arcsign
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Posts posted by arcsign
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A little late on this, but you can also use Strelok or similar to get a figure for “maximum point-blank range”.
Basically put in the rifle info, define the maximum diameter you need all of the shots within… and it’ll give you a zero distance so that all rounds will be above or below point of aim by 1/2 diameter supplied, as well as a distance within which that remains true. Usually used for hunting, I think, but could be useful for your application as well.
There are some limits on how small the target circle can be, iirc one is related to height over bore…
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Somehow missed the MEAN arms upper in the last year or so. Great write up, I’ll have to check these out!
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Not currently. Have a smoke composites stock/tube and carbon endplate, so I don’t think staking that is an option. However. The lower is San tan tactical, where the takedown pin retaining pin/spring inserts from the bottom; it’s got a set screw and is covered by the pistol grip… and the SC buffer tube has a lip on it with a slot for the buffer retainer that prevents it from rotating more than a couple of mm either direction (if loose)… between the loctite, buffer retainer slot, relocated takedown pin retainer, and usage as a range/competition (maybe, eventually) toy, I figure it’s probably fine.
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I’ve been using this: https://patriotvalleyarms.com/ultralight-jet-blast-muzzle-brake/
Aluminum, which is weird, but weight is 1.37oz, which is ridiculous. Feels slightly less effective than the VG6 Lambda PRS (4.8oz ish), but not by much, and part of that may just be the weight difference. Showing little/no wear after ~2-300 rounds of 6.5 Grendel, and comes recommended by some people on the Hide forums (who, I don’t recall off the top of my head, but pretty sure that’s where I found it to start with). Also nice that it’s jam-nut style, so install/swap is easy.
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Running a vg6 precision lambda PRS on 6.5cm (22 inch barrel, basically no felt recoil), .308 (16 inch, not quite as light recoil as the cm, but still light), and sometimes 6.5 Grendel (still deciding if like that or the PVA jetblast ultralite on that rifle), and seems to work quite well...
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4 hours ago, Bakerjd said:
I still dont get why the need for the TS2. The TSO is/was a very nice pistol. I've often had to tell myself no when I've seen one at the LGS. And I still might pick one up.
Having the same issue here. There’s one in particular I keep stopping to visit when I’m at the range, but can’t quite bring myself to do it. -
Gah. It’s pretty, but I wish they had left the dustcover profile alone. The continuous curve of the TSO is, IMO, a rather more interesting aesthetic... handled one in LGS the other day; trigger felt pretty similar to a TSO I’d handled elsewhere, but grip shape and feel were a bit different.
Was hoping they’d have the TSO replacement level model out soon too, mostly so I could get a TSO somewhat cheaper...
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So... Disclaimer, I’m not a pcc guy (yet), just been spending a lot of time thinking about buffers and stuff on my Grendel AR.
There are (at least) two ways to get a double feed (that are bolt/buffer related):
- the bolt is too slow and doesn’t manage to extract the first round before closing
- the bolt is too fast and ends up catching the case again on the way forward.
My reasoning goes like this:
- you started with a dirty extractor, and went to a higher charge to compensate, so the bolt got faster
- cleaned the extractor, making the bolt too fast to clear... maybe bouncing off the back of the tube/buffer if the action/recoil/buffer spring was worn out
- replaced the spring, which maybe prevented it from actually hitting the end of the tube, but new springs have more oomph going forward, and not much difference resisting the initial impulse... so no change really there
- lightened the weight of buffer, which made the carrier even faster in both directions
So... maybe you need to slow it down again, but probably need it slower than you had it originally due to springier spring. (Maybe, my knowledge of springy thingies is less than extensive.)
I’d say go up a step past the original buffer configuration in weight, and that might slow it down enough to not catch the spent case on the return stroke.(Alternatively, if your double feeds leave the spent case in the chamber in front of new round, instead of between the bolt face and the new round, the same change should prevent the extractor from moving as fast during initial impulse and yanking the extractor off the rim of the case... I’m not sure that is as common on a blowback pcc, though, since that can sometimes involves a timing issue where the case is still being held in the chamber by expansion when the bolt starts to move back...)
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A little late to the party here, but for future reference... rather than pick a zero out of a hat, so to speak, you can use JBM or Strelok Pro to calculate your Max Point Blank Zero and Max Point Blank Range.
Basic idea is you put in your load data and the maximum acceptable radius (or diameter, I don’t remember for JBM) for your application. Like, if you’re shooting steel plates that are 8x8, Max radius is that of the inscribed circle... so 4 inches, maybe 3.5 to be safe, and the calculator will give you both the maximum range that you can get away without holding over/under shooting center of target, and the zero to set to get that range.
Example in the image.
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Hello! I recently returned to Florida after spending a couple of years in the northeast... visited my parents and went shooting outdoors for the first time.
(Prior to moving up north I went to the indoor range every couple of weeks; I bought an XD 40 just before I moved, but left it here because I was moving relatively frequently and didn’t want to deal with the variations in laws across four or five states.)
The outdoor range just kind of clicked for me, especially the steel targets, and I figured I’d get a rifle, pistol, shotgun, and get into 3 gun (once the plague settles down)... long story short, my plan to get a reasonably priced rifle, inexpensive shotgun, and unreasonably priced pistol faltered, and I ended up building an exceptionally nice rifle and nothing else, yet.
That’s fine, though. One of the things I’d been doing up north to amuse myself was a bit of backyard marksmanship learning with a CZ air rifle, chrono, notebooks, calculator, dozen types of pellets, and a lot of reading. Got the hang of it after a while, but now it’s been a few years and I’ve forgotten most of it; currently enjoying the process of getting back into it.
I’ve been using the Enos forums and SH as references while building and tuning my rifle over the last couple of months... so... you know... first time poster longtime lurker. Hoping in the near future to get a pistol and, eventually, to get out to some USPSA or similar events.
Other than that... I do software stuff for a living, and, under more normal conditions, I’d likely be planning for ski race season rather than trying to decide how far I want to go on 3gun or maybe precision rifle or USPSA or...
Anyhoo, nice to meet you all, hopefully I’ll have useful things to contribute at some point!
For $4000 is there anything better than the MPA DS9 LOC for Limited Optics?
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
Funny enough, this is pretty much the reason I’m looking at 2011s and their kin for LO, rather than being more reasonable and starting with CO instead. (Starting with a Prodigy, though, so still kinda reasonable.)
I’m not as comfortable with a pistol as with a rifle, so I figure getting something that feels good, fits well, and looks cool will provide some initial encouragement (also guilt). By the time the shine wears off, I should already have spent enough time with it (dry-fire and range) to get comfortable.