Nick_shoots_fast
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Posts posted by Nick_shoots_fast
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I was putting a lower build together tonight and I got the JP yellow spring kit for a Mil-Spec trigger. I wasn’t expecting timney quality but something similar to my rock river Mil-Spec trigger. All I have to say is EW, no. Maybe I’m missing something but the trigger is marginally better than Mil-Spec and the hammer is so light falling forward that I’m worried about light strikes. I’ll be taking this back. Kinda disappointed and I’m hoping I missed something.
anyone have any ideas?
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On 12/4/2019 at 3:33 PM, adamge said:
I guess I am confused, how can you thermofit a barrel to a upper, in the scenario where the barrel fits into the upper fairly easily with both objects at room temperature? Wouldn't thermofit only apply if they didn't fit together at room temperature?
I’ve never heard of “thermofit”. What does that mean and what are the benefits?
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This seems like a great little press to set in the back for odd ball stuff. I have a Dillon swaging tool and would love to set this little guy up to swage. Think this can be connected to the Dillon ?case feeder
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6 hours ago, Yondering said:
Stove piping is probably your ejector, or maybe the extractor. Pull the bolt and push the ejector in and out with a punch to make sure it moves freely and has plenty of spring pressure. Check for burrs and anything sticky or hanging up.
If that checks out, check the extractor too. If it seems ok, verify the extractor spring is adequate, and you may need the little O-ring around the spring to increase extractor tension if you don't already have one.
The third possibility is that the gun may be severely overgassed. That can cause weird extraction & ejection problems that can look like undergassed symptoms. If your extracted cases have torn rims (or even partially torn) from the extractor, that may be an issue. A rough chamber can cause that too though and will be evident as small rings in the body of fired brass.
i didn’t know that about over gassing but I will check the bolt issues out when I get home.
thank you so much for your advice!
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I got a cheapo pistol upper for Black Friday at a local shop and threw it on one of my pistol builds to function check.
The gun keeps stove piping every 10-15 rounds and I can’t figure out why. I had a couple boxes of factory rounds that I used instead of hand loads just to see if it worked so the ammo isn’t the issue. These rounds also work in other pistol builds. I ripped everything apart when I got home today again to see if the gas tube along with gas block was properly aligned and that wasn’t the issue. I double checked to see if there was anything obstructing the gas hole in barrel and that was ok. Everything was oiled properly. Mag is brand new so it’s not the spring. Buffer system I believe is ok cause it works on other pistol builds.
I can’t figure out what’s going on. This is the second trip to the range with this issue. The first time I thought the issue was the gas block cause it was a slightly out of alignment but it wasn’t. I can’t figure this out and was hoping someone can give me some guidance.
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I was listening to an Anderson podcast and he mentioned steel loads. He said to take the same powder charge and use the lightest bullet you can get your hands on.
I haven’t tried it yet, but the physics makes sense to me.
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7 hours ago, orangeman711 said:
Try 24.5grns of Ramshot Tac with a 69grn SMK JHP. Most accurate load I've found for my rifle. Good luck.
ironically I have some of that! My dad just gave 1/2 pound of ramshot over thanksgiving! That’s almost scary that you just said that! Lol -
1 hour ago, MJinPA said:
25.3 of varget is my go to with a 69gr smk. It’s consistently 1/2 moa for me. Did you go up that far in your ladder test?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI started with 23.4 with .3 increments and got up to 25.3. The spread was tighter than 55g ball but wasn’t as impressive as the 24g group. I want to go back and revisit 23.9-24.2. My concern is I’m never going to drop 24 grains consistently so I want to see what I’m in for if it’s a little high or low.
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Thanks for the help guys!
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41 minutes ago, MJinPA said:
The smaller group is a 52 gr smk with 25.5 of h335. The other is a 69 gr smk with 23.5 of Varget.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThat’s a pretty sweet app also. You just load the pic on and it does it’s magic? I’m assuming you have to check what caliber it is also.
was that free?
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33 minutes ago, MJinPA said:
I do it regularly with all good hand loads I’ve put through a 20” white oak barrel. But, I also did not put the upper together. Bought a complete 20” white oak varmint upper with matching bolt. I know the barrel plays a big part. Not sure how much assembly and matching bolt contributes. Also using a geissele national match trigger and Sig 6-24 scope.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkRhats really impressive! What’s your load work up for that?
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2 hours ago, nso123 said:
A true, 5-shot 1/2 MOA gas gun is not a simple build. Be happy with consistent sub-MOA with the occasional smaller group. At your price point, Ballistic Advantage has some nice barrels that shoot well.
Just did it yesterday.. 24gr pushing a 69gr match king. Also my buddies 20” WOA barrel shooting 75gr Hornady will do it all day also.
thanks for the heads up! I’ll check out ballistic advantage!
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I’m just not seeing what others are seeing. There’s nothing proprietary about these glasses. Anyone can make these. I talked to a buddy and he got some but the prescription ones. I guess I can see why they are so much for the prescription lenses. I just see the $350 dollar + price tag and not understanding what I get for this. I have tried them on multiple times to see if I’m just an idiot, but still not understanding. They are bright I get it, but so are other glasses with yellow tint.
I guess if I won them but I’m not picking them up off the prize table unless I know I can sell them.
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I’m building a “dmr” style rifle and everything is accounted for besides the barrel. Looking for a fluted barrel that will put match bullets well inside 1/2 MOA. If the bolt comes with it, that’s awesome but I feel like I’m asking a lot for this price point.
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Primary arms has a sweet Black Friday deal going on that’s extended to Monday. I just bought a ton of Lower receiver parts. Also optics planet has ar triggers on sale. Picked up a rise trigger for cheap.
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2 hours ago, DesertTortoise said:
That's a pretty light loading. If the gun runs on factory ammo, The handloaded ammo is a likely suspect.
so after I read your post it got me thinking. I’m very cautious when loading for any caliber, so the information didn’t make any sense. I went back to look in my load book to see what I was doing wrong when I saw the problem. At the time of that particular load development, I was loading 62 fmj and not 55s like I just bought. So yes, my 25.5 is well below pressure and needs to get bumped up which leads me to another question.
26 grains for a starting load seems incredibly high. What are you guys using for your 55g plinking loads? Cfe is a cheaper option compared to what else is out there but 26 grains is pretty high I feel like. If I can save a few grains that would be great.
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1 hour ago, Dirtchevy841 said:
I had 2 650s one was great one was a problem child. Now I have a1050 problem solved. Wish I would’ve went from my sdb to 1050 long time ago. 1050 is awesome.
I would love a 1050 but I don’t see the point in a 1050 if I don’t have an auto bot. Now I’m into the press $3 grand +
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So I think I narrowed down the issue. I was out shooting a couple ARs today and the one I build is having cycling issues again. The first time the gas block hole wasn’t lining up with the hold in the barrel so I took it to a gun smith to put the barrel on a lathe. He shaved off material on the groove on the barrel where the gas block stops to prevent it from sliding all the way down the barrel. This made the gun run a little more reliably I thought.
this summer I loaded 25.2 grains of cfe 223 for plinking with 55g and 1 out of 30 wouldn’t either lock the bolt back on empty or pick up the next round. So I loaded up 25.5 grains and took it to the range today. Same problem exact problem. So I’m assuming is a gas issue. It’s a 16” carbine barrel with carbine buffer system. Nothing special.
25.5 grains of CFE223 should be plenty of powder to make the rifle cycle right? That’s well within the limit given by Hodgden.
I’m assuming it’s a gas issue so I’m looking at buying a cheapo barrel and throwing that on there. Do you guys agree or am I missing something? Black Friday deals will be going on for another day or so, so a $50 dollar barrel sounds good to me. 1 1/2 moa at 100 sounds good to me because this isn’t a gun designed for tack driving.
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On 11/27/2019 at 4:12 PM, Atlasguy321 said:
Thanks for the info and the serria page! My Lyman book is incredibly reserve and I don’t have a good chrono to measure rifles. I don’t want to get round really accurate but super slow.
I just did a ladder test earlier today and 24 grains is shooting about 1/2 moa and very impressive. Do you think the velocity is to low to get the most out what the bullet is capable of at longer ranges? -
4 hours ago, Dirtchevy841 said:
Another thing to check other than the credit card width is making sure your not running brass with crimped primer pockets. I had a bad batch of brass with it and caused these problems.
I had a bad batch also but all these cases have been previously fired and the pockets should be blown out by now. Pretty sure this is the press. It’s very frustrating not being able to pin the issue down. -
Hey guys I have a steel framed 2011 limited gun and I just bought a SS akai mag well. Their Black Friday deal was pretty sweet so I thought if I didn’t like it, I could actually make money on reselling it.
I bought it with the thought it might reduce a little more recoil due to the weight. I’m going from a Dawson ice magwell to this in hopes the added weight will help. When I switched from a plastic grip 2011 to a steel framed 2011, the recoil was drastically reduced. Can I expect this from this mag well?
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22 hours ago, Chills1994 said:
Me?
Personally?
Yeah I will sort out by headstamps for rifle brass.
I do NOT have any particular load for .223 and Varget.
I prefer H335 instead.
Is this something that you have tried out to see if there’s any accuracy issues? I just made test ammo and I didn’t even bother looking. Just grabbed a handful of random brass lol
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On 11/28/2019 at 8:30 AM, Furrly said:
The space between the gate and the brass should be the width of a credit card
So I’m pretty sure this is the culprit. I was loading yesterday every slowly to see what’s going on. When the primer would hang up as it’s supposed to be going into the case, I messed with that metal door. After messing with it, the primer was able to go in with no problem.
my question is how do I know when it’s out enough. Not sure what you mean by the width.
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Are you always matching head stamps on this brass?
JP ar15 spring kit. Seriously?
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I wasn’t trying to make it into a match trigger but I was hoping it would improve.
ill try to cut that part and polish also.