arcsign
-
Posts
35 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by arcsign
-
-
Are you running particularly tall rings? Had an issue with an air rifle (weird comparison, but hear me out), where I couldn’t get enough elevation to even zero properly with tall rings, but worked fine with shorter ones. Distances involved are obviously different, but .17 pellets have an enormous amount of drop even at 75-100 yards, so maybe relevant.
-
Running a 507 comp on a prodigy, but only 250 rounds through it so far, seems nice enough; can’t speak to durability though.
-
Definitely an odd decision on Sig’s part to release an OR 1911. I keep
hopingdaydreaming that they’ll do an optic ready double stack P210 target at some point… if you’re going to do something weird, might as well go all the way. -
Someone mentioned elsewhere that the easiest thing to do is just run the slide lock with your support hand thumb… I hadn’t tried that, and yeah, it’s much better that way. (Apologies if you are already aware of this.)
Meanwhile, slide stops extended in one direction or another are available from the usual suspects: atlas, Ed brown, Wilson, EGW, Cheely, etc. I keep using Ben Stoeger pro shop and shooter’s connection to get overviews of what parts are available, since they seem stock most of the major brands, so would check those sites under their 2011 -> slide stop sections.
As for fitting… for slide stops, it seems like ordering the correct diameter and pin length gets you most of the way there, with some potential work required on the hold open lug, clearance from the slide, and corners/back face. (Was just reading a bit about this in Kuhnnhausen’s books yesterday, but brain refuses to return more information than that.)
-
On 3/1/2024 at 2:56 PM, Ajohnson15 said:
I mean publicly there’s been 3 different modules shown.
I went poking around yesterday, but couldn’t find a third module; only the full size rail and compact no-rail. -
Does anybody else find it odd that CZ/DW would go through the trouble to develop a modular serialized part for the DWX (however gorgeous it may be) without any apparent intent to use it elsewhere? It seems like a lot of effort for two models unless they have something planned further down the line… and I haven’t really seen/heard whisperings of anything along those lines.
-
The lighting looks like it makes a huge difference color-wise. Not sure I would have guessed that was the same gun.
-
Good to know, thank you both!
Sandflea, Did you use the included titanium spring or swap it out like Monster did?
-
That color scheme came out great!
As far as the upgrades go… I think I’m going to run mine mostly as-is (replaced mag catch button with one tapped for a button extension), maybe add a magwell, for the time being and see how it goes.
May also give a shot at very lightly polishing/sanding/deburring stock parts (no power tools, just high 1000+ grit sandpaper and 0000 steel wool to smooth things out)… though, even 250 rounds in it already feels smoother, and trigger feels better than it did out of the box…
-
On the mag pouches, holster, belt, etc, I went with:
- DAA ratchet double belt (the regular kind not the lynx kind)
- BSPS Huron carbon fiber boss holster by long shadow
weird name, but it’s the package with :- the long shadow Huron holster in carbon-like kydex-ish material
- BOSS drop and offset holder/bracket
- thigh pad (definitely don’t skip this, hanger is pointy otherwise)
- standard/stock belt mount for the hanger (didn’t want to mess with quick change belt attachment systems)
The holster itself fits the 5 inch prodigy with a 507 comp very closely/nicely. No extra space or rattle, but default retention screw settings are a little soft for my liking.
- 2x DAA Alpha-Xi mag pouches
I went with the normal style holster even for LO because I don’t have experience drawing from any holster, and didn’t want to start with an open/race style holster. Retention on the 5 inch prodigy seems good enough, I guess, but I’m not sure I’d try doing forward rolls or jumping a lot without cranking the tensioners down a bit more. It does seem like it will do the job nicely for USPSA stuff though.
I will probably order the ball joint thing that goes with the boss hanger; skipped it initially, but seems like it’d be useful for getting the geometry of things sorted out.
I forgot to order magnets, either direct belt mount or mount to the Alpha-Xi holders, but will likely do so soonish.
Anyhow, take this all with a grain of salt, since I haven’t gotten to try a match with this gear yet (or at all, so…). Choices were largely made based on what I’ve seen mentioned around these forums and seen on match or training videos.
-
Yeah, from what I can tell the white stuff on the grip is probably skin; kind of annoying/gross. Some of it comes off with a wipe down with microfiber or cotton t-shirt type cloth… for the rest… maybe use tape to pick it up?
For keyboard wrist rests that do this, I’ve usually used rubbing alcohol, cloths, and sometimes a scraper, but unsure how that would work here. Some experimentation required, probably.
-
Was watching IPSC rifle videos the other day, and some shooters were using the coupled mag as a bipod (in addition to the other bipod or two they were running. Definitely seems like a situational thing.
I could maybe see the coupled mag getting in the way sometimes if you ran it all the time; seems more snag prone than longer mags (not offset to hang up) or drums (cone/cylinder shape)… also wonder if the mass of the offset messes with handling and recoil impulse enough to make it annoying to run them all the time.
-
On 12/9/2023 at 4:50 PM, zzt said:
My bad. I said second video, because that was the second one I watched. It was actually the MythBusters video. In the MythBusters video, the slide started to move before the bullet exited in the :10-11 frame. It has not moved in the :38-39 frame when the bullet was out of the barrel. The slide moves at the start of :40. Neither is an optical illusion, so what gives?
Digging up an old thread, but after watching through it a couples of times on .25x, I’m pretty sure the clip at :38-:39 starts later in the firing cycle than the one at :10. Looks like there are only a handful of frames before the bullet comes out, so maybe just an editing thing.Either that or, visually speaking at least, there is a pause in the movement as the pin on the barrel side of the link cams over the slide stop… but I might be misunderstanding the relative positions of the two at rest, after firing, while locked, and during unlocking…
-
Huh. I was looking at these a couple of weeks ago, but couldn’t decide if I liked the styling… it’s kind of grown on me though, especially after seeing some of the color combinations/variations. ‘Feels similar to an Infinity’ seems pretty promising.
-
Looks nice with that grip, shame about the accuracy issues though.
-
Seems like it, yeah.
Minor update
Put some more rounds through it today:
50 Winchester white box 115 fine
50 blazer 124 meh
40 federal am eagle 124 also meh
50 s&b 115gr best of the bunch
No issues with operation at all, and the optic stayed tight after yesterday’s great screw sanding adventure. The gun seems very accurate, but it’s hard to say for sure, since I am not particularly accurate.
-
Figure I’ll stack my early rounds review/write-up in here rather than add another thread.
Picked up a 5 inch Prodigy about 2 weeks ago, finally had a chance to shoot it yesterday. Serial number is in the 12xxx region, and it appears to have the lightening cuts inside the slide that showed up on later revisions. Cerakote is a bit meh along one side where it doesn’t look as evenly applied… but I didn’t really notice it until I went to clean it, so not a big deal.
This being my first 2011, I don’t have much to compare it to as far as fit and finish go. No hot spots or pokey bits around the beavertail (Or anywhere else). Rails on the back almost disappear when the slide is closed, extractor circle slightly proud of rear surface.
Initially there was no play on the slide in any direction, but after a week and half of dry-fire, 2 cleanings, and a trip to the range there is very minor side-to-side play at the very front; can feel it if I try to make it happen, but eyeballing it, it’s maybe a sheet of paper thickness worth of movement. Assume that’s just the Cerakote wearing in.
Have seen things like barrel lockup mentioned, but not sure how to measure that. Barrel has no play within the slide, which seems… good?
Trigger and mag release were a bit gritty, I assume just from drag on the grip module; trigger is smoothing out pretty quickly though. No issues with safety or slide stop.
Installed a 507 comp using the correct plate. Plate torqued to 25 in/lbs per manual, optic to 15 in/lb. Screws that came with the 507comp were either a couple threads too short or a couple of threads too long. I went with the short ones, but they ended up loose by the end of my range session (optic screws only, plate screws were fine)… which probably explains why I was having such a hard time getting it zeroed. I had been concerned about the length, checked the sight a couple of times, but alas…
Took it back apart last night to clean; removed the plate, took two of the longer optic screws, and filed/sanded them down until they no longer poked out the bottom of the plate. Reinstalled plate, cleaned the holes, added a little bit of vibratite, put the optic back on, vibratite, etc. Plate to 26 in/lbs for good luck, optic to 20 in/lb (up from 15). Hopefully the extra engagement and torque help. Also checked for any wear on the tips of the plate screws or the top of the extractor that might indicate rubbing… everything looked good.
Some range results…
100rds Winchester white box 115gr
10 rds S&B 115 gr (ran out of time)
4x 20 rd mags
1 failure to cycle that was my doing; way too soft on the grip trying to get it to stay still on the bag to sight at 25yards.
1 jam of some kind, probably also bag related (haven’t shot a pistol off a bag before, sooo…).Groups looked great… just a bit variable in where they ended up due to the optic issues.
Easily the nicest shooting pistol I’ve ever used, even amongst the chaos of trying to learn how to set up a pistol red dot, how to shoot off of a bag to do so, first time back at the range in almost a year, etc and so forth.
So. Summary version:
- it’s awesome
- no issues that I’m inclined to blame on the gun itself
- optic loosened but plate was fine, fixed hopefully for next time
- looking forward to next range trip so I can pay less attention to optic set up and more to just shooting
-
Has anybody tried the SVI ignition kit for the Prodigy? How’d it work out? Rough trigger pull weight? I definitely don’t want to go below 2, and probably not below 3-3.5 ish…
https://store.sviguns.com/staccato-adjustable-trigger-kit-clone.aspx
(ignore the page name, title and description both say prodigy)
I know SVI has a generally sterling reputation, but am a bit wary of a titanium sear spring with a ball bearing in it; don’t hear of titanium used as a spring material very often…
-
Not that far along yet here, just the 507comp and plate; haven’t had a chance to shoot it yet. Once I do and confirm working/all set, I’ve got a drilled/tapped mag release and a button for it.. and that’s probably it for the time being. Want to get a magwell, but more for ergos and aesthetics than anything else.
-
I have to admit I’m a little confused on the Briley Prodigy thing… the name is familiar, but unclear what it offers for 1780ish on top of the base price.
questionable stuff:The beavertail swap seems… random.
Safety replaced, but not with a shielded one, lateral move maybe, also the cheaper package removes the ambi part…Vortex Defender + plate seems like a strange choice.
Replace stock green fiber with new green fiber?
neutral impact:
steel mainspring housing
guide rod/keyed plug (req’d due to barrel swap)
performance impact, maybe:
EGW light hammer ignition kit… okay, fine popular enough
match barrel
spherical bushing
Drop the cost of the defender and plate 250 and 90ish respectively… assume we want to keep it ambi, that version is 1784.94
1444.94 …
EGW kit is 135, mainspring housing is 45, magwell 50, rounding a bit…
1215
For the barrel, bushing, guide rod, and labor. Technically the safety, front sight, and beavertail are in there too. Also these prices are public, not dealer or ffl. (Not that the breakdown seems to matter, since it’s sold as a package.)
Same thing, I think, would apply to this as to the Staccato… namely… what about this makes it 1784 dollars better than the stock Prodigy? Is it twice as accurate? Cycles 2x as fast? Is half as likely to malfunction?
What am I missing here?
(For the record, I just bought a Prodigy after considering a bunch of other stuff, most of which I dismissed for the same reason: I’m going to go try my first match here soon, and I couldn’t for the life of me see how style/design, fitment, perfect smoothness and finish, etc were going to impact performance. )
-
1 hour ago, RJH said:
Dude, see if it works first. Mine has worked fine for damn near 3,000 rounds and I had a trigger job done on the factory components. People try to overthink this stuff. If it needs components replace place all that s***, it doesn't work let Springfield fix it. Then decide if it needs components
Yeah, that’s what I was saying in the first line… only things I’m doing any time soon are an extended mag release (cause I’m just barely short of being able to drop mag without adjusting grip), and a magwell (because I can). And those won’t be until after I get a couple hundred rounds through it. If there’s a problem it’ll go back to factory… but it appears to be the revised slide version, so I’m expecting it’ll be fine.Eventually it will likely see a bunch of changes, but that’s more to do with my inability to leave well enough alone than anything else.
1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said:Here's an excellent example of a "tuned" fire control group that includes PREMIUM parts and the excellent Red Dirt trigger specifically designed for the Prodigy stock grip:
https://deeprivercustoms.com/product/trigger-kit/
https://reddirt-usa.com/st-trigger/prodigy-grip/
It's very important, IMO, to have an aftermarket trigger that offers a trigger bow that's not too long; and simplified adjustments that definitely benefit the beginner or less experienced shooter!
If your using the Prodigy for competition, most 2011 type guns will use the 17# mainspring; especially with updated ignition parts!
And YES, it's safe to assume that all individual 1911/2011 parts will need fitting and/or adjusting to produce a SAFE and trouble free pistol!
HTHs
Alright, nice, I was looking at those a couple of days (weeks?) ago. Looks good except the trigger shoe and hammer color (easy enough to address I think). Will keep them/the set in mind for later on. -
44 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:
If you purchase a shielded ambi to use with your existing parts, the safety will have to be fit to your existing sear/hammer configuration. Then if you later purchase an upgraded ignition system (highly recommended), you'll have to spend additional money on another safety or at least have yours welded and refit to the new components
Oh wow. Okay, was not aware of that. Wasn’t planning to do safety/ignition stuff just yet — haven’t even had a chance to take my Prodigy to the range — but that’s good to know, and I haven’t it seen mentioned elsewhere. (Been doing a lot of reading, and aware that many/most parts require some degree of fitting, though.)Any other parts with similar gotchas? I’ve seen that the trigger bow is a bit different from others, so some won’t work with the stock grip (and vice-versa with other grips?), don’t know about the sear/hammer/disco, but usually see those come in sets…
Oh, and iirc, something about the mainspring, mentioned in another thread that I’m blanking on…
-
6 hours ago, dtuns said:
What grip is on your prodigy and did you have to do any fitting?
Not the owner, but having spent the last couple of weeks staring at 2011s… should be an MPA ds9 grip. From what I’ve seen elsewhere, minor fitting/blending may be required… also, iirc, another thread mentions that stock prodigy trigger bow is a bit different from “standard” 2011, so probably needs a different trigger to make everything work correctly. -
5 hours ago, waktasz said:
The most important thing is that it's reliable. I'm in a FB group for Prodigy owners and those things seem to be hit or miss. Good luck
(Apologies in advance, didn’t mean to write this much.)
I think I’ve read nearly every forum thread, reddit post, blog article, magazine article, etc I could find… It’s clear to me that there were some initial teething issues, particularly with the 5 inch, that had to do with factory springs and maybe some issues with the mags. Also the 5 was reported to feel a bit sluggish compared to the 4.25.
At some point in the last year they made some changes. Iirc, spring changes on both (slightly heavier), new mags have smoothed/polished feed lips, material removed from rear of 5 inch slide (presumably for cycle speed), and some possible geometry adjustments to front of slide on 5 inch.Consensus seemed to be that people with later models weren’t having issues.
Being the internet and all, it’s a bit difficult to sort out:
- early vs late production models
- equipment vs operator errors
- direct experience vs indirect vs hallucinations- how many have been sold, real vs perceived defect rate
The big thing, for me anyway, is that (most) people who had issues with theirs sent it in to SA for service, got it back in a timely fashion, and reported no further issues beyond that. People that didn’t send it in either sold it (weird), had it worked on by a smith, or fixed it themselves; the latter two similarly reporting no further issues.
Personal experience with other SA stuff owned by myself or my dad - an xd, two xdms, a hellcat, and a saint edge - has been consistently positive (well, the hellcat kind of sucks, but I feel like all tiny guns do).
I handled the prodigies in a shop in both sizes, along with some other stuff; some kind of 9k Atlas (not convinced it feels 6k nicer than a czechmate or 8.5k ish nicer than a prodigy), czechmate, TSO, unknown Tanfo open gun, nighthawk, shadow 2, PDP, echelon, canik(s).
Discarded Platypus (limited parts compatibility, weird looking grip angle), Staccato (ugly slides, stupid star on grip, annoying fans on reddit), Atlas (this is not my primary hobby), CZ (want 2011 trigger), as well as PDP, Echelon, Canik (all three feel great, reported reliable, etc… but really want SAO, hammer fired kind of thing).
Also considered going to Hayes Cobra , MPA hybrid or LO, DWX (not optics ready), and probably some I’m forgetting… but the diminishing returns thing is in play; the Prodigy will likely feel better than anything I’ve owned or shot pistol-wise.
Assuming it’s reliable (out of box or after svc), I’m not clear on what I would gain by going to something higher end. (Possible I’ve missed some considerations, though)
Anyway. I just looked at how much I’ve written and realized I should stop now. Sorry.
Summary version: probably Prodigy 5 inch, aware of reported issues, assume it will be reliable either out of box or after warranty work, unsure if it would be worth it to spend more, unsure of cost for the next major step in performance, reliability, usability, and accuracy. (Basically, how much does it cost to get a 2011 good enough that spending beyond that no longer improves function or performance in any meaningful way.)
What is the best ultrasonic solution to clean the comp?
in Open Pistols
Posted
Don’t know about best, but just a reminder; black nitrided parts (possibly other coatings too) and acidic ultrasonic solutions (like the ones for cleaning brass) do not mix.
I learned this the hard way by ruining an AR bolt carrier and a bolt or two one day.
No idea if it’s relevant for your particular case, but I don’t often see it mentioned…