Drmike
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Posts posted by Drmike
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That seems like more work than pulling the handle!
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I lose decapping pins too. That is not an issue to me, unavoidable. The bolt that I break is the one that drives the index pawl at the back of the machine. The problem seems to be that the Ammobot cannot detect the tension in the upstroke caused by a primer extending from the bottom of the case which results in too much torque on this bolt which bends it slightly, causing poor indexing unless replaced.
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I have had a Dillon RL 1100 with Ammobot Rev 3 for about a year now that I use for 40SW. I am getting tired of constantly replacing bent index bolts from primer drawback as well as various primer issues. The Ammobot doesn’t seem to be able to sense the extra tension and stop itself. I actually buy the bolts by the dozen and replace 2 or three per 1000 rods loaded. I have an XL650 that I use for 9mm and have had a few problems, but not many. It is 25yrs old. Now I have ordered a Mark VII Pro to load 9mm (pulling the handle messes up my tennis elbow). I have yet to receive it, but now I am wondering ...... should I keep the 40SW Ammobot driven RL1100? Should I sell the Ammobot and buy a Mark 7 to drive my RL1100? Should I sell the Ammobot/RL1100 combination and buy another Mark 7 Pro for 40?
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I just got a second one of these in and mounted it yesterday on my back up production optics gun. Right from the start the wind age clicks were very soft and was never able to zero windage even though elevation responded immediately. My other one has been fine since day one. I guess it needs to go back to sig.
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I have the E2 double undercut and aggressive texture. LOVE IT!
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I started shooting Standard Major with the TSO. LOVED how it fit my hand and loved the light trigger. Switched to the STI DVC L because I just shot it better. It’s the trigger, even if it’s not as light (my TSO was about 1.5lbs), it’s CRISP!
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I am reloading 9mm and 40SW on a Dillon RL1100 with Rev 3 Ammobot. Since switching to S&B primers and adjusting the press for proper seating depth I have broken two dillon shellplates. I have heard that the Everglades Ammo primer hold down die can help with this. Can any of you who have used this die or the Level 10 die comment on your experience with it?
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Thanks guys. Glad to hear. I ordered backup springs but will check the feed lips per spec and adjust all as necessary. Likely some are spreading from dryfire practice with fully loaded mags.
BTW ltdmstr, thanks for the tips regarding Rollsizing. I am now processing all brass with Rollsizer followed by Redding Competition Titanium dies per your recommendation and have zero feed issues and everything passes the case gauge.
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Hi, I just recently shot a match and had two malfunctions that I suspect are due to magazine springs weakening. The mags are new last year, but I (foolishly) brought my dryfire mags (same age) to the match as well as my regular mags. In one instance, I had a round feed backward causing a loss of about 4 seconds to clear it. I unload and reload the mags used after each stage, so I know it wasn't loaded backward. On the next stage, as I was about to stuff my reload, I noticed that the top round was pointing straight up when going into the magwell. The gun is an STI DVC LTD in 40SW. I am unsure of whether this is a mag spring or feed lip issue.
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Thanks ltdmaster, I should have it in a week or so. Got in on a multiple order direct, but covid held up on a literal “slow boat from China
. Looking forward to using it.
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On 4/11/2020 at 8:24 AM, MikeyScuba said:
https://www.westernmetal.ca/shooting-category/smokeless-powders
However I never used it, I use N320 and have a good stash. The new stock federals are up $8-14 per case, I wonder what the new price of VV will be....ugh.
Thanks, i have a supply of N320 right now, but its good to see that this stuff is cheaper than Titegroup at Western Metal
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On 8/8/2018 at 8:37 PM, MikeyScuba said:
From what your reloading bench looks like no wonder!
Where are you getting Sport Pistol in Canada? I’m reloading 9mm and 40sw. I was using Titegroup, now N320, but it’s pricey!
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I am having the same issue with my STI 40. Went from a coated bullet to a plated without changing my powder charge or chronographing because it was cold out. Suspect they are underpowered now. Some idiot loaded 5000 of them before shooting any
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On 4/20/2019 at 11:27 PM, wixthedog said:
I must be one of the few that doesn't like their holster. Granted, I only have experience with a single holster for a 5" 2011 but the fit was horrible. I tried to return it but after the whole restocking fee and shipping brick wall I just threw it in the drawer with the other misfit holsters. I choose Weber Tactical but I fully understand that opinions and experiences can vary and holsers/mag pouches can be a personal thing.
And I believe USPSA gives you 10% off as well.
I just got one for my STI DVC LTD. I was very excited t9 get it as I’ve heard such great things. Mine is so tight I can’t draw it out unless I remove the bottoms screw and loosen the top two right off. Still tighter than I like. Any suggestions on how to remedy this Bob?
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Primer shuttle was rough, had to polish it as well as its race. They were full of chatter marks from machining and caused the primer cam arm to jam. Other than that, very easy. Now i just have to sort out the rough snap of the Mr Bullet Feeder powder funnel.
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On 3/1/2020 at 10:24 AM, ddc said:
What happens if you take a case following the powder station and try to manually place a bullet in it? Is it stable?
Are they the same bullets which previously were placed with no problem? What bullets?
Off the top of my head it seems something is off with the flare.
How fast are you running the bot?
Problem solved by tightening the shell plate and switching to the MBF funnel. Can now run at 2000rds per hour, except that there is a clunk in the Ammobot when it reverses at the bottom of the stroke. Some guys from the Ammobot Facebook page suggested that this may be due to loose chains, so I will check that out tonight.
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On 3/1/2020 at 2:49 PM, Dirtchevy841 said:
How you like the ammo bot?
It's great. I have spent a lot more time working out the kinks with the RL1100. The Ammobot has run flawlessly. It was a PITA putting the primer probe in, but it has saved my but several times with primer drawback.
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Getting the hang of the RL1100. Did about 1000rds manually, then set up the Ammobot. LOVE IT!! After sorting out some small issues, reloaded about 5000 rds with no issue. Now having issues with the bullets tipping over and jamming the press. I am using the original Dillon powder funnel and have tried more bell, less bell, no luck. I will likely switch to the Mr. Bullet Feeder funnel and give it a try, but I have found them to be sticky in the past. Any input would be appreciated.
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On 11/14/2014 at 2:59 PM, ivan said:
There seems to be a mixture of information here, split between "sighting in the gun" and "knowing where you're hitting" which are two different things.
First: get your gun sighted in, then find out if you're hitting near where it's sighted into. If your gun is zeroed properly and your draw and fire shots at X yards are not hitting close enough, then practice practice practice until you are hitting adequately close to point of aim.
As to which distance: that can depend on whether you are shooting a red dot or iron sights. In both cases there is a parallax issue since the line of sight and the line of the bore never line up perfectly. The line of sight is a perfectly straight line. For iron sight guns that line is from the top of the rear sight to the top of the front sight out to the target. For red dot sights that line is from the red dot to the target. In both cases this line is above the bore of the barrel. With iron sights the two are close enough together that you can ignore the difference. However with a red dot it can be significantly greater distance. This means your sight in distance is more important with the red dot.
If you zero a red dot at 15 yards, then the bullet has risen from the muzzle to the target at 15 yards to hit the zero. Then if you shoot at 25, the bullet is still rising, and you will hit higher. Therefore I like to sight in a red dot gun at 25 or greater distance. However as stated above, you must then realize that when shooting 5 yards you are going to hit low. This can be an issue if you're squeaking a shot just over a no-shoot.
The lower the red dot is mounted to the slide, the better as this reduces the parallax issue.
Anyway: once you've got the gun sighted in (yes: using a benchrest is fine), THEN you practice to get your hits near to where the gun is sighted in.
-ivan-
p.s. I suspect you're now sorry you asked
Ivan, do you use a 15 HD zero for your Classic gun?
mikeb
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On 11/17/2019 at 9:08 AM, ltdmstr said:
Yeah, I'm not doing rifle brass. Just 9 and 40. The problem with the original feed tube is that because it's oversized in diameter, the cases would often come down on a slight angle and get hung up on the metal funnel thing, even though the metal tube is tapered sharp as a knife. I suppose just going to a smaller diameter tube would have worked. But I like the straight feed, solid /smaller diameter tube better. It just seems like a better way to go. And I now have zero hangups there. I also have the ammobot motor upgrade for my case feeder and and it will definitely keep up with the machine with all six pins. But it's a jam-o-matic. I'm not sure how to fix that, but will figure something out. I really would like an MA Systems collator, but I only do about 15-18k pieces a year, so I can't justify the cost. As for the spring wires constantly bending, I thought I saw in another post that he's coming out with an upgrade for that. Hopefully, it'll be out soon. If not, I think I'm going to try a piece of flat spring steel in place of the wire. That should be strong enough do the job but flexible enough to not have the bending issues.
Ltdmstr, i am looking at purchasing a rollsizer but am debating between the full commercial machine and the dc version. I will be using it for 9 and 40. I shoot about 40k rounds of 40 per year and about half as much 9. What are your thoughts?
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Just finished chatting with them. I was #5 on the list 2 wks ago and was told that this would be the week mine got shipped. They say that parts are trickling in, but it must be a VERY slow trickle. Now all they will do is tell me that I am still in the queue. I feel sorry for the guys on the customer service line, but I kinda wish that I would have just ordered a 1050. My Ammobot was ordered a month later and is waiting for it.
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2 hours ago, chevrofreak said:
I paid in full for mine with Immortobot on September 13th. Last time I inquired, Dillon had only sent them 2 of the 20 they had ordered.
Getting frustrated....
2 hours ago, chevrofreak said:I paid in full for mine with Immortobot on September 13th. Last time I inquired, Dillon had only sent them 2 of the 20 they had ordered.
Getting frustrated....
They told me they were fulfilling all orders to individuals before they filled dealer orders. Obviously that’s not the case either. Glad you have yours
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On 1/30/2020 at 3:01 AM, Sigarmsp226 said:
RCBS RockChucker for 30+ years - still have and use
Dillon 550 for 1 year - sold
Dillon 650 for 5 years - still have
Dillon RL1100 - just added
Need a larger bench and Reload area now
Just curious, when did you order that RL1100? I’m still waiting for mine ordered Dec 1
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LEE hand loader kit (in a box) with little mallets, fiber wads, and dippers for shotshells. Then LEE Loadall, then MEC 600. Then RCBS (3032) series. Then a RockChucker. Added Dillon XL650 (life changing), then Mr. Bulletfeeder. now very impatiently awaiting my RL1100 with Ammobot Rev3.
Ammobot rev3 with RL1100 or Mark 7 Pro?
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
Posted
Ok, yesterday I decided to try preprocessing instead. I set up my other toolhead with a FW arms decapper (the new spring loaded one is awesome)and swage backup die as well as judge die and Redding sizing die and TNT munitions shellplate. I am able to run it reliably up to 3000cph, no issues with primer drawback with the FW Arms decapper, but still bending the bolts. I did a half a five gallon pail of brass yesterday and bent 6 bolts. I don't think there is too much tension on the shell plate, everything looks perfect. Very frustrated. The good thing about doing the separate processing is that there is no mess with a jam.