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practical_man

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Posts posted by practical_man

  1. CC

     

    years ago i briefly experimented with 45 AR and the HKS speed loaders. It worked ok but accuracy of the AR was less than stellar in my 45. 
     

    if you like i can dig up some AR brass for you to try in you loaders. If you’re coming to this weekend’s match i can give them to you there. 
     

    I’m new to ICORE so I don’t know how they apply the rule book. I was considering having Toolguy cut my 586 for moons and shooting it in both Limited 6 and Classic. As I read the rule that would be disallowed, but I don’t know. Maybe Dave has some experience with this sort of thing.
     

    -john

  2. Joe

     

    i only have one allchin mount. It required a fair amount of adjustment to get it to fit properly. Dykem is your friend for such things. 
     

    In my case i assess it was just a case of tolerance stacking. These things happen from time to time. 

  3. 20 hours ago, Toolguy said:

    I put a 507c on my 627 with an Allchin mount. I don't know if a 510 is the same as a 507. I ended up having to mill the bottom of the mount on a 1 degree angle with the front higher than the rear, because the 507 dot is angled down 1 degree for semi auto pistols where the barrel is pointing down 1 degree when in battery, and level when the slide is open.

     

    I couldn't sight in the elevation until I did that. One degree doesn't seem like much, but it is 15 inches at 25 yards and 30 inches at 50 yards. The Allchin mount is a good quality product. This is not the fault of the mount. The mount is made for dots that are calibrated for a zero degree barrel, not an angled down towards the front barrel.

    Warren, thanks for explaining that issue. I was wondering why I had to shim the mount on my revo to get the Holosun 509 to zero at 50 yds

  4. 17 hours ago, Couch-Commando said:

    Awesome, just ordered the parts. Warren, I'll contact you to set up a time when they arrive. Thanks again for offering to help!

     

    ETA: I discovered another problem. My wife got me an Alpha X holster. It works great, except that my trigger is too wide. When I put the gun in the holster, the trigger gets pulled. I removed the trigger to test the holster.

     

    Now I need to decide, is is safe to widen the holster insert above the locking mechanism to accomodate the half inch trigger, or should I get a narrower trigger before setting up a time to fit the hand and cylinder stop? The trigger is a half inch wide serrated trigger. After taking measurements, a .400 trigger should work without modification to the holster. I'm thinking a .400 smooth trigger might suit me better. I like wide triggers, but don't like serrated ones.

     

    For DA work i really like a narrow and smooth trigger. You might try one before you decide. 
     

    you can grind yours to narrow it and take the serrations off easily enough. I’ve done it a couple times. Warren can do it quickly and neatly. He might also have a trigger or two in his parts bins. 

  5. CC-

    i have the agi video. It’s not very good. I learned much more from Warren. He’s a great revolver builder and will teach you everything you need to know to keep one running. 
     

    Make an appointment with him. Take your parts over and he will show you what you need to know. It will be the best time and $ you’ve spent in a while. A much better value than any video lesson.  In fact, i need to get over to visit with him myself. 

     

    -john

  6. CC

     

    Congratulations on the new baby. We have had a bunch of those over they years.  They’re all unique little blessings and loads of fun while they’re small. Less fun when the age gets to double digits, but still a blessing. 
     

    On K frames vs others. I’m no expert compared to some of the guys on here. I like the K frames. I shot a model 14 pretty often before I quit chasing DR points because of eyesight deterioration. That revolver has been drilled and tapped for an optic mount by the states most skilled machinist. It now serves duty as the coyote pistol out on the tractor. One killed last spring and one this fall. K frames will do the job if I do my part. 
     

    That said, the K frame forcing cone is the weak link. I’ve seen more than one cracked forcing cone in PPC and Bullseye guns. It happens even with standard pressure loads. Barrels are cheap so don’t let that scare you off. 
     

    The model 15 is generally a 4” gun. I’m sure you can find longer barrels because S&W has made all kinds of variants of everything. 


    All that given, I like the L frame for durability. They aren't cheap these days. 
     

    no experience with the 9mm revolvers. 

  7. CC

     

    I’ve made a couple kydex holsters during the cold and dark winter months. For mounting attachement, i used a small block of wood under the revolver.  Modeling clay stolen from the kids helps hold everything in place during forming. 
     

    i haven’t been entirely happy with the results of holster forming. Thin Kydex is easier to form, but not very rigid for a holster. Thicker kydex is harder to form and would benefit from more rigid fixtures than clay. You might have better luck tho. 
     

    You can buy a forming plate for the TechLoc that doubles as a drilling guide. I light try to fab something similar out of scrap this winter. 

  8. Verla

     

    For a generic stock with a thru hole, like a Remington 870 for example, apply some Kroil or other quality penetrating oil overnight.
     

    Then apply an impact shock to break the rust loose. I have used a small socket on the end of a long extension. A few raps with a heavy hammer usually breaks things loose. 
     

    if that doesn’t work, put it in the deep freeze overnight. 
     

    What gun are you working on?

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