Nord

The shroud is not only duck-taped. I also use some other double sided tape. It only covers the ejection area upwards, not anything to the right where the brass is going when ejected. Anyway, it has worked great so far. I only had a few hundred rounds through my gun. I will off course report back if I experience any problems.

Since it may be hard to find info about thread sizes etc. I will post my findings here. I have mounted a SRO without plate on my X5 Legion. According to some advice I found here at the forum it should be possible to avoid the empty case to hit the glass. I did not succeed in avoiding that, even though I switched recoil spring, so I manufactured a homemade shroud from a piece of plastic from a concrete bucket. Having my shroud also protects the glass from powder gases and dirt. In the processing of mounting my SRO I had to find out the following: 1. To remove the iron sight, I needed a 3/32 allen key. 2. To mount the SRO I needed screws 6-40 15/32 screws with T10 heads, and a T10 torx key. 3. According to the SRO manual the SRO should be mounted with a torque of 1.7 Nm. I used 1.7 Nm. 4. I used a Dewalt T10 bit which looked like a spiral after applying a low torque at under 2 Nm, so choose your bit wisely. I succeded when I switched to a Bacho bit. Some bonus info: To remove the magwell I needed a 5/64 allen key. By the way, my screwhead was damaged from factory, so be careful. A new Sig 17 round mag will not fit with the magwell attached, but fits well when magwell is removed, see attached pic. I epoxy bedded the mount to get rid of the gap in front and back of the sight. I only put JB Weld in the gap, not at the bottom of the mounting surface. I roughly followed (425) Rifle Scope Base Bedding Part 1 - Gun Maintenance - YouTube But since the geometry is a bitt different here, I did it in 2 steps. First back, then front. Also I waited for curing 8 hours before I removed the SRO. I used car polish or masking tape on all surfaces I did not want the JB Weld to stick on. The pictures are from before epoxy bedding, but a picture after bedding is not to exciting to look at. Hard to see any visual difference.

Ok, I had a hard time getting hold of a Venom mounting plate, so I bought a Shield RMS sight. I got a Shield mounting plate from CZ online store in EU. Really annoying that they did not include M4 screws to mount the sight on the plate. CZ P10C OR, with Shield RMS. CZ P10C OR Shield RMS, compared to Sig P226 Tacops with Vortex Venom mounted on plate from China, no milling.

Adding some pics on my CZ P10C OR Here is how it looks with a Vortex Venom, directly on the gun without the mounting plate, since I have not got the plate delivered yet. Here you can see that I have my desired cowitness, given that I could somehow mount the Venom directly on the slide. According to my estimations, I will not get cowitness, given that the mounting plate is thicker than 1.5 mm, which I guess it is. I think I will go for a Shield RMS instead.

Does anyone have info on which red-dots that would give me some kind of cowitness on a P10C OR? The question regards P10C OR. That is: P10C ready for optics from factory, and optics mounted with CZ's mounting plates. From pictures on CZ's sites, it seems like the European version has a taller front iron sight compared to the US version. What I mean with cowitness is that I can at least use the iron sights as a backup, in case of red dot malfunction. It is ok, or even good if the iron sight does not line up exact in the dot. I am in particular interested if someone knows if you would get cowitness with Vortex Venom and the European CZ P10C OR, without changing iron sights. I am interested also in experiences with any other setup on the P10C OR. From images on the internet, it seems like you would get cowitness with Shield RMS.