jasond
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Posts posted by jasond
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Awesome pick! What are the chances?
I hose down the inside of a bullet box with dillon lube, and then fill it half full of brass and shake until the wife becomes annoyed. That way, no lube can get inside the cases.
I shoot revo, and don't lube my match ammo for it because it picks up trash and keeps the rounds from falling in the gun. I could tumble loaded rounds, but it's easy to get .38 minor through the machine.
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Chewy or Google
Our chocolate is "Brinkley" but she also goes by "Mudpaw" or "BaddogNo!"
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Can an 8 shot 38/357 be converted to a 38super? Thanks,Dave
I think so, but there's no point because you can shoot .38 short colt (even shorter than super) or .38 long colt in it, without modification. You'll get all your brass back, and never wear it out, so your investment in brass lasts forever. There's no real incentive in any of the games to load an 8 shooter to major, either.
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The 8 shot is the right gun for steel. There is an iron sight and an open division, and there isn't a power factor, so you can shoot light bullets. I use the v-comp, but the lighter barrel versions will transition quicker. With no reloads on the clock, you don't need round nose bullets or short cases or anything. I'm shooting 135 moly's in .38 special cases. You will need moon clips or speedloaders, as a courtesy to others waiting to shoot. Have fun!
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Might not want to re-seat a primer if those are loaded rounds. I've never had a primer go when seating it, but I've heard they can.
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Boudreaux and Bubba were enjoying a cold one at Bubba's trailer.
Bubba says, "hey Boudreaux, If you was out fishin, and I went over your trailer, and I ended up in bed with your 'ol lady, and she was to have a child, would that make us kin?"
Boudreax thinks for a moment, and says "Naw, I don't think so Bubba. But it would make us even."
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There's a lot of real estate between the chambers of a 27!
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The stainless brushes sure work better! The ones I have are marked for .357 chambers. Likely the same thing as .375 rifle. I wouldn't ever run one through a barrel, or reverse direction with it inside the gun.
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Something to think about, what makes a j frame hard to hide is the width. Moonclips (which i would think would bend up in a pocket) or speedloaders aren't much easier to conceal than a 2nd revolver. I carry speedstrips, but they're really, really slow.
I usually carry an sp101 in an IWB holster, but I download it with speer short barrel 135grn 357. Full power stuff will twist the gun in my hand, and force me to adjust my grip between shots, unless I have a really good grip and dry hands. They are probably the heaviest 5 shot .357s ever made, keep in mind. Full loads are also super loud and not much faster than .38 out of the little gun.
Sometimes I pocket carry the wife's 642, bought on sale for $350 new. I can't shoot it as well as the sp101, and I can only shoot it reasonably fast with the boot grips if I'm shooting a really weak load. +p's make the grip shift, just like full magnums in the sp101. I put a full size hogue rubber grip on it for her, and that makes it controllable with any .38, but it also makes it too big for a pocket.
I've shot the scandium/ti guns, and I would never carry .357 in them. They're only marginally lighter, but nearly twice the price!
I haven't shot the Ruger lcr, but the only downside I can see to those things is the looks! Yuck!
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My experience with bullseye is that it leaves tons of soft black soot that wipes right off. I'd plan on giving the a cylinder a 15 second dry brushing with a oversize copper brush or a stainless brush, plus a quick brush under the extractor. I also chamber check everything the night before, but that may be a little retentive. Good luck, have fun!
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I'd get my hands on a pretty big pile of scrap to practice on before I messed with any guns!
I haven't done much TIG welding at my new job over the last year, but they have a little Lincoln square wave 150. It's OK for thin stuff, and the gas cooled torch is less clumsy than the water cooled ones I'm used to using on more powerful machines.
We bought a bunch of ESAB machines at my last job - spoolguns, TIGs, and plasma torches. They were a little less than we would have spent on Millers - for the first year or so. All I ever did was throw parts at those things.
My favorite was a Miller 330 "Aircrafter". I've welded both razor blades edge to edge, and 1/2" aluminum plate with that thing!
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The revolver guys, myself included, have tested the low mass hammer thing to death, and the answer is that light hammers need less spring force to light primers. When every shot is DA, we'll go to lengths to make it light!
I haven't messed around with any .22 revolvers, but consensus is that lightened hammers do not work better, and if anything will require more force from the spring. I'd like to know more about why this is, but I don't.
Here's a link to Apex Tactical's revolver parts, check out the difference between the RF and CF hammers:
https://apextactical.com/store/product-list.php?pg1-cid4.html
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My dad has a savage 1907 that bit me - and held on! had to pull back the slide to get my hand out of it's mouth.
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I own a few of each, and the way my pc smith has treated me, I'd go for another Ruger. I haven't shot the lcr, but it's supposed to have a good trigger out of the box. Sure is ugly overall, but I do really dig the machining on the cylinder. S&W is the only company to actually put any effort into building a gun for the competitive shooting community, so I think we're stuck with them for awhile.
The ruger revolvers are a joy to work on compared to the smiths. You don't have to beat them with a screwdriver handle to take them apart!
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That load is probably +p and maybe over, just to make minor. You really want a much heavier bullet than is normal for .38 to make major, so it's not worth trying, especially in a small frame gun. The main thing with a revo is to get the hits and not spend much time reloading - there's no cushion for make up shots.
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Any lead/moly round nose 158-160grs and about 3.5 clays will do the trick, and do it cheap. Titegroup would work, but I don't have a load handy. Just use round nose!
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Always reload on the move, never reload and then move. It's much faster, but watch the 180! Avoid standing reloads. Revo is won and lost on reloads.
I "look" the reloads in by aligning the holes with my eye, if I don't have much or any movement. I'll do it blind if I have to watch where I'm going. The goal is to break the first shot as soon as you plant your feet.
Some guys can use speedloaders as fast as moonclips, but I'm not one of those guys.
Then again, I'm not setting the world on fire, so ymmv. Make up dummies and practice, practice!
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There's a built-in excuse when you shoot a revo and have a bad day, but it feels great to beat up on the bottom feeders when you have a good day!
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I stuck a beer bottle in it before I heatgunned it, plus dremeled away a little plastic. It was way too tight as is.
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I'm too cheap to replace my brass and too lazy to pick up less than 6 or 8 at a time.
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At the titusville florida monthly matches, they have been setting up mostly brand new stages every month, which has kept it interesting. They will rotate through the official 8 courses before the nationals, though. I wouldn't worry too much about having all 8 setups.
It's nice to be able to shoot two classes in one day, one of which being rimfire. They have also started rimfire and pistol caliber carbine classes, adding to the number of types of guns that can be entered. It's also the best action shooting game for new shooters in general, not just youth. Good luck getting started!
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When my wife took her class, some guy had a 8-3/8" .500 mag and when they put the lifesize target out 12' or so, he scattered three in the body, one in the guy's sleeve, and another a few inches left of his arm!
She was a bit nervous, and slid her tray of ammo out upside down! She gathered them back up, and then put a fist size group dead center with my 2-1/4" ruger sp101.
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Adam,
You don't need a special die to change the seating depth, they will all do it. Of course round nose is the only way to go for action type stuff, but full wadcutters seated flush with around 2.5 bullseye generally shoot fantastic in any gun, if a bit dirty. You will likely want a seating stem that's special for them, and I don't like that powder for uspsa/icore/etc because of the soot. I'd also be taper crimping the light stuff, and only using federal primers, as have been mentioned. Good luck!
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Plated bullets are supposed to need a taper crimp, but nearly all .38 dies do a roll crimp (you need a roll crimp to keep the bullets in .357s from jumping out of the case).
I just got my first batch of Billy bullets, and I'm very impressed with the accuracy I've got out of them. I got some 135s and some 160s, and the 160s have the edge.
Reloading Measurement Accuracy, Precision, and Repeatability
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
You'll likely see much more change in accuracy from trying different bullets, powders, and using sorted brass than eliminating the nth degree of tolerance in OAL and charge weight. I occasionally shoot silhouette at up to 200M with a handgun, and don't sweat tolerances like you are seeing! That stuff is for the rifle shooters to worry about.