[Shooting my Chronographs.]

Yes plural. I have 2 chronos and shot both of them within about 6 months. One of them was only 2 weeks old out of the package. That one was complete accident via a loose scope mount I was unaware of. Still hurt my feelings pretty bad. The other one I grazed with a bullet... but it was asking for it.

Great repair policy by CE though! Props to them.

[Who makes the best Steel Challenge kit?]

If anyone else is curious the site I linked is for ShootingTargets7. Look them up, good stuff.

[Who makes the best Steel Challenge kit?]

Check these guys out. I have a 12 and 10" target of theirs and love it. I also believe the hook style hanger and targets are the way to go. My practice plates are setup with the spring/bolt system and had I found this website before hand I would have bought my whole set here. Easier to change plates/disassemble and rings better. 

Use my referral link and we both save $10 off any order.

[Admin: quasi-ad link deleted.  Please PM]
 

[Gunsmith for 2011 Carry Build]

On 8/17/2020 at 3:52 PM, Joe4d said:

Id check serial number,, then publicly go off on said M/GM and let everyone know what a POS he is.
No way a shooter at that level didnt know fit was off. 

I don't think I even have the info on the gun anymore. I might have the BOS from the original transfer when he and I traded. I will have to look and see though and will email Jeff. Not for my sake, but to see what Jeff's involvement was if any. I

It's not worth my time either to start a bunch of mud slinging. He is a young shooter like myself and I'll give him the benefit of the doubt publicly. He might have only shot 1 match with the gun and decided he wanted to go back to LTD. Regardless I still got ripped off. If he ever chose to pay me back the $200 cash I gave him it would make me fill as close to whole as possible at this point. He shoots a state away from me, but if I ever see him in person again I will be politely confronting him about it.

[Gunsmith for 2011 Carry Build]

Good idea on verifying serial # though. I will definitely do that research if I ever look at a gun coming second hand from a custom shop. 

[Gunsmith for 2011 Carry Build]

On 8/15/2020 at 6:48 PM, Joe4d said:

Did you verify That he actually worked on the gun ?
I bought a Ganns built gun off this websight, didnt do my due diligence,  gun looked like it had been fit with a rusty hacksaw blade. Turns out the seller was a liar.  Ganns had never worked on the gun based on the serial number which by law they tend to keep track of.

No I didn't. I suppose that is a possibility. The guy whom I traded/bought from said he knew Jeff personally and frequented his shop since they lived 10min apart or something like that. This seller was/is a well known USPSA shooter in his area and I had shot with him before. He is M/GM level, pretty solid shooter. The day we did the exchange he shot the match with us. I even test fired the gun after the match. Extraction/ejection was actually good on it. 

He either fed me a whole line of BS and knew the gun was having barrel link issues. Or he had no idea and was simply trying to move out of open and back in LTD like he said. I'd like to believe it was the latter, but he had shot USPSA matches with the gun so how he didn't break a barrel link I do not know. Especially since I broke 2 links in less than 1k rounds shooting sub major PF ammo. I was super busy on a home renovation project so I didn't realize I had a busted gun until 6 months after I got it and started shooting/loading for the gun.

I traded a reliable gently used edge with 4, gen 1 STI tuned and built magazines plus $200 on my end for a busted open gun with 2 good magazines. I ended up having to let the open gun go for $1k due to it's issues. I didn't have the desire or funds to get it running. Pissed at myself more than anything. Life lesson learned. The whole experience left a bad taste in my mouth for 2011 open guns, especially used ones. I'd like to play with one again, but have no desire to put $3-5k into one worth shooting.

Now I've got a kicka** 1911 open gun from JPL Precision for shooting SCSA and it is keeping my open itch scratched. 

[N340]

I don't know about a CZ S2. But I worked up a load with N340 at 133pf. Test gun was Springfield 5" 1911 9mm with lightened slide and 2 port cone comp. 
 

Bullet: Winchester 124gr FMJ
Primer: Rem SPP

Mixed Brass

Charge Wt: 4.9gr
OAL: 1.145
.377 Crimp 

Velocity: 1075FPS Avg

133PF

 

I didn't shoot a lot of these, just for testing purposes. Very consistent across the chrono. ES of 13 and a SD of 4

ANYTHING is cleaner than TG lol. It will be a sad day if the only powder I can get to load is titegroup. Never again for me.

[Shooters World Powder 9mm]

11 hours ago, Aircooled6racer said:

Hello: It will depend on the bullet you are using for steel challenge. A 95 grain 380 bullet works well at 140PF and is soft like a 22. Since you only shoot 1 shot on each target the comp doesn't have to work as well as double taps on paper. So using 115 grain bullets at 120PF will work great with any powder your gun will run with. That is what some of the top Open shooters are running. Most run a fast powder for steel challenge in the Clean Shot range or faster. I know where you can get some locally Caleb if you need some Shooters World powder. Thanks, Eric

Yep all true. I considered using 380 bullets, but I didn't want to deal with sourcing and loading them. I'll be using 115gr plated or JHPs. 

 

If you are talking about Gary that's who I'm already in touch with about the SW powner  thanks Eric! 

[Shooters World Powder 9mm]

12 hours ago, zzt said:

 

I wouldn't bother.  VV makes excellent powders, but they are more expensive.  Honestly, even if 3N38 were the same price as SWMP, I'd still use SWMP.

 

If you want to work the comp you'll want 140-150.  Ramshot Competition is very close in burn rate to e3.  If you can run 115-125 with a 7 lb. spring, I think you will like it.  I'd go lower if your gun will run it.  I run 109 PF in my PCC and it is soft.

Well that makes things simpler. Thanks for the insight on VV. I've only loaded a couple lbs of N340. I do like the tubular shape over the flakes. Press operates much cleaner. Hopefully when I switch from the dillon measure to the hornady LNL it won't be a concern.

 

Yep the ramshot should tell me if I like the fast stuff. I'll probably load to 1000fps with a 115 and go up from there. I dont like a sluggish gun and I honestly don't think it will run anything less. In fact I think 1050-1100 will be the minimum to run the gun. If I like the faster powder I'll switch my SW order to clean shot instead. 

[Shooters World Powder 9mm]

6 minutes ago, zzt said:

I use Major Pistol under a 115 for major, and under a 124 for minor.  I want the gas to work the comp.  You'll want to stay closer to 1300fps.  If you want to go lower in PF, think a much faster powder like e3 or Sport Pistol.  You won't make the gas, but you'll have minimal recoil.

 

Most SCSA Open shooters I know stay in the 140-155 PF range with a powder in the WAC speed range.  I originally bought a bunch of 3N38 to use for major.  I can't fit enough in to make major with a 115 and still seat the bullet.  So I'm using it under a 124 for steel.  At 140 PF the muzzle rises a little less than my major load.

Well that's why I was thinking of getting ultimate pistol. It's a faster powder, but not so fast that I can't play in the upper range. Part of my problem is I have no idea wether or not I will prefer a 140-150pf or a 125-132pf for steel challenge. I guess I need to load some of both with the powder I have on hand and see. I've got Longshot and ramshot comp on hand so that should give me some sort of baseline for both side of the spectrum. My gun will run both with a 7lb spring. 

 

You mentioned 3n38. You know I thought about getting some 3n37 to try, but the shooters world is available local for a heck of a deal. I still might pick up some VV powder later on. 

[Shooters World Powder 9mm]

I've read several posts on people using Major Pistol for 9mm major loads and enjoying it. However, I've got a single stack open gun, 2 port comp, and I'm trying to decide which SW powder I should go with. I obviously won't be loading major so I'm looking at slightly faster powders. It's a steel challenge gun.

 

My goal is to get a powder I can load up and get some gas as I need it for my comp in steel matches and also load down to typical minor velocities with good performance for other guns. Think 1000-1300fps range with a 115gr.

 

Has anyone tried auto pistol or ultimate pistol?? Experiences, opinions, load data? I was thinking of getting 10lbs of ultimate pistol, but now I'm considering getting 5lb of each or something.

 

Thanks.

[Rimfire Rifle for Youth?]

On 7/7/2020 at 11:35 AM, Hammer002 said:

 

 

Being that you have a 10/22 barrel, you have a good start if you are familiar with putting them together.  They are quite simple.  First, you will want the Blackhawk axiom stock.  This stock has taken the sport by storm due to its great economics, price and incredible light weight.  As far as receiver and bolt, you could go with a stock one, just polish the bolt for reliability.  Or go with something like Tandemkross.  All my insides are KIDD and they are super smooth.  The stock trigger is rough.  I love my KIDD.  Its hands down the lightest and best reset that exists.  There are other companies with reputable products.  Some you can send an existing trigger assembly and they will do a trigger job.  I love the KIDD stuff.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hammer- How did you mount that cheekrest to the axiom stock? Looks like you used 2 bolts/screws of some sort?? I was going to epoxy mine in the highest position so it doesn't move downward when you push down with your face on the cheekrest while shooting. 

Also to the OP- A 10/22 is a great place to start as is a 15-22. Since he is used to shooting an AR the 15-22 may be the best option. I've had both but never used the 15-22 for SCSA. The 15-22 has a lighter bolt I believe and will shoot softer. You can upgrade either platform later on. The 15-22 will cost more upfront as will the magazines. However I do believe the 15-22 is easier to shoot out of the box. If you get the 10/22 get the blackhawk axiom stock and their cheek rest. It really is the best option for a 10/22 race rig. A kidd trigger will be needed for the 10/22.  With some polishing/stoning and a JP reduced power trigger springs the 15-22 could be acceptable. or just use a drop in AR trigger. 
 

 

[Mr Bulletfeeder giving out]

DAA also asked me for proof of ownership when I inquired about purchasing a new wiring harness for my MBF I purchased used form a friend. I snapped a picture of mine and emailed it. Those tiny AWG wires got damaged during shipping/setup. I spliced on a new connector, but sometimes it will short and bypass the cutoff lever so I ordered a new one to replace the next time I take the bullet feeder down. It was like $9-11 I think shipped. It seems no replacement parts are listed on the site, but I bet with verification they will sell any of them to a MBF owner upon request. 

Also for anyone not aware, DAA is now shipping from PA so they must have an office/warehouse there. I was surprised and pleased by this. No more shipping from the Netherlands when I need something direct from them.

I run my MBF on half or just over half speed. It's plenty fast enough for the 650 and there is no need to work it any harder than that.

[Glasses with prescription reading insert - school me]

See what your optometrist can offer with your insurance. My optometrist carries Wiley X and I was able to get frames, prescription insert, 3 lenses and the case for just $100 out of my pocket. I will say that the arms are a bit long for me on my pair and they rest on the pressure point behind my ears and extended wear does give me a headache. I really need to call them about getting a shorter frame. Otherwise I love them. The orange tint lens is perfect for picking up the red dot on my optic guns in steel challenge. 

[cleaning the comp]

On 5/14/2020 at 1:19 PM, AverageJoeShooting said:

Will this strip all the oil off also? I was thinking of just taking my entire barrel with the comp attached and submerging it in this solution while I clean the rest of the gun

Be careful using this method. It will pit/tarnish bare metal. When you mix these you are creating peracetic acid. It will most definitely remove bluing. I found this out myself firsthand. I highly recommend against this method. 

For my 22 comp I use a drill bit slightly smaller than the comp cuts. For my 9mm I'm only shooting TMJ/JHPs.

 

 

On 5/14/2020 at 12:22 PM, hmg1 said:

Ultrasonic cleaner with simple green in it.

The best I used was Outers Foul Out, but that has been discontinued.

 

Do just submerge the whole barrel when you do this? How long do you run it? I have some simple green concentrate that I have used in my ultrasonic diluted with water for cleaning other things.

[Can Ports be used for support?]

Nice post/question. I learned something new today. When I was a novice shooter I learned 10.2.8.2 firsthand   I grabbed my shoulder/bicep with my weak hand (thumb in armpit) type grip. I won't ever forget that! Now I always just make a fist and push against the peck near my shooting arm. You can push on that tendon/muscle and it will give you some stabilizing tension. 

[650- Powder Measure on Station #3]

3 hours ago, ChuckS said:

Nope, never said that. Prior to getting the KISS, my .40 reload setup was this:

 

1) Dillon size and decap die

2) Lee U-die (& prime)

3) Powder measure

4) Seat

5) Crimp

 

I used to occasionally get cases that were too distorted to enter the U-die and would get crushed or just stop the process. The Dillon die was more forgiving. This worked for many years and the other benefit was that there was only one transition from powder to bullet seating so there was less spilled powder. When I got the KISS, the powder measure moved back to #2. I never used a powder check,

Gotcha. Well thanks for confirming that it will work in station #3. If the powder bar hits the MBF die then I'll just make the switch to the Hornady measure. Being a drum style measure it's probably slightly more accurate anyway. Aint no way im giving up using the MBF, that thing rocks  

There are a few reasons I'm making these changes. Smoother operation with case expanding done on its own and gives me more options for expansion die brand and will help reduce bullets tipping over on index. As much as I love the simplicity of the dillon seat die I'm wanting one with a micro adjust for different bullet types and OALs. Not 

 

Hmm one benefit I just realized of powder on station #3 is that I will be able to see case abnormalities/damage easier. Nice!

[650- Powder Measure on Station #3]

18 hours ago, ChuckS said:

Powder in station 3 on the 650 works fine.

 

With the MBF in station 4? 
 

[650- Powder Measure on Station #3]

17 hours ago, stick said:

No reason it won't work.  I have my MBF in station 3, but it could be easily setup in station 4.

That's how mine is setup now. But is the powder measure going to clear the MBF die when it actuates is the question. The powder bar sliding out the back of the measure will hit the MBF if it lines up that way. Seems to be a major issue on the 750 from what I've heard. Don't know how the engineers at dillon didn't think about that one. 

[Dillon Shell Plate Bearing Stuck]

On 6/30/2020 at 10:05 PM, SteelCityShooter said:

The steel balls are certainly magnetic so the magnet on a stick or a magnetic "bolt retriever" would work.  The magnet was my first thought until the OP noted the ball in question was teflon. 

 

Incidentally, for those, like me, still using the stock steel ball, it's a standard 3/8" bearing ball.  Any autoparts or decent hardware store should have a replacement if you lose one irretrievably like down the floor drain.

Hahaha it sounds like you have learned that from experience. There are surprisingly several odd and end parts you can get from a hardware store to replace or even upgrade parts on dillon machines.

 

 

On 6/30/2020 at 10:31 PM, George16 said:

Just use a vacuum cleaner with the flat ended nozzle. It’s the same nozzle use in vacuuming car seats. With this nozzle, the Teflon ball will be stuck on the nozzle’s and not get suck inside the vacuum cleaned.

 

I bet 99% of people have a vacuum cleaner with different nozzles in their homes.

I wouldn't think it would have enough suction but the teflon ball is quite light. Just have to drag the vacuum to where ever your press is.

 

 

On 6/30/2020 at 7:15 PM, Bkreutz said:

Piece of hose and a hand vacuum pump (or you could put the end of the hose in your mouth and suck). The vacuum would grab the ball. I thought about all the jokes that this reply could generate, but decided to post it anyway.

Hey this isnt a forum full of pipesuckers! LOL I actually like this method for a quick/clean/minimalist approach. Just would need a piece of hose small enough in diameter. Probably 1/2" outer or smaller.



All great responses. Thanks for sharing! It sounds like a can of compressed air would be the most convenient method for teflon and a small magnet for the steel bearing.

[650- Powder Measure on Station #3]

17 minutes ago, Aggrofish said:

I dont have a bullet feeder I have the seating die in 4 and the crimp in 5. My powder drop is always in #3 whether it's .223 or 9mm on a 650 XL

Well that confirms my 1st question! thanks for weighing in. I guess one way to test it is just use one of my spare empty tool heads/powder measures and see where the powder bar is going to be sliding at. Should be easy to tell if it will hit the MBF when full setup is installed that way. The MBF is a PITA to move around! 

[650- Powder Measure on Station #3]

Loading on a dillon 650 here.

I've heard you can use a dillon powder measure on station #3 and the fail safe rod can still be used as intended. Is this true? Also if you are using an MBF in station #4 does this become an issue where the powder bar hits the MBF die/body?

I'm wanting to try this setup so I can expand/bell the case on station #2 and eliminate using the dillon/MBF funnel to bell the case. Smoother operation and less powder spillage being the main reasons. 

For any confusion here is the order of operations
#1- Size/Decap

#2- Expand/Bell, prime
#3- Dillon Powder drop
#4- MBF Bullet feeder
#5- Seat/Crimp

If this setup doesn't work I'm thinking about ditching the dillon measure entirely and going with the Hornady AP powder measure system. If anyone has experience with that setup I'd also like to hear about it. Thanks all. 
 

[Dillon Shell Plate Bearing Stuck]

22 hours ago, AHI said:

shop vac

When it was stuck that crossed my mind as well. Just remember to remove the bag inside the vav before you do it haha. I wonder if it would still pick up the steel bearings. A small magnet on a dowel would maybe work for that, no idea if the bearings are magnetic or not. 

[New 1911 Open Rig]

38 minutes ago, hiker88 said:

Very nice! Can you post pictures of the comp from the top? 

Sure thing. I don't have any finished pictures from that angle but here are some John sent me while he was building it. It's got dykem all over it haha. He makes the comp from scratch himself.

[Dillon Shell Plate Bearing Stuck]

So I ran into this issue the other day on my 650 whilst doing some maintenance. As you can see in the picture the ball bearing that the shell plate rides on has fallen into the hole where the shell plate bolt goes. Now I have ran into this issue once before, and only once on my dillon 550 a few years ago. The 550 was easy enough to get out because a pick can be inserted into the retaining screw hole on the side of the ram and it can popped up and out of the hole. From that day forward I made sure to simply put the shell plate bolt back in its hole as soon as the shell plate was removed. 

Well I broke my own rule and down my bearing went, but this time on the 650. The retaining screw hole doesn't align the same as it does on the 550. So I had to use another method. 

Seeing as my bearing ball is teflon and quite light I grabbed a large brass punch handy on my bench and put a glob of generic silicon on the end of it. Carefully inserting the punch into the shellplate hole I pushed it against the bearing ball to adhere on it for a few moments and gingerly lifted it out of the hole. So that was my method. My next option would have been to plug up the air compressor and try and simply blow it out. Also maybe yet another good reason to keep a can of compressed air on the bench.

Curious to hear other solutions and hopefully this thread will help some poor soul if they make the same mistake. When it happened I scoured the web and couldn't find a similar thread. I wanted to share my method and see if anyone else has ever encountered this. Surely I'm not the only doofus to have done so.