if you are shooting Heavy Metal- if you have a brain fart and load 10 you just bumped yourself to Tactical Irons with a .308 and .45.
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Consistant eye relief and paralax are a big problem I see with my Marines. Ensure you don't have a black shadow on the edge of the lens as you are looking through it. Also, after you make adjustments, give it a few good whacks with something hard.
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Did you have the issues when you shot it?
Sounds like limp wristing like you said.
None at all when I fired it.
The dents were centered, but were not rectangular like normal Glock dents.
I expected FTEs because it is made for a .40 rim and not a 9mm as I did not swap extractors. Anytime something is used for something it is not made for problems occur.
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I have had a LW 9mm conversion barrel in my G22 for a few months and fired a few hundred rounds out of it, with expected FTFs and failure to lock backs. I recently went shooting with a female friend who had many (4-5 out of 20) FTF with it. Each time the primer would have a small circular dent, but no bang. When I manually chambered each round, they all fired. Ammo is Miwall reloads. I am thinking it has something to do with her limp wristing it, but am unsure... any ideas?
It ended up being a good first date regardless.
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Another JPL fan- great gunsmith, awesome shooter and overall good guy. I will have a JPL 6" soon enough...
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Just show up to the door naked. They usually figure out you have better things you could be doing.
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These are the types of answers I am looking for. The purpose of this is to learn!
I am not an expert on this so I want to ask people that are or should be knowledgeable on it.I am trying to learn the Why of why you need to store things a specific way, and not "because that is what I heard So and so say" or "but everyone knows that is true!"
Let me ask a pointed question about the ammo cans that I hope someone can answer. I keep hearing about how it is bad to store primers and powder in them but...doesn't the military do just that with powder storage? Would not the result of a cookoff of a can of bullets with a total of a pound of powder in them be in the same range as that of a pound of smokeless powder in a sealed environment with little air?
I am specifically referring to smokeless and not black powder because I know that there is quite a difference between the two in burn rates and how "excited" a reaction they have. I was always taught the fire triangle. You have to have heat, air, and fuel. If you remove any two of those... poof no fire. If the can is sealed, very limited air supply. If the can is sealed, no heat source can easily be applied to the powder. To me the force of an explosion will be less with just the powder bottle top popping, but the chance of a small fire burning through the bottle is higher in my opinion.
Is there a study somewhere that someone can link to from the military that says one way or the other about ammo cans and what they were designed to do in the case of a "cookoff" event like there would be in a fire?
All this being said, no matter what I agree that if there is a fire where there are "accelerants" like powder and primers they need to be stored "safely" and that is why I am trying to get to a fairly *concrete* answer here, for safety.
The idea isn't that the powder would spontaneously combust, but that an outside heat source (i.e. a house fire) would cause it to explode. Loaded small arms rounds are fairly difficult to cook off compared to bare primers or powder, not to mention not all of them would go off at once; there would be at least momentary gaps between combustions of each round, whereas a single can would go up at once. They are not designed to take fire at all, hence the safety precautions around their storage and use. When dealing with extremely large amounts, tank rounds and naval guns rounds, for example; there is always a venting system of some kind to vent explosive concussion and gas away from the personnel around (M1 Abrams ammo compartment or a destroyer turret elevator system.) A plastic container would be equally as waterproof and would most likely melt open prior to detonation. This can be seen in the industries' swice to plastic containers on powder a while ago.
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My Trojan will eat anything, just check for cracks and gauge from time to time.
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Isn't there a bit of a difference in burn rates and size of charge between a "blasting cap" that sets off an explosive charge and a primer? I agree that both go bang but the degree and energy of the bang I would think would be of a different magnitude.
Since this is getting away from the original thread question I am thinking I should start a new post question on this topic.
*I am not an explosives expert or a chemist*
Absolutely. A blasting cap is a no-kidding explosive, with properties, burn rates and power that come with it. Gun powder is not technically an explosive, but can have explosive properties if ignited in a closed environment (hence firearms and the basis for this forum
) Putting gunpowder inside a sealed steel container is similar enough to a gun barrel and would probably contain the burn long enough for an explosive effect. My guess is that 8 lbs of it would far exceed the power of a single blasting cap containing, at most, half an ounce of explosive. The same goes for primers, which are more explosive than gunpowder, although I don't know if setting one off inside a primer sleeve would mean all in the same sleeve would react.
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I have the powder in one can and the primers in another. The way I figure it, if those cans are designed to take a 30mm or a .223 round "cooking off"... they can handle a primer or two going off
That's a hot negative, an ammo can isn't designed to contain any kind of explosion. A single blasting cap will totally destroy an ammo can; there wouldn't be much left if 8 lbs of powder went up in a sealed metal box.
I am not an expert on this so I want to ask people that are or should be knowledgeable on it.
Brass
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
I am curious about this as well. I only bought a 550, but would have had 2300 bucks left if I had 3400 to blow on reloading... thats alot of primers, bullets and powder. Or a new limited gun.
Just sayin'