HSMITH
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Posts posted by HSMITH
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Either slide works fine if you understand the operation of the gun.
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Anyone know enough about wheels to help me out? The local bike shop guys think I am nuts when I ask them....
I beat the hell out of my bike and the wheels are showing it, truing once a week isn't going to fly. Bike is a FS, 5" on both ends, 26" wheels and V brakes. Hubs are XT and in great shape, so I would rather skip the disc brake conversion and keep the money. I don't think 29's will fit on either end at full travel so I think I need to stick with 26's. If I am at home or can take my bike with me I put 80-100 miles a week on it, 80% or more spinning most of the time but when I get a chance to bang around in the woods I go hard. I want to be able to drop 6 feet plus, smack curb sized rocks and roots, etc. I am down under 190 pounds now, with all this in mind is there a wheel that will do what I want? My gear is holding me back and that is something that always irritates me.
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Get the tub and the tube, a tube is just enough to get you hooked if that is all you buy but they are really nice to have in your range bag. Buy Lite and medium grade to get started. The Lite is needed on a VERY tight gun or in cold weather, otherwise the medium seems to work on just about everything.
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Delta
in What I Hate
I'll ride a bike before I fly Delta again. They screwed me for the last time a couple years ago.
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XM has topped the list of worst companies to deal with EVER for me. The agents barely speak english, the supervisor wasn't any better and HUNG UP ON ME!!!! Total asshats, worst customer service I have ever seen anywhere.
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Flex and Jim are right.
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If you apply enough slide glide, as in paint every surface inside the gun with enough SG to see a bit of color, then you will not need to clean at all. You can just wipe it out and reapply.
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I want one .100" taller in the blade only, then I can use a .280" tall front and with the notch cut to the bottom on the blade, I will be able so see everything around the front sight!! It is on my project list to make them, but years would be a reasonable estimate for completion......
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There should be a very simple law, you are allowed 1 minute in the left lane and anything over that makes you fair game for ramming off the road.
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Paper towels or rags, it is all you need to wipe the slide glide out and prepare for another application. If I am feeling lazy I will hose the Slide Glide out with brake cleaner, quick scrub with an old toothbrush, hose it out again and paint it full of Slide Glide. I don't clean barrels on handguns unless they are leaded up. Between my Open and Limited guns combined I have over 100K rounds without the bore ever seeing anything but bullets or perhaps an oiled patch if I was shooting in the rain and remember to do it. I will twist a brush in the chamber every couple cleanings, makes me feel better.
With Slide Glide applied correctly you will never have to work to get your gun clean again, all the nasties stay soft and wipe right out with a paper towel.
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LOL, Happy B-Day Kyle!!
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Great to hear David, please give my best wishes to the new mother as well.
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I load it all, no matter what. When I load it into the boxes I put FC into the junk pile, S&B and AMERC in the practice bin (like I will ever practice LOL) and shoot the rest in matches. I try to limit my match ammo to 9 headstamps or less per match mag load of ammo.....
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From the looks of the pictures I'd send the barrel and slide to SV and have them look at it, looks like the rib has been hitting the slide pretty hard.
EDIT: Stay with this issue and try to communicate the best you can with SV: be patient, they are a good group of people and have taken care of every problem I have ever seen that has been related to workmanship or material in regard to their products. It could be a translational error or a context issue at this point, I would be surprised to see them deny warranty without seeing the actual parts in question. SV has treated me extremely well and I would expect that they do the same for you when all is said and done.
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I have a brand new 550B and a slew of goodies to go with it sitting at home as of day before yesterday. I got all of the goodies short of a case feeder to go with it. Still boggles my mind, thank you ALL and Brian in particular!!
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Silhouette or VV 3n-37 have been the best for me, and I have tried EVERYTHING it seems like. All I care about is consistent dot track and no worries about atmospherics at chrono time with good accuracy. 3n-37 is a bit better than Silhouette but at twice the price it should be.
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The link has to be fitted to the barrel, after the lower lugs were cut to the proper geometry. Changing links to fix a feeding problem isn't something I would advise, in fact I would advise you to leave the link alone unless you know you have the wrong one. At that point you would be able to diagnose the system based on your knowledge of the system as a whole and each component of the system.
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Manny is AWESOME!!
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I have been lucky (unlucky) enough to do it twice. Once at 18 yards in a 3D tournament and once at 27 yards in practice.
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This is precisely why I stopped using TiteGroup, that and it recoils a lot harder than other powders that are more consistent.
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I lived in Gilbert and worked out of Tempe in 97 and 98. I LOVED the heat, drink enough water and keep some air moving and it is all good. A world better than 90 here, with 90% humidity there is nothing you can do to cool down other than get out of the temps. When I find a job I'll be back down.
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Excellent. I was hoping there was a carrot for those of us with an account too. I will be accessing my Brownells account through the link from here on out.
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Nah, Micah and Chuck are both great guys. They might bust your bag for eternity given the opportunity but both will stand up for you just as quick. They are OUR kind of people. The only thing is I can't wait to ask them about this dream conversation so I too can put the boot to your bag Chris
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Anytime Jack.
Mountain bike wheels
in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum
Posted
Thanks for the help and the links guys, I appreciate it.
I am resisting discs because (dry) my rim brakes will overcome the traction of both tires easily on any surface or flip the bike, if I can lock either wheel or flip the bike at will I don't see the need to spend the money. Wet conditions slow me down, period. After having a hole in my skull you could drop a silver dollar through due to failed bicycle brakes I take bicycle brakes quite seriously. Being told I was going to die wasn't fun. That said, I still ride like an idiot, if I live through it that was a good ride. This is my first full suspension bike, and it is amazing. You can pound this bike like nothing I have ever ridden before. And I can sit flat on my butt and mash over just about anything if I get lazy. As far as comfort and and performance go I don't think I'll ride a hardtail bike again, I'll pay the efficiency penalty (very small in my case) for the comfort and ease of a full suspension.
I guess I need to beat on a disc brake bike a little and see what the difference is. If it is noticeable I'd pay the cost of admission. I do not like gear that holds me back. 29's are interesting to me though too. Discs and 29's have me looking at a new bike and I'd rather not. I am not home enough or making enough money right now to do that project right comfortably. I'd easily sink the retail cost of a new Open gun and mags plus some into a 29'er. I need a road bike first. If you run across a nice road bike, 54-56 and mostly complete let me know. I am looking for a midrange to high end road bike that I can put some real miles on. I have a lot more opportunity to ride a road bike here than I do a mountain bike.
Thanks again, Howard.