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pmt

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Posts posted by pmt

  1. If you like the slide auto forwarding when you insert a magazine, rock on but be aware that MOST shooters do NOT want this to happen and it is most definitely NOT a feature.

    +1

    I have never felt that using the slide stop has slowed me down in the least.

    It amazes me the large percentage of the gun shooting population who believe that the way to close a slide is to pull back on the slide. For example http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gp39PdBbDL0

    That is an acceptable way of closing the slide.

  2. It makes slide lock reloads super fast UP until the point where you end up with an empty chamber..and you will...and it sucks.

    CZC reprofiles the slide stop to allow the use of long bullets, ie 147's. The unmodified slide stops generally hit the nose of the round. They reduce the slide stop to prevent this. There are pictures online if you want to google it.

    If you like the slide auto forwarding when you insert a magazine, rock on but be aware that MOST shooters do NOT want this to happen and it is most definitely NOT a feature.

    Do you speak for most shooters? I know I want this to happen.

  3. Would either of these work for what you want? I have a bunch of midway ones for reloading practice, and one brass one for each shotgun for storage.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/776843

    http://www.opticsplanet.com/pro-shot-brass-snap-caps-12-gauge-semi-auto-two-per-package-12semi-sc.html

    The problem with either of those is the price. Putting a dozen of those on your belt to practice reloads is $$$$$.

  4. 3-Gun (Multi-Gun) Match: Saturday December 14th

    We are going to try getting started before 8am. New shooters should come in time to attend the New Shooter Orientation at 8:30am before they shoot. We run this match under IMA rules. To get a feel for what to expect, check out these videos from our previous matches. Our usual format is 3 short-range shotgun and/or rifle stages, plus 1 long-range rifle stage. Bring 150 rounds of rifle ammo, 50 shotgun birdshot (#6 or smaller) and box each of shotgun slugs and buckshot (12ga=00 buck, 20ga=#3 buck). Sometimes we incorporate a few pistol shots into the stages, so a pistol/holster/ammo can be useful, but this is always optional (typically the same targets can be engaged by rifle or shotgun instead).

    Will I be able to get by with extra birdshot (#7 1/2) in lieu of the box of buckshot? i have watched this match in the past - just haven't shot it yet.

    Thanks.

  5. YMMV, load at your own risk.

    1.090" OAL

    mixed brass

    federal small pistol primers

    4.05 to 4.1 grains Hogdgon Titegroup

    very light crimp

    Bullets:

    xtreme 124 plated

    montana gold 124 jhp

    montana gold 124 cmj

    mid atlantic 125 lead

    bbi 125 RN moly

    precision 125 cone moly

    zero 125 rounded jhp

    zero 125 cone jhp

    zero 125 cone cmj

    rainier 125(?) cmj

    bayou 125 moly

    set up my press with a seat die that nets about 1.090", and i usually don't adjust it between different bullets. seems to work fine with no adjustments.

    chrono is usually 136-138 on the dot all year round. the higher PF means i never worry (went to the chrono more than a dozen times one year at majors) and also works great on big steel that needs extra oomph.

    also helps keep me awake while i shoot. :cheers:

    4.0 - 4.1 gr Titegroup with any 124ish gr bullet is a very common load for a lot of 9mm pistols. I use the same in my H&K USP and it works well my friends Glock 17.

  6. The "3 Gun Stuff" lever that I ordered with my Primary Arms 1-6 is a cheap piece of shit plastic that broke during installation tonight

    As for the scope, although it was wrapped in bubble wrap, it rolled out of the USPS Priority Mail box when I opened it. The actual scope box was a broken mess.

    So far, I'm not impressed...and i haven't been to the range yet.

    If it was broken in shipping that is a shipping problem not a scope one. As for the three gun stuff lever did you follow the directions?

    Pat

    There are no directions for the lever. It's in small zip-lock bag with a 3Gun Stuff business card. Written on the back of the card in black marker is 'PA 1-6". The install is straight forward - remove the screw, flex the lever ring slightly to fit over the end of the scope, position over the mag ring, insert & tighten screw. The lever ring was a tight fit on the mag ring, and while tightening the screw, the ring broke. Like I said - cheap plastic shit.

    Edit to add: the lever ring measures 1.6" ID, the scope mag ring is 1.655" OD. The interference of.055" is too much.

    It would be a shipping problem if the outer USPS shipping box was damaged - it was not. Someone dropped a damaged scope box in the shipping box. The scope itself does not appear damaged.

  7. The "3 Gun Stuff" lever that I ordered with my Primary Arms 1-6 is a cheap piece of shit plastic that broke during installation tonight

    As for the scope, although it was wrapped in bubble wrap, it rolled out of the USPS Priority Mail box when I opened it. The actual scope box was a broken mess.

    So far, I'm not impressed...and i haven't been to the range yet.

    Edit to add:

    I was disappointed that the scope lever was polymer. There is no indication of this on the PA website 1-6 scope page - only on the page showing all of the levers. Chris (3 Gun Stuff) has contacted me and offered to send a replacement.

  8. Mind posting a picture of this when you have time?

    I've got a 21" with a Nordic +4. It looks fine.

    Since the pics I have a few Carlson chokes which adds 3/4" to the barrel. I also just added the HiViz TriComp fiber optics.

    IMG_20130928_084251_517-1_zps3685ab9d.jp

    IMG_20130928_084319_963-1_zpsf5edf633.jp

    Be careful with the clamp that close to the end of the barrel. The barrel wall is thinner (where the choke tube fits in) and its possible to tighten the clamp to the point that the choke tube will not go in/out.

    I was aware of that when I installed the clamp - no problems. The Nordic tube is undercut in that location, so that's the only place it will clamp on the barrel.

  9. Mind posting a picture of this when you have time?

    I've got a 21" with a Nordic +4. It looks fine.

    Since the pics I have a few Carlson chokes which adds 3/4" to the barrel. I also just added the HiViz TriComp fiber optics.

    IMG_20130928_084251_517-1_zps3685ab9d.jp

    IMG_20130928_084319_963-1_zpsf5edf633.jp

  10. From the price range you posted, I assume you want to replace the upper assembly (upper receiver, barrel, gas block , handguard + small parts).

    For that, you will need to check on the diameter of the pivot (front takedown) pin. Colts manufactured between 1991 and 2009 are called "large pin" guns. The pivot pin is .315" in diameter. Colts before 1991 and after 2009 plus ARs of most (possibly all) other manufacturers use a smaller (0.25" diameter) pin. There are "conversion" pins that can make the large pin lower compatible with small pin upper.

    There are numerous vendors that offer complete uppers in your price range. A lot of it has to do with what you want to accomplish. Will you be hosing paper targets at club matches closer than 100 yards or do you plan on a prairie dog hunt with shots beyond 500 yards?

    Give us some info and we can give you a better answer.

    Bill

    Exactly, my plan was to just replace the upper with a complete assembly.

    The front pin is a two-part screw at .315" diameter.

    As for what I want to accomplish - club matches with most paper at 50yds or closer, but with occasional stages from 250yds out to 400yds.

    Maybe I'll just keep the JP compensator, and replace everything.

    Thanks.

  11. I'm not going to ask 'which upper should I buy?' There are many varied opinions on what's best, depending on your need.

    I've got an older Colt AR15A2 with a 20" barrel. A cheek weld is more like laying my chin on the butt stock to find the scope. I would prefer to install a flattop upper rather than replace the gun. I'm looking at Bushmaster/DPMS/CMMG/RRA in the $400-$600 range, 16" or 18", to be used for monthly club shooting 2G/3G.

    My question is: Is there any certain brand or model I should stay away from? i konw there will be a lot of opinions on this as well, but think Yugo, or Ford Pinto. I've read a lot of posts where shooters describe why they like their particular setup, but no one has said "my XXX upper really sucks, don't buy one"

    I'm assuming that in the price range I've set, most of them are the same as the others. I'm an old, slow running guy just getting into this game, so every little advantage is not necessary. I'm just out to shoot & have fun.

    Any advice is appreciated.

  12. We have started to work on our backorders. If interested in ordering I would make a guess for late Dec to be ready.

    Have you started making calls for orders placed this summer?

  13. Thx for all the inputs. As with my G34 I had to play around with spring combos to get it right so I suspect I'll be trying the lighter springs just to see. If Feds were to become mandatory with a certain spring combo that would make the decision easy as I don't want to have that req't any more ...

    according to CZC their shipment of pistols arrives this week which means they should be able to clear out all their custom orders by the end of Nov ... not too much longer to wait ...

    I think your statement should read "according to CZC a shipment of pistols arrives this week which means they should be able to clear out some of their custom orders by the end of Nov ... not too much longer to wait for a few lucky people ..."

    I understand it's a very long waiting list.

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