mofosheee
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Posts posted by mofosheee
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5 minutes ago, ltdmstr said:
It doesn't make a lot of sense to spend the money on an expensive aftermarket barrel if it's not going to be fit to your specific firearm. Any drop-in barrel has to have a hood width and length that's narrow and short enough to accommodate the extreme small end of the spec range. So, for everyone else, it's less than optimal. Other critical areas are similarly compromised. Bar-Sto barrels are excellent quality. They have button cut rifling (as does KKM), and are extremely reliable, durable and accurate if installed by a competent gunsmith.
Agree. Lesson learned. Must have been an off day at Bar Sto. As a machinist, I am not at all impressed with the part. Close examination of this barrel shows rather marginal machine work around every surface of this barrel.
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3 hours ago, Joe4d said:
If it is hand cycling with dummy rounds first thing Id do is check the ejection pattern of the fired rounds,, gointo about the same place as rounds fired in the other barrel ? , barrel is probably tight, or not fit all the way basically. Also check out the extractors,, damaged or burred or hitting the barrel ? Haven messed with Glocks much hard to diagnosis without looking at it.
Agree, Bar-Sto hand cycled fine with dummy rounds. Reinstalled the OE Glock barrel and the problem went away.
Found that the Bar-Sto barrel has noticeable lateral slop / play when in battery while there is ZERO side play
with the Glock barrel in battery. Bar Sto barrel measures .016 thinner at the breach face than the
Glock.
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13 hours ago, mofosheee said:
Hello Joe4d
Going into this, I understood that the barrels weren't drop in and that fitting was necessary.
After that fitting was done, I found the slide to cycle smoothly empty and with dummy rounds I had laying around.
A variety of over-the-counter ammo was used, that plunked and dropped out of the barrel.
The problem is the rounds never make it into the chamber.
Whata waste
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Hello Joe4d
Going into this, I understood that the barrels weren't drop in and that fitting was necessary.
After that fitting was done, I found the slide to cycle smoothly empty and with dummy rounds I had laying around.
A variety of over-the-counter ammo was used, that plunked and dropped out of the barrel.
The problem is the rounds never make it into the chamber.
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So, I rolled the dice and bought the Bar-Sto barrel for my box stock G30.
Sad to say that the reliability of the gun with the Bar-Sto barrel is in the toilet. Ran a variety of ammo to find that
the pistol now has repeated failures to feed.
Never once had a failure with the Glock barrel. What a waste.
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Hello BE Forum
It's well known that it can be easier to spend more money on fixtures and tooling than it is on a part. For example, the
obscenely priced carbide lug cutter from Brownell's. I do not do enough of these to justify the expense.
Does anyone have records of an improvised tool / fixture for cutting a 1911-barrel hood other than a good ole file or the unobtainable $$$$ Everglades tool? I'd like to see your tooling pictures. Thanks again for all the responses!
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Nice work on the jig Mike!
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18 hours ago, zzt said:
Don't buy the Brownell's lug cutter. The finish is so coarse you will remove too much metal trying to stone or sand out the machining marks. Their barrel holding tool is also crap. I learned the hard way, so you don't have to. Their .195 cutter removes too much. If you insist on Brownell's, use the .186 for roughing. You'll have about .008" left to remove It's a PITA, but doable.
Nowlin makes a superb centering/holding tool. Used in conjunction with your alignment block, you are assured of a perfectly centered barrel. https://www.nowlinarms.com/product/barrel-feet-alignment-tool/
Chambers Custom makes superb barrel leg cutters. https://www.store.chamberscustom.com/products/1911-barrel-leg-cutters Many different diameters, including custom. You could start with a .192" or .193. Beautiful finish and not much left to remove by hand, if any. You'll have to order a pilot with the cutter and you'll need the Brownell's handle, or something like it. Don't turn the cutter backwards or you will dull it. This adds up quickly, but it is better than ruining a barrel.
The Weigand jig is nice if you are going to do a lot of barrels. At the current price of $399 plus shipping it's not worth it for a couple of barrels.
BTW, a 5mm end mill is .1969". Too large. If you can find a resharpened 5mm, that might do.
Now you tell me
Yes, the tool looked rather course. I bought the; 0 .186" cutter. Agree, Weigand is nice but I only have one barrel to do.
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I made the alignment block and fitted the hood yesterday (easy enough)
Yes, zzt. Today, trying to find a work around for cutting the bottom lugs without buying the tool.
I don't see a better option after looking at the Brownells lug cutter. Probably have to bite the bullet
Thanks
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Thought so. Thanks for backing me up!
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Just received a new 1911 semi fit Wilson barrel. I have a mill and steel.
Would somebody out there tell me why I shouldn't make my own barrel lock-up / alignment block for fitting the barrel? Looks like a simple tool.
Thanks
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Thank you Braxton
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Wouldn't work in my commander or officer. Scrubs the spring.
Thanks for the response!
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I have questions about the 1911 parts pictured.
hammer strut pictured right with the small radius; I've been trying to find details as to what 1911 the "more bowed" hammer strut is used in. Scarce info online. Anybody familiar with this?
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Thanks..............while I have powder coating equipment, I've never powder coated lead
Would you method be as:
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Shoulda stated that my inventor is; Penn 9mm powder coated and non coated 45cal RN and SWC. I'm unsure of its tendency to plate out in a barrel.
Not wanting to push the envelope, I keep an eye on my hardware. These issues can be a PITA and are easily addressed. Better safe than sorry.
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Yeah, I saw the price. I'll stick with the Hornady
Thanks again!
2 hours ago, 85win said:I’ve tried the Sierra’s and they did well, but they are too expensive!! Hornady HAP’s are almost half the cost.
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Have to say the stock G30 barrel shoots well. It's all about shootin lead.
Very much appreciate the responses! Lots of positive about the KKM's
Thanks again
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Mr 85win
Thanks for the info! This gives me a starting point.
Yes, every gun is different. As stated, mine's a 3.78" barrel (that's what I got wrapped up on) ..............I'll use the AA#2 and chrono everything.
best regards
jerry
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I have no reason to doubt you. Thanks
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Hello Forum
I've been looking for a start load for the bullet mentioned above to be fed into my Glock30SF (3.78" barrel)
Powders on hand; W231, Titegroup, AA2, AA5, AA7. My preference is W231.
Plenty of online data for the XTP version, unable to find data for the HAP and 3.78" barrel.
What say the experts?
Thanks again
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I have a Colt Mustang .380 Series IV, Series 80 (pre polymer) that has been sitting in my safe for about 35 years. I recall it was feed sensitive, failing to chamber some rounds.
Since I'm reloading these winter days, is there anybody out there in forum land that can suggest a load that would work in this pistol?
Such as grain of bullet, RN or hollow point. Or should I buy off the shelf ammo and test? Thanks again.
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On 12/7/2022 at 4:05 PM, dtuns said:
I hade one for a G35 it shot well. I no longer have the gun but have the barrel if you're interested.
I don't have a G35...............thanks anyway
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Hello Forum
Considering the age old debate regarding feeding a Glock lead, I'm curious about the Bar-Sto barrels.
With a mountain of lead (for reloading) that I've acquired over the years.............what say the forum members on these barrels.
Thank you!
45 ACP loads without stepping into +P territory
in 44/45 Caliber
Posted · Edited by mofosheee
Hello BE forum
I have a Colt 45 Defender (3" barrel with aluminum frame) and got to thinkin how do I know that I'm not creating loads in the +P envelope
and
does anybody have a suggestion for loads that this pistol might like?
Thanks!