[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

I've been reading in the Lyman manual.  It says to sort my brass by lot number.  My current goal is to simply create  some decent range ammo.  I have a lot of my own once fired brass, but it is a mixture of many different brands.  I don't have the boxes and no lot numbers.  Should I try to sort the brass by headstamps?  Or can I just label cartridges going forward so I'll know how many times I've reloaded that case, trimmed it, etc?

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

As I stated initially, I'm going to learn on 9mm.  I've gradually been buying the essential tools.  There are a few items I haven't purchased however.  Is it common to have to trim 9mm cases?  Should I get a case trimmer and deburring tool before I start?  If yes, any recommendations on which ones?  Also, should I buy any 9mm gauges?  I already have a quality micrometer.

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

Ah, decisions, decisions!

 

What have I got myself into?  

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

54 minutes ago, superdude said:

 

A chronograph is only necessary if you want to know velocity. That information is useful to competitors for calculating power factor. It won't tell you anything about accuracy. The target does that. 

 

It's hard to define optical velocity, because we have to ask; optimal for what? Power factor? Yes, there is a velocity range we shoot for.  Accuracy? No. That said, some bullets, like wadcutter bullets are supposed to work best within a certain velocity range, or at least the folks at the Bullseye website make this claim (though there are other factors like barrel twist rate). The velocity is what your gun happens to produce with a particular bullet to make the smallest groups, and in reality, the velocity doesn't matter because the only data you need to make small groups is the details of the bullet, powder and charge weight, overall length, brass, primer - the mechanical stuff. The velocity is a byproduct, that it, it doesn't go into the formula for accuracy. Velocity just happens to be the byproduct of all the other details. It doesn't predict accuracy like the other components do - at least not for general handgun use.  

 

Some people have claimed that smaller standard deviations in velocity produce smaller groups. But that doesn't appear to be the case for the typical handgun at typical handgun velocities.    https://americanhandgunner.com/handguns/exclusive-consistent-velocity-accuracy/ 

 

A chronograph is marginally useful for assessing pressure, and probably only useful if the speeds are excessively high to give you a warning that something is amiss. But your best measure of pressure is following the data in a load manual and working your way up to the desired level of performance you want without exceeding published data. The published data is almost always based on actual lab tested pressure under controlled conditions. 

 

Of course, the exception at this forum is 9 Major. We often push charge weights way above published maximums and into the unknown, but that's a different issue.

 

I have no experience with the Labradar, but I have chronographed about 25,000+ rounds with plain old Shooting Chrony chronographs, which run around $100. I have no major complaints. They can be fussy sometimes, but all chronographs can be that way. 

 

 

 

OK, that makes sense.  I guess if you're not trying to reach a certain power factor for competition, then any pistol velocity goal is somewhat arbitrary.  Perhaps having a rifle velocity goal  would make a little more sense if you  wanted to be certain of terminal ballistics for hunting.

 

Since I've never "worked up a load" (except in the bathroom ), how does it usually go without a chronograph?  I know you start at the low end of charge.  Assuming you're a good shooter, does the accuracy tend to gradually improve with extra powder grains and then get worse at some point?  Or if you have great accuracy at the lowest powder charge, do you just stop?  Exactly how do you typically determine that your load data is where you want to stop?

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

4 hours ago, BJB said:

 

I have 9mm carbide dies and didn't use case lube for a long time.  It's not required.  I finally tried some Hornady One-Shot and now the resizing is like butter.  It is really very, very effortless.  And, unlike a lot of other case lubes, the One-Shot doesn't leave a residue you have to remove if you apply it like this...... 

Spray some of it in a 1-gallon freezer bag and allow it to dry, just takes a couple minutes.  Then add your brass, seal the bag, shake & work the brass around in the bag.  Now reload. 

Thanks for the tip!  Do others prefer using One-Shot over other brands of case lube?

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

Am I correct in assuming that talented reloaders NEED a chronograph to help optimize loads?  I believe that you can determine accuracy results and avoid excessive pressure loads simply by visual observation.  But without a chronograph, there's no way to know if you've reached an optimal velocity?

 

I know they're expensive, but does anyone have or recommend the Labradar?  I saw that they were on a modest sale currently.  If not worth the money, what would you recommend?

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

I purchased carbide dies for my 9mm reloading.  I understand that I don't need to use case lube.  But would those with experience using carbide dies still recommend using case lube?

 

Also, when reloading in general, do you just use case lube for the resizing step, not expanding, not bullet seating nor bullet crimping?

 

P.S.  I just started reading the Lyman 50th edition reloading handbook.  It's getting me excited!

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

superdude, do you also like the RMR JHP or just the truncated cone bullets?

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

Again, thank you.  That's very helpful.  And RMR looks pretty good!  I had not heard of them before.  I was considering 124 gr HAP, but they're a lot more money!

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

Thanks so much for everyone's input.  I already have learned a lot and feel more capable of making my first powder and bullet purchases without screwing up.  superdude, I wil check all of your links.  I love that kind of detail.  We actually belong to two different ranges, one indoor and one outdoor.  We shoot a lot.  I'm certain I'll upgrade to a progressive once I fully understand what I'm doing.

 

This may be an advanced question or silly concern.  I've read that the most accurate reloads tend to occur when the powder level reaches the bullet base or is even slightly compressed by the bullet.  Is this something that people even think about when reloading?  Is that why the published COL will not be the same for all bullets?  The charts seem to always list the same COL for the same bullet, even though the powders are all different.  I would think that the powder volumes would vary greatly because of different compositions and different grain weights.  Does anyone care if their case is "topped off" with powder or do you just pay attention to your actual shooting results?

[Brand New From Parker, Colorado.]

You're probably correct.  But I can think up some really bizarre ones!  

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

12 minutes ago, zzt said:

 

For 9mm, your single stage press will have you giving up in frustration in no time.  Since you want to develop skills and start a new hobby, make life easy on yourself.  Buy a Dillon SDB or a 550 with dies, a powder scale, primer flipper, vibratory cleaner and a media separator.  I started with a SDB in 45, because I was not loading large quantities.  4000 a year was tops.  The SDB comes already set up for the caliber you ordered.  All you have to do is readjust the expander setting and the powder drop.  It is a simple to use, easy to understand, progressive machine that will let you crank out 400 rounds and hour.  You can sell the 9mm dies you bought, because the SDB uses special dies.  Or buy a 550 and use the dies you already bought.

 

I"m sure you're correct about the frustration (slowness) of 9mm and a single stage press.  When I first started lurking on some reloading forums, the majority highly recommended learning on a single stage press.  So, after much personal torment, I followed their advice and gave up my plans of buying a Dillon 650XL.  I think I'll probably buy a progressive press in the future however.

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

Great explanation.  Thanks.  So ideally should a powder be chosen to match barrel length?  Is there any way to actually do this?  My main concealed pocket carry gun has a 3.1" barrel.  Do I need a faster burning powder so that unburnt powder doesn't exit the muzzle?  Or will the slowest burning powder still be consumed before exiting a short barrel?

 

I found this relative burn rate chart in a Hodgdon manual.  It actually lists CFE Pistol as burning slower than WSR.  

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

47 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

We can do this SO MUCH cheaper. With readily available components.

 

I’ve already done this exact same trial and error process. 147 HST is my carry load as well. Wanted to shoot ammo that recoiled just like it in a defensive training class..

 

 

Buy any 115 jacketed bullet and follow the recipe in the first line. Stagger load a mag with this ammo and 147 HST and you won’t be able to tell which round is which. 

WSF and 115gr bullets can both be found at your local shops pretty easily, too.

(CFE is much faster in burn rate than the powder you’ll find backing defensive JHPs, and would have produced noticeably softer recoil under a 147.)

 

 

MemphisMechanic, oh my gosh!  Is that your personal research above for that many different bullets in 9mm?  Your suggestion is very interesting.  I never considered trying to match "feel" with completely different bullet weights and velocities.  I have no idea what kind of powder is in an HST round, so maybe my approach was silly.  Same bullet weight and type, with different powder must recoil differently anyway.  I'm not certain if the top line would definitely be cheaper however.  I haven't bought any bullets or powder yet.

 

My plan to purchase CFE Pistol powder was simply based on browsing reloading forums and seeing many reloaders who really liked using that powder.  I settled on Zero bullets because of the similar construction and weight and their lower price to Hornady XTP bullets.  (I don't think you can buy Federal HST bullets.)

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

No, I've never reloaded any pistol or rifle ammo ever.  I reloaded some shotgun shells with my grandpa as a kid, but I'm old now.

 

Let me clarify my wish to start reloading.  I did think a lot about the financial sense or lack of sense for reloading 9mm.  I buy 1000 rounds at a time and I really don't expect to save much money.  It's also not critical that my reloaded ammo "feels" exactly like my carry ammo.  I just thought it was a nice goal.  I assumed that using similar weight and similar construction bullets would help.  Plus, when the zombie apocalypse begins, I'd rather have lots of 147gr ammo available, reloaded or store bought.

 

My main reasons for starting to reload are: to develop a potentially valuable skill when the country collapses under liberal rule; to start a new hobby as I approach retirement; to reuse brass (I hate just throwing it away); and possibly to even learn how to develop higher accuracy rifle loads for long range shooting.

 

I've already purchased a single stage press and some 9mm dies, so I'm committed to at least start learning with 9mm reloads.

[Never Reloaded. Have Some Questions.]

I'll start with one question, see how it goes, and then work up! 

 

My wife and I carry Federal 9mm 147gr HST for self defense.  We shoot a lot of 9mm and I want to start reloading target rounds that will feel similar to our chosen carry ammo.  My current plan is to use range brass, Hodgdon CFE Pistol powder, CCI 500 primers and Zero 147gr JHP bullets.  I've been unable to find a load data chart that specifies the Zero 147gr JHP bullet however.  Is it OK to use the attached data from Hodgdon that describes another 147gr JHP bullet instead?  I would assume that the two bullets will not have the exact same length and this might affect pressures, but I don't know how else to proceed.

[Brand New From Parker, Colorado.]

I've decided to start reloading, and I've got some questions.  I'm going to start with 9mm since that is the caliber that my wife and I shoot the most.  I'm hoping this forum has some real experts that can answer my technical concerns.  I'll post my questions in the 9mm reloading section.  See you there!