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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Black Mamba

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    Bob Loesch

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  1. This may sound funny, but try this. Remove the firing pin spring and reverse it. The AGI video says to put the spring on so that it is tight and doesn't fall off. This is the way I did mine after cleaning. I then started having the same problem at a speed steel shoot. I would have one or two rounds per stage that wouldn't fire. Cocking and refiring always worked. If you removed a round after a failure, there was the slightest of indent on the primer. Someone at the club (a STI user) said that the spring was backwards for the STI - he had the same problem. I disassembled between stages and reversed the spring and no longer had a problem. Supposedly there is info on this forum about the same issue, but couldn't find it. Give it a try and let me know.
  2. Merlin - know about Jeff's page, but it hasn't been updated since Oct 2003.
  3. Have been purchasing my 38 super from Atlanta Arms and Ammo (PF=180) for my new STI Trubor. Now that the gun's getting broken in, would like to start reloading vs buying. Also, I'm installing an Aftec and moving from super to super comp. Would like to know what your favorite loads are and PF's (if available).
  4. Just getting into reloading and was wondering how many of you use compressed loads for pistol matches (IDPA, IPSC, steel)? Since load position (towards / away from primer) can make a significant difference (over 100 fps) and could cause one to potentially fail a major check (point pistol down prior to a chrono shot). Also, at matches, do they have a procedure for orientation of the pistol prior to the check or do they just grab, load and shoot? Thanks for any feedback.
  5. Actually, most primers are made with lead styphnate which can be neutralized by dropping them into a sodium carbonate solution. Lead azide reacts too easily with copper to form unwanted azide compounds.
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