IVC
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Posts posted by IVC
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On 4/22/2024 at 8:52 PM, rayw1128 said:
Understood, I feel that I do need to slow down on to fire the second shot. I tried to do predictive shooting, but can't confidently call my second shot.
Keep on working on it. And don't slow down for the second shot to confirm the sights before firing, that would defeat the purpose of learning to call it. As it says in one of the books (can't remember which one), "you can't learn to run by walking fast." It's a different endeavor.
Try without target (you don't need it for this drill initially), firing into the berm, fast. All you want to get to is registering two "flashes" of the dot. Initially doesn't even matter where the second flash is, just that you can register it. Once you can do that, and only once you can do that, you can start fine-tuning the second flash to be consistent and "close" to the first one. As a side issue, the "closeness" of this second flash determines the size of target that *you* can engage with predictive technique.
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On 4/22/2024 at 11:50 PM, xrayfk05 said:
If you are looking to save time, doubles is not it.
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Not saying shooting doubles isn't a great drill, but only for the right reasons.
On 4/23/2024 at 6:20 AM, shred said:A new shooter should use Doubles Drill as a Grip and Vision drill first and foremost. Improving those will improve scores.
^^^ This is a great summary - the purpose of the drill is not to save a tenth of a second on the split, or even to get a consistent alpha on the second shot. Neither split nor score matters if you don't "see" the second shot, which is the purpose of these drills.
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What you really need to understand is "calling the shot," not the aiming. If your limit on the split is the aiming (hard shot), you have to use different (standard) technique.
The second shot at close range is a "predictive shot," where you do not wait for the sight picture, relying on your grip to bring the gun into "good enough" vicinity of the initial shot. However, you MUST "call the second shot" by registering where the sights are as you fire. This is not only how you train your grip to get you back on target, but also how you "know" whether your second shot is good or not. If you don't call both shots, you need to slow down to the speed of your eyes/brain as you fire the second shot.
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Belling is an intermediary step, so it really doesn't matter in the end. The only reason not to bell too much is metal fatigue at the case mouth. I bell just enough to get my MBF-dropped bullets remain in place as they are dropped. If they drop correctly but shake loose moving to the next station, I'll increase the neck expansion before adding belling. Remember, neck expansion and belling are different steps.
As for crimp, I do measure the overall thickness of the round and calibrate the die. It ensures that mixed brass and various bullets stay within spec and pass the hundo gauge. Too little and the bullets won't stay put, too much and you start losing accuracy. But also keep in mind that brass thickness varies for mixed brass, so forcing the exact crimp will cause variable pressure on the bullet.
For low recoiling rounds, including some rifle rounds such as 223, you don't even have to crimp. The brass is elastic and will keep the bullet stay put with the neck tension alone. A bonus is that using only the neck tension takes the wall thickness out of the equation - you get each round held by the natural elasticity of the brass with approximately the same force, while the finished round will vary slightly in measured crimp due to the variation in brass thickness. You trade consistent diameter of the rounds for consistent pressure on the bullet.
Just remember that you still have to remove the bell no matter what your preferred crimp is. If you adjust your die to take out the bell, which you confirm by passing the gauge, you're at the good starting point. And to make sure you took the bell out, measure and calibrate the crimping die (which is what I do). From there, add crimp if you need to.
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Winchester primers seem to have gone downhill recently, they don't look uniform and are not all flat. As if monkeys have been churning them out lately. They'll get stuck in the primer tubes, so I often drop the primer rod down the tube while the tube is still on top of the primer magazine. That way I know all the primers are out before removing the tube.
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A high-end shooter is like any other tool. It gets heavily used, it needs maintenance and parts will eventually have to be replaced.
With a 2011, if your frame is solid and your slide fit is good, you have a "good gun." The grip will outlast other parts and you have to replace spring and eventually the barrel (needs fitting). Action usually last a very long time, but it's also something that can be easily replaced if there is a need.
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One: It's not "aim, fire," it's "keep the gun on target while operating the trigger."
Two: Think of support hand as if you're shooting a rifle - it holds the gun on target, while the dominant hand runs the trigger and provides a disruption.
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4 hours ago, Kravi said:
As I mentioned above, with a G45 I can get nice tight pairs with a .19 split. With a G17.5, my pairs, when shooting .19 splits, are closer to 2 - 4 inches apart. If I slow down the G17.5 to .22 splits, though, they tighten back up again.
The gun recoils up, then passes the original POI some time before .19 to end up a few inches low at around .19, settling at the original POI at .22. This means that something is driving the gun down and it can be the spring or you. To determine which one you will have to try a few things, from faster splits to firing just the first shot and watching the sights.
And "driving the gun" is somewhat contentious concept. Even the highest level shooters adapt some specific pressure during recoil to match their particular gun, which is "driving the gun" of sorts. If the muzzle doesn't dip, or doesn't dip much, it's considered static recoil control, while in reality there is a lot of gray area.
If you look at some older videos of Miculek shooting big bore revolvers fast, the muzzle starts going up and then he "readjusts his grip" and shoots it flat. The readjustment is to match the input through the hands with the massive recoil. If everything was truly "static" about the recoil control, there would never be need for any adjustment.
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While it could be the recoil spring, if you're new it's more likely that you're "driving the gun" by proactively pushing into it as you fire to minimize the muzzle raise.
Note that this is not a flinch (far from it), but it's still a deficiency in technique because it requires very precise timing while not providing any benefit over "static" recoil control. The correct way is to use your support hand to clamp on the gun and prevent it from "dancing" around, while not adding to it with a push from the strong hand.
Try shooting at the berm, only registering where the shot fired (calling the shot). You cannot just take one sight picture and fire two shots without registering where each one of them went; you can start this way, but until you actually see when/where the second shot fired you're not there. As you speed up and focus on the second shot, you'll see at what point (split time) it starts to dip and you can then pay attention to how much you're pushing with your strong hand and ease off.
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Thanks! I'll look up some of those grips and see if it makes sense for the small amount of shooting I expect with this gun. Good to hear I'm not the only one with the issue.
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A few days back I took out one of my 1911s for some random range blasting and realized that the grip, being slightly narrower, creates strange pressure point in the webbing of my palm to the point that I notice it and register as "unpleasant." Something that I never feel with 2011s, plastic double-wides [sic], or N+ frame size revolvers.
This was a Kimber in 10mm, shooting my Limited .40 major loads, nothing even hot. Quick Background: my SVI .40 got repurposed for 9mm L/O so I now have a bunch of long-loaded .40s that won't fit into CZ/Tanfoglio magazines, hence I wanted to test how it worked in a 10mm 1911 I had laying around.
Anyone else notices similar issues with the narrower grip? Any suggestions?
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21 hours ago, Farmer said:
So if on duty LEO’s, FBI ect show up you are required to disarm them? Not joking.
20 hours ago, RangerTrace said:On duty to watch and hang out, no. If they are getting to shoot the match while on duty, yes.
This applies to spectators too, not just law enforcement. The DQ under 10.5.13 applies to competitors since non-competitors cannot be DQ-ed from a match they aren't participating in. They could be asked to leave instead, but there are no specific USPSA rules that would require or authorize MD/RM to ask legally armed non-participants to leave, which would be the only remedy.
In fact, I am not sure whether it could be a range violation to be legally armed at a cold range while not participating in the shooting activities and whether the host organization could enforce it in any way. Rule 3.3 allows rule deviation only for compliance with the local law (and having a CCW is not violation of the local law), while the only other rule that provides additional authority to the host organization is 10.7.3 about prohibited substances (where the host is implied to be able to have additional rules that are not covered by the USPSA).
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11 hours ago, ALL_comped_EVERYTHING said:
Narrowed it down. Dillon Super 1050 vs RL 1100. What are the major differences and which is better? Mainly will be loading 9mm
1100 is a newer model with a few nice improvements, so it should be your default choice between the two. The only potential negative is that 1100 cannot load some very long rifle cartridges that 1050 can, but in exchange you're not moving the toolhead as much and you get a more efficient stroke (in a way).
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14 hours ago, Dr Mitch said:
Reloading is simple. Way too many years of people making it out to be complex. Brass+Primer+Powder+Bullet. Make one good cartridge, repeat indefinitely.
Yup, and this is much easier and safer done on a progressive press. With other types, the "repeat" part requires paying attention and not making a human error. With progressive presses, one you get to the "make one good cartridge" the "repeat" process is quite safe and much less prone to human error.
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If we stop with the dogma of "don't start on the progressive" we can look into the real reason for single-stage presses - the inherent "variability slop" in progressive presses. Something that is irrelevant for combat-style shooting and even for pretty high precision shooting, but becomes an issue for extreme precision disciplines.
A single-stage press, where each round is individually "crafted," powder is measured to the few 100ths of a grain, cases are meticulously prepared for uniformity and OAL is set within 1000th of an inch to match the *exact* chamber of a trued action behind a super-duper match barrel, well, that's where a single-stage shines. A progressive will never be within those tolerances. But also don't forget that a progressive can produce ammo that is "more accurate" than the average barrel.
Those tight tolerances of a single-stage are completely unnecessary for 99% of the shooting. That's the second "dirty little secret" about reloading on a progressive, the first being that one can easily start and learn to reload on a progressive press. Combined, there is little reason not to start with a progressive press if any significant amount of ammo production is anticipated.
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Comparing progressive presses to flying or similar skilled tasks is counterproductive.
Progressive presses do not require extra skill or even extra education. In fact, progressive presses allow one with less education to produce systematically consistent and reliable ammunition. Virtually all double charges and most of the squibs happen with other types of presses. Once set up, a progressive press can allow even a person without understanding of the details to crank out good ammo fast.What progressive presses do require is analytical approach to the initial setup, where the press is configured, then a decent protocol for controlling the QC and confirming everything is still in spec. But this is also what single-stage presses require - setting up everything that is set up on the progressive, and pretty much in the same way. There is no way around adjusting sizing, priming, neck expansion, bullet seating and crimping. And powder drop is much safer and easier when done on the progressive, because there is no room for human error while pulling the lever.
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But you guys are right, I've never seen a whole squad get through a Texas star cleanly and getting scored truly correctly. It's usually "keep shooting until clear" whether it hits the arm, a plate knocks down another plate or a plate requires more than one shot. It's fun and it works out at local matches, but not acceptable when people get too serious about competitiveness.
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Resetting Texas star can be done very efficiently and by one person, but there are many (sort of) wrong ways of doing it that require more people or are tedious.
For one person the process is to collect the plates and stack all of them flat on the support housing above the ball bearing with bases offset by about 10-20 degrees so it's easy to grab each plate by the stem. When they are all ready, insert them one at a time at the arm positioned at 90 degrees, using one hand to pick up the next stacked plate and the other to hold the arm at 90 degrees against the weight of the plates already on the star. This way there is only one step of picking up the plates and another of inserting them while standing up and only advancing the star by one arm at a time.
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Thanks guys, it seems that there isn't an easy or reliable way to know which way the miss went... It's unfortunate as it makes learning and training that much harder.
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On 1/28/2024 at 8:33 AM, Tunachaser said:
Only if it fails calibration and only poppers are subject to calibration 4.3.1.5.
Not quite - plates that don't fall are an automatic REF/reshoot (rule 4.3.1.6) precisely because of calibration only applying to poppers. That's why plates (and Texas stars) are very rarely seen at higher level matches.
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I'll add another consideration. When pricing presses, remember that 1050/1100 come with case feeder and 650/750 don't. To get a good comparison, configure both presses to what you would actually order and then compare "as configured." You'll suddenly see that the price is not nearly as different as you'd initially guess.
I was thinking of getting a 650 (at the time, before 750) to use it in parallel with the 1050, but when I configured it the way I would use it, the price advantage wasn't big enough to justify it.
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+1 on "it's a total dick move."
The guy didn't handle the gun, he asked an RO what to do, which happens to be the correct procedure in many/most situations and it's explicitly allowed under 2.5.2 when there is no dedicated unloading station. It's not unsafe behavior per se, or it would be forbidden at all times.
Being an LEO or being late doesn't matter, it was his first match and he at worst violated a technicality about how long it took him to talk to an RO, or whether there was an unloading station when he pulled in. How fast is "immediately" in 2.5.2 anyways?
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3.2 gr is the default magic number for N320 and 147s. From there you dial up or down in 0.1 gr increments if you have to.
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More stations allow you to do tasks in separate stations, easier to do QC and more options for running dies in the order you prefer.
For example, separate seating and crimping on 9mm allows you to use a micrometer seating die and have preset OAL dial position for different bullets (or just different OAL) for quick bullet change.
Then you have priming on the down-stroke and very robust primer depth setting.
And you can swage, size, trim and neck-expand rifle brass in one pass, then load in the next.
Can't start a shooter unloaded, told ya lol
in USPSA/IPSC Rules
Posted
Not seeing the controversy, it's clear and the OP is correct - cannot start loaded when unloaded is required and vice versa.
But it's also true that local clubs at level 1 will not always go by all the rules, including this one. The "reshoot arguments" are often not worth it. This is just the reality on the ground.