born-in-45
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Posts posted by born-in-45
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I have a SVI LDC 40 that I am having trouble with the slide lock randomly locking the slide back. Some times it will happen every other round 4 or 5 times in a row. Other times it will be a single occurance. Some times the entire mag will run with no problem. Happens on different mags and with different number of rounds left in mags. The kicker is that the gun has been set up for no slide lock back. The slide lock tab has been ground back and the followers have also been relieved. Also, have put enough of a detent in the back of the slide stop that it takes a fair amount of effort to manually engage the slide lock. Can't see where the mag or bullets are hitting the slide stop. Completely mystifies me. All reason says this sucker should never lock back but....
By the way bullets are Precision 185 RNF's with a AOL of 1.190 (may vary as much as .005 either way - 1.185 to 1.195). Gun had been working flawlessly until the past two weeks. Did a Search but didn't find anything that helped. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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When I got into reloading, my first setup came from Brian and my most recent (650) came from Brian. Besides the slight dollar savings on an order, the great help/resource available to select the right components, and the fact Brain is a great guy you can trust, there is another reason to "Buy Brian". The forums mentioned earlier have saved me money/time/frustration in many areas other than just reloading. I suspect many others could say the same thing. I'll always be a loyal Brian customer/supporter simply because of the value I get from the forums. Without Brian's web site, I would have spent more money, more time, and experienced more frustration. Heck, who needs a coffee shop when we have the Enos Forums.
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Lee, hope this helps in making your decision:
1) I use the FCD in both my 550 and 650. You just replace the Dillon die in the respective station. You do NOT need an additional station for this setup.
2) While the 650 caliber change isn't too onerous, it is more involved and time consuming than the 550.
3) Check the cost of 550 vrs 650 Caliber Conversion Kits as that will be your primary additional expense loading multiple calibers.
4) Convience costs. Many folks who load multiple calibers will have separate head assemblies/dies/powder measure tube to simplify and spped up the change process. But you can add these as you feel the need. Note: if going this route, again compare 550 to 650 costs for components.
Personally, if I only had one loader the decision would come down to how many calibers I wanted to load and the quanity. Get the 550 if you have several calibers and will be switching back and forth frequently. Get the 650 if you are only loading a single caliber or you load your secondary calibers infrequently. For me the 650 is set up to run .40 and the 550 is used for all other calibers. This gives me the best of both worlds. The 1050 is a major jump (in price) and I just couldn't justify it for the quanity of .40 I shoot.
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SOLVED - thanks Smokey. It was the trigger guard screws. They were sticking out just a little but enough to cause the drag. Screws were tight so I just filed down the connecting collar a bit, reassembed with the screws - now they are flush with the trigger guard and the draw is as smooth as my Limcat. No drag!
Thanks guys! I was just about ready to send it back but figured there had to be a solution since so many folks are pleased with the Ghost.
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Just got a Ghost Utimate for my STI but am having a issue with it. Got angles adjusted to my satisfaction (very easy to accomplish with Ghost) but the one thing I am not satisfied with is the tension when I draw. The gun seems to "snag" a little causing the holster to actually pull before completely releasing. It isn't a big deal but certainly is noticable (along with the click it makes when it actually releases - assume noise is the steel ball reseating once the trigger guard clears it). My Limcat is totaly smooth on the draw and that is what I was expecting from the Ghost.
Sooo, is there something I can adjust to make the Ghost completely smooth or is some holster movement/tension par for the course with a Ghost?
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I too checked into "sleeving" the Para but even Smiths who are experts on the Para couldn't help (sleeve wall would be too thin). I was down to pulling/cleaning the extractor after every match. Finally, I emailed Para with a request for a replacement and they sent me a new extractor head and a couple springs free of charge. Replacement has solved the problem for now but I suspect it is just a matter of time.
I don't know if there is enough meat in the slide to allow drilling/reaming the extractor hole to a large enough size to allow a sleeve with sufficient wall thickness to be inserted. If so, some enterprising machinist could likely make a bundle doing retrofits
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I also use the Wilson 47DE's (8 rounds) for Single Stack and the CM Power Mags (10 rounders) for Limited 10. Both have functioned flawlessly. The CM Power Mags are by far the best buy for the dollar (haven't tried their 8 rounders) from MidwayUSA.
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Yesterday I replaced one of my 550's with a 650 (just couldn't justify the price difference for the 1050, with KISS unit of course, for my level of shooting). But I am impressed with the 650, quite a difference in speed from the 550. Thanks to the forum, I was able to make a couple "enhancements" immediately. The first time I loaded a shell and advanced the shell plate I noticed the "bang and clang" advance that tends to spill powder. So, I go to the forum and presto the very first entry under the 650 Tips is the fix (cut spring half coil). Of course I read the rest of the tips and think, surely by now Dillon has fixed the primer spillage problem. Nope - I had the same problem and used the tips on the forum to "fix" it.
The only other problem I encountered in my first run of 500 was a few primers being crushed on one side as they were being seated or not seating at all. It seemed the primer disc wasn't quite centered in the shell plate thus the shell's primer hole and the primer were not quite aligned. A little reading didn't show a way to advance the disc a few thousands to center it. I adjusted the Primer Station Locator Tab but it didn't resolve the problem, so I bent the tab to create a slight bit more angle and viola, the problem is fixed. Last 300 rounds loaded without a single hiccup - no spilled powder, no primers on the floor, and no crushed/fail to seat primers.
Think I am addicted now, got to sign off and go load another 1000.
Thanks guys for the tips.
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If you get the Frankford Vibra-Prime (do it), you can save the $18 you are planning to spend for the package of large primer pick up tubes - not needed. I got the Vibra-Prime when I first started loading and have never used a primer pick up tube.
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A 1 gallon zip lock bag is great (and quick) for lubing your brass before loading. Just throw a 100 or 200 pieces of brass in the zip lock, spray in a couple shots of One-Shot, zip shut, shake a couple times and presto - brass is ready for the loader. You won't be disappointed getting the Vibra-Prime. It's a real time saver.
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I'm a "newbie" in that I hadn't shot a gun (other than a 22 hunting rabbits 50 years ago) until about a year ago. Went to a USPSA local match with my son who wanted to shoot it. By the end of the match, just watching, I was hooked. Since then I have been shooting our local club's monthly match. I am one of those "close the left eye and sight with the right" - thought that was the way it was done. If I tried to keep both eyes open everything became fuzzy/double (was focusing on aligning the front/rear sight).
Well today, I go to see a buddy at the shop and we get to talking about last weekend's match (he's an "A" shooter). I told him I couldn't understand how he and the local GM/M's could acquire and shoot so fast. He says, "you're using both eyes, right?". Well I fess up and he tells me if I will just focus on the exact spot I want to hit on a target, the sights will pretty much align when I bring the gun up.
Is he pulling my leg.....I go home and try what he told me. Lo and behold it actually works! I try it a number of times and it is uncanny how the sights seem to automatically line up. Can't wait to go to the range tomorrow for some live fire testing. Doesn't seem like it would work but by golly, dry firing it seems to. Come on Sun, go down and then come up so I can head to the range.
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...The only negatives I've seen with my P16 mags have been the resistance to removal of their current protective coating and the garbage springs I got in the last pair of mags I bought from Dawson. They have a parkarized (sp?) look to them.
Threw my Para tubes in my Dillon "vibrator" for a 6 hour stint and when they came out there was no protective coating left. Actually left a relatively nice polished surface. Lazy but effective.
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Lady on our squad starts shooting and all of a sudden she is jumping around, gun in one hand and the other swiping at her nose. Yep, ejected brass actually went up the old nostrile (no her nose wasn't all that big). Sure put an instant blister on the inside edge though. Still can't figure out how she did it but it does make you a little nervouse when you're the next one up.
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I had this problem as a new shooter and due to not being able to get the hang of adjusting my grip to hit the mag release with my right thumb, I started using my left thumb to hit the mag release as I released to grab a mag. Having done it for a while I found that I was losing little if any time on a mag change - it just became a natural motion for me. People who see me use my left thumb can not believe it - they can't distinguish the motion or time required from a typical right thumb "release".
That said, I did purchase the STI mag catch button which now allows me to use my right thumb for mag release - makes me feel normal but not sure it is any faster.
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You might try Brazoscustom.com (or 1911store.com) as Bob sells Bar-Sto barrels.
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I have had success using a heat gun set on high. Might take a little longer to heat but don't have much worry of applying too much. Sounds like yours might be a little tougher but if you have a heat gun, give it a try. I like the toaster oven idea - might just have to go out and buy a dedicated one for the shop. Amazing what you learn on this forum.
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The Chip McCormick Shooting Star 38 Super mags seem to have an outstanding track record for reliability and you can load 10 rounds of 9mm in them. I too have heard the Springfield mags work well but don't have any actual experience with them.
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I too use stock Para followers and springs with Dawson +2 pads. The only time I have experienced a problem was when I let the mags get dirty (gritty powder around here gets into everything). With the Dawson base pads, it is quite simple to clean the mags every couple stages and the result has been zero problems. Besides the normal cleanup/polishing, I also use mag slick when I do my after match mag cleanup. Finally, about once a quarter, I restretch the springs a little to maintain the spring tension. Have two years on the combo with great results. I would stick with the Para mags as you can load an extra round or 2 over the S_I approach.
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Had a stage where it only required 2 mags so I figured why load myself down with extra mags. One mag in the gun and one on the belt. The shooter's "box" was walled in by 4' high walls and of course there were a few laydown targets right behind the walls. I start blasting away and when it comes time for the mag change I slam it in, lean over the barrier to hit a laydown and the mag promptly drops out. So there I stand with an empty gun and a full mag laying on the other side of the wall out of my reach. Didn't score too well on that stage but learned my lesson. Load every pouch with a full mag before going to the line.
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All this talk about 650's and 1050's has me drooling all over myself again. I started reloading a little over a year ago and currently have 2 550's, one for 40 and the other for 45 or whatever else needs doing. Since my son and I are both shooting Limited, I have been thinking the past couple days that any "sane" person would see the wisdom of swapping a 550 for a 650 or 1050. BUT...
My "candy store eyes" say go for the 1050, but... then I look at the price difference of a 1050 to 650 and try to apply wisdom or maturity or something like that which says we're not consuming enough ammo to justify a 1050 and the extra $700 plus greenies, but... hasn't life taught me to always go for what you really want and the price paid will dim over time while the enjoyment will stay, but... $700 buys an awful lot of bullets/powder/brass, but... maybe $700 doesn't buy that much...
Jeeze, how does a person really decide which way to go??? Come on, there has to be a magic answer out there!!! Maybe I'll go to church next Sunday instead of the range, but...
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I don't believe the primer is sticking on the decapping pin and getting pulled back in. My reasoning is the fact that some of the primers are actually having the top knocked out (separated) while the sides stay in the primer pocket. It is more like the primers are corroded in. I am leaning towards this being my last batch of Speer unless I start seeing the problem appear with other headstamps.
Thanks for the replies. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't overlooking something simple.
THANKS
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I am experiencing a problem with Speer brass where the primer is not getting popped out on the depriming stroke (Dillon 550) or just the top of the primer is being snapped off leaving the side portion in the case. This is quite sporadic but I usually see 1 to 10 instances per 100 brass.
Any ideas on what is the problem? Have only experienced it with Speer brass. I did put in a new pin and it seemed to help for awhile but since the problem is so random, I'm not sure it actually improved.
My first thought was that perhaps some of the brass has the military crimp but I don't know how to tell such. What should I be looking for?
Thanks
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I'm 55, and mainly shoot revolvers in IDPA, where there's a 4" limit on barrel length. I broke out my old 6" M14 for a USPSA match a while ago, and the two inches added to the sight radius almost felt like cheating, the front sight was so clear. Anything you can do to increase the sight radius would help.
Hmmmmm! Wonder if I can make that one fly by the wife? I been wanting to try one of Bennie's Fat Free 6" but couldn't come up with a good excuse as to why I "had to have" another gun. Think I may see if that one will fly....
"Honey, I could jump at least one class, maybe two, can GM be far away; if I just had a Bennie 6"er to clear up this vision problem that is keeping me from....."
Might just be worth the potential black eye or kick in the....
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Probably the biggest adjustment you will have moving from IDPA to USPSA is the stage design philosophy. Good USPSA stages give you multiple ways to shoot the stage. Higher round counts are normal but not required to develop a fun USPSA stage. If you haven't already, check out the "Stage Comments or Questions" subforum under "Shooting Discussions" as there is a lot of good information in there including a post titled "Stage Exchange" where you can get ideas for stages.
We have several Word/Excel forms, from a Waiver to Sign-In to Squading to.... that I would be willing to email copies to you. If interested just drop me a PM.
Slide Lock Randomly Engaging
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
I don't believe so. The slide lock is quite hard (considerable thumb preassure) to manually activate due to detent put in end of slide lock. Just don't see how I could inadvertantly put sufficient preassure on the slide lock during firing since it is so hard to engage manually. This is a real puzzler to me.