[Shadow 2 action rougher]

20 hours ago, MoRivera said:

Good to hear.  Did it cure the friction on the slide?

It did! Thank you!

[Shadow 2 action rougher]

I finally figured it out. 

 

The tab on the back side of the  safety lever was catching the edge of the depression which was preventing the lever to fully go in all the way. I did chip the paint off but no biggie. 

 

Thank you you to all who responded. Much appreciated!

[Shadow 2 action rougher]

52 minutes ago, GMP said:

Are you sure you didn't displace one of the small safety detent plungers that fit in the frame?  Easy to do and would cause all kinds of problems if floating around.

I hope not! I’m gonna have to check again. Thank you!

[Shadow 2 action rougher]

7 hours ago, Hansb57 said:

I swapped the safety (both sides)  out for a wide one and the forst 2 three times they were very tight.

I had to tap the left side in with a hammer (tap not smack)

 

Is the slide feels heavier is that because of mechanical drag or maybe now you grip the slide at the front instead of the rear??

Check if you bent any parts during the tapping.

Definitely not grip-related. I’m going to break it down again and check. 

 

Thank you for your time. 

[Shadow 2 action rougher]

3 hours ago, George16 said:

That’s definitely not normal. I didn’t have to use a rubber mallet to put everything back in when installing the wider safety. 
 

use the right side part that came paired with the extended safety lever. 

Thank you for your response! I will try that

[Shadow 2 action rougher]

Hello. I just switched out the safety lever on my shadow 2 and have noticed the slide to have more friction when moving it back and forth, by hand. 

 

So, here’s a little breakdown of what happened:

 

I watched several different videos on YouTube and followed exactly what I saw. However, with the final push in of the lever, where a tiny tab has to be pulled back towards the hammer, I had to use a rubber mallet to get the lever to go in the rest of the way. Even with an assistant who was pulling the tab back, I tried numerous times, by hand, but could not get the lever to slide in effortlessly like in the videos. I did move the spring contacting the lever out of the way, FYI. 

 

So, when I finally got the lever in all the way, the slide would not go all the way like something was blocking it. It looked like something in the sear cage assembly was not lined up properly. So, I pushed out the lever again and also removed the sear  cage. I reassembled it once more and I did have to use the mallet again for the final push but the lever did go in smoother this time around. 

 

Slide goes all the way in now. However, I noticed that there is more friction now that wasn’t there before. It doesn’t feel like anything “bad” is happening but definitely more rubbing something that wasn’t there before. 

 

Is this normal?

 

I kept the original lever on the right side and did not use the one that was paired with the extended safety lever. Not sure if this matters. 

 

Thank you very much!

[Too much pressure?]

Thank you! Please excuse the delay in responding. 

 

 

[Too much pressure?]

Thank you! I just ordered a chrono. Will try out my current load this weekend. 

[Too much pressure?]

Btw, other than a flattened primers and damaged casings, what are other over-pressure signs?

[Too much pressure?]

Thank you!

 

 

[Too much pressure?]

Thank you, all, for taking the time to respond. Will go lower on the charge and work back up, if needed. I’m just trying to stay above 130 PF. 

[Too much pressure?]

Hello, everyone! I was loading 124gr Berry’s plated RN over 4.0 TG to 1.150 for my Shadow 2 and it ran beautifully. I’ve run out and am now using RMR 124gr RN. The profile is a tiny bit different with the RMR and after doing a plunk test, I am having to load to 1.130. 

 

Should I necessarily lower my previous powder charge since my new OAL is shorter? Or, would 4.0 still be ok?  I did not get to compare the dimensions of the 2 bullet brands. 

 

Thank you!!!

[Which is most accurate?]

19 hours ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

 

If you're "recoil sensitive", then by all means stay with low powered loads for a while.  Not hard to get them

down to PF 110, and they feel very soft.

 

Also, don't shoot indoors - shoot only outdoors, if possible,  and double muff.

 

After a while, you will develop an immunity to the noise and you will be able to "fine tune other aspects of the game".     

Jack, thank you! And yes, thankfully, the range I go to is an outdoor one. Thanks for the advice!

[Which is most accurate?]

14 minutes ago, Yondering said:

 

In my experience practicing with a weaker load at least part of the time can be beneficial and not at all detrimental to competing at minor power factor later. Using a milder load IMO is sort of like a step closer to dry fire - it allows more focus on the details, and for me, I end up putting more rounds down range. I haven't found that to take away from my ability with hotter loads at all; it's been the opposite and made me better with the increased practice. 

This makes a lot of sense! I do find myself feeling overwhelmed at times having to focus on numerous things all at the same time and if I can, at least, convince the mind that there's not much recoil to prepare for then I can see how that would allow me to concentrate better in find-tuning other aspects of the game. Thanks!

[Which is most accurate?]

2 hours ago, Bulldog317 said:

Yes, sorry Typo.

Lol, I figured. I tried reloading to that COL last night but it looked funny. J/k.

[Which is most accurate?]

7 hours ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

 

If you're shooting indoors or you feel a little recoil shy, there's nothing wrong with shooting

PF 100 or so to get used to shooting.   BUT, your groups at 10 yards suggest you already

know how to shoot.

 

So, yes, I'd bump those up to PF 130 (you need a little cushion over PF 125) and start

shooting a minimum powered 9mm that you can use later for competition.

 

If you buy factory 9mm ammo, the PF is usually 125 - 150.   So, a PF 130 will feel about

normal - nothing to worry about.

 

I can't wait for you to post some 20 - 25 yard targets.   

 

Have fun with your new hobby - it's addictive.

Will do, sir! Thank you for your time.

[Which is most accurate?]

3 hours ago, Yondering said:

 

+1 to that stuff as well.

 

I'd do as suggested above and load 15-20 (minimum) of each of those loads and test them for accuracy. When you pick the most accurate, then do it again with changing seating depth, sticking with the same powder charge. You can continue on with tweaking each variable, but those two are a good start.

 

I try to find an accurate load that is most tolerant to changes, like using mixed brass or hot/cold temps, or normal fluctuations in thrown powder charge weights. Sometimes other loads will shoot the occasional smaller group, but the load I settle on is the most consistently accurate over a wide range of variables. 

Thank you. I will be keeping notes. 

[Which is most accurate?]

3 hours ago, 4n2t0 said:

Try to keep it simple since you're only plinking at the moment. Use whatever load functions properly and feels good. Your time is better spent shooting than trying to find insignificant accuracy gains from a few tenths of powder. You can always borrow a chrono later down the road if you want to develop a load specifically for "gaming".

Got it. At this point, would loading for lower recoil now work against me later on if I decide to compete and will have to meet a certain power factor, which I'm assuming will have more perceived recoil. In other words, would it be better to load for 125 pf now and get used to it? I've never used a chronograph so I don't exactly know what 125 pf feels like. Thanks!

[Which is most accurate?]

6 minutes ago, DeweyH said:

This is great advice.   To add to it,  for competition pick an acceptable power factor  and work up from there.  Don't let a higher power factor scare you from the most accurate load, especially in 9MM.  If you are not competing pick the one you enjoy shooting most.  The more I am around reloading the more I realize everything affects accuracy.  I have seen seen a different primer/charge weight/overall length all affect accuracy. 

Got it. I will keep this in mind if I decide to pursue competition after this Saturday's intro class. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

[Which is most accurate?]

1 hour ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

 

They are all very accurate, if that was at 15 - 25 yards.   Was it ?

 

You need a chrono to measure velocity - only need it if you're looking for a 

particular PF, for action competition.

 

As radny mentioned, five shots is not a great way to measure accuracy -

I like to set up target at 20 - 25 yards, and fire a 12 - 15 shot group.   I

discard the obvious flyers and take the center 8-12 shots, and measure

where they hit (should I adjust the sights), and how far apart they

measure (size of group).   Smallest group is the smallest group, and

The Most Accurate of the bunch.

Jack, thank you for breaking it down! I found your advice very informative.

 

I was at 10 yards only. I will try it again next time.

[Which is most accurate?]

5 minutes ago, Bulldog317 said:

Interesting.

I used Blue Bullet 147 Flat Point  at 1.35 OAL with no issue plunking in my SPO1 and with 3.3 Gr of tight group and would make 135-137 Power factor.

Do you mean 1.135 by any chance?

[Which is most accurate?]

2 minutes ago, radny97 said:

Five shots from each powder load usually won’t be enough to determine a statistically significant difference in accuracy. Moreover, pistols aren’t like rifles where the powder can strongly effect accuracy. Barrel harmonics is *mostly* not a thing in recoil operated handguns where the barrel is temporarily locked to the slide until partway through the recoil cycle.
The type of powder used has an effect on accuracy, to be sure. But the amount of powder charge has much less of an effect. And powder itself, both type and charge amount, has a much smaller effect on accuracy than the projectile.
When I’m developing an accuracy load for a handgun, i first see what projectile the gun likes, and i try several. Then i tinker with powder types and finally i tinker with the load of the particular powder to make sure it is clearing power factor.
Honestly, your ability to shoot accurately in a run and gun competition is so much more important than any other factor, that you should check and make sure that your chosen projectile is shooting reasonably accurately, then ensure you are making power factor and that your recoil impulse is not too strong and at that point you’re good to go for a long time.
Once you get to the point that you’re potentially busting into the top or second tier of shooters in your area, you can then start taking a closer look at the accuracy of your particular load, because only at that point will it start making a noticeable difference.


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Very informative! Thank you for the reply.

[Which is most accurate?]

9 minutes ago, Furrly said:

need to make sure you have a power factor of at least 125 if you are going to shot minor in USPSA.... for your current intended purposes the accuracy is irrelavant 

Got it. I will keep that in mind if I decide to try competition. Thanks!

[Which is most accurate?]

At this time, just target shooting at the range. However, I will be attending an intro to competitive shooting this Saturday so I may have to come up with another recipe for competition, I'm assuming. 

[Which is most accurate?]

26 minutes ago, Rnlinebacker said:

Yes a chrono would be the best judge. Chrono both guns with same charge weights

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Please excuse but I've never used one before. What kind of information from the chronograph would allow me to figure out the best load? Is it best average consistency of velocity? Thanks!