mofosheee
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Posts posted by mofosheee
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12 hours ago, Chills1994 said:
I would drop that resized miscellaneous range brass into a case gauge.Back when I first started reloading .308 Winchester for an M1A in the mid 1990’s, I bumped the shoulders too far down, and there was a little bit of a ridge at the shoulder that made the rounds difficult to chamber.
The Dillon case gauge has a step milled into the headstamp end.
If the resized brass’s head stamps sat below that lower step, you done squished the cases down too far and you would have excessive headspace. If the head stamp sits proud of the whole Dillon case gauge, you didn’t resize the case down enough. (Or there a speck of grime or a media granule/kernel stuck inside the case gauge)
Flush or slightly below flush, but not below that milled step, that’s perfect. That is the Goldilocks setting.
The resized cases gauged flush
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Thanks for backing me up on using the expander manderal
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2 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
Not worried in the least. Just sharing a similar experience. Everyone figures out their own process in due time.
Good luck on your reloading venture.
And thank you for sharing that.
I set up the Redding Type S die, measured some of my spent brass and a handful of random range brass using the Hornady comparator. The shoulder of my spent brass measured 1.463" ish while some of the range brass measured longer. Ran this brass through the Redding Type S sizing die and bumped the shoulders back receiving a consistent 1.460". AOK so far.
Moving on to the range brass. Readings between 1.450" and 1.459" were obtained.
My understanding is that the resizing die is for pushing a shoulder measuring too long in the negitive direction. The die doesn't add to shoulder length. How to deal with this brass please. Thanks again
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Yes, I am seeing those variences in thickness as described. One more reason to sideline the competition neck seating die. Thanks!
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1 hour ago, Boomstick303 said:
I started to go down this path and realized I was over complicating the reloading of 223/556. I returned that die and did not go down that road.
You can Neck size, but it is completely unnecessary. You can also incorrectly size your brass neck if you do not know what you are doing.
Once again I turn to Erik Cortina for this information.
That thought has crossed my mind.
I'm right off 25 and county line road if you are ever in the hood.
Thanks again Broom!
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Worry not. I was trending towards that die anyway. I'm just getting into reloading rifle. Much different than pistol. As I descended into this rabbit hole unwise purchases were expected.
Volumes more positive press on the Type S die than the Redding micrometer competition neck bushing sizing die that I currently have. I found that neck bushiing sizing die to be way overkill. But I do like the micrometer seating die that came in the kit.
In the spirit of safety, I consider brass a consumable. Aware of work hardening and I have an annealer. With my current experience level and at this time I prefer to hand deprime for inspection purposes. Yes, I have the RCBS deswager.
You state you have your pet method/technique. Mine is not very far off of yours.
With a long history in machining I'm extremely OCD about details to a detriment. Just wanna be safe. Thanks again!
p.s. I'm not liking my Dillon powder dispensor
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pm me for my address if you need it
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13 hours ago, Chills1994 said:
The problem….that I think….there is with traditional decapping rod/pin and expander ball asemblies is that pulling that neck over the expander ball can:
A. Stretch the case
B. Pull the neck or case mouth off center leading to concentricity issues.
In theory….
Which is one of the reasons I went with just the neck bushing in a Redding S die.
(There are some regular traditional full length sizing dies where you can get a carbide expander ball replacement that would help with the stretching of the neck and reduce the possibility of pulling it off center. Otherwise, you should be getting enough lube inside the case necks. And properly tumbling that lube off.)
Conversely, you could use a universal decapper to knock just the old primer out.
Then take the decapping rod assembly out of a traditional full length sizing die.
Then use something like the Lyman M die to open the case mouth/case neck up just enough.
Somebody on another forum clued me in about Single Pass Rifle Reloading (SPaRR) and moving the Dillon PM to the #3 or #4 station in the 650’s toolhead.
Me? Personally?
I am trying to avoid:
1. Trimming brass or at least going through the motions of inserting brass into a trimmer.
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Did you buy the Hornady case comparator tool yet?
Yes, I now have the Hornady case comparator.
The Redding type "S" bushing die arrived in the mail last night. Need bushings.
Regarding the topic of "expander manderals" and stretching of the neck. What's wrong with running a case through the Type S bushing neck die followed by an expander manderal to final size the case opening? (see attachment) I believe that the Lyman M die mentioned above is similar my disassembled expander die (attachment)
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7 hours ago, Chills1994 said:
When I get back to my reloading shop, I will have to check out the latest virgin Starline .223 brass I bought.There is actual like documented in an US Army manual instances of Lake City brass being thin on one side of the body. Upon firing the round, the case develops a curve to it like a banana. And that shows up as bullet runout or concentricity issues.
I have a picture or screen shot from the manual on my phone, somewhere.
In my case, I think it might be a toolhead alignment problem with this 20 year old 650. I haven’t bought the Dillon alignment tool yet.
I am going to try reloading some .223 on my newer, 5 year old 650. And see if that helps with the concentricity issues. If I am still having runout issues, then I will revert back to my single stage and check for concentricity again.
But for what we are doing with .223 in AR gas guns, I am thinking that variances in case neck or case mouth thickness aren’t going to make that big of a difference at the distances we normally shoot.
I have the Dillon alignment tool if you want to borrow it............
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15 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
No, these are gas guns. There is not that level a tight tolerances to warrant that method. What I do is take a manufactured round I know works well in all of my guns and I base my measurements off that. I use a Fortster Full length sizing die. When it sizes it drags an expander ball through the neck for consistent neck sizing. I chose that die after quite a bit of research. I am sure others do as good of job, but I went the Forster dies for my 223 reloading.
I appreciate your valuable input and prespective. I'll keep it simpler!
Jerry
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15 hours ago, Farmer said:
With a spring loaded ejector in the bolt it would be extremely difficult to do. It would have to be removed first. No insult intended but I think you are really really really overthinking this.
No offense taken and I appreciate the reminder. I was an OCD machinist and get wrapped up on details and specs.
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Just curious,
Is there a method of employing the "tape technique" as Erik Cortina demonstrates but, on a gas gun?
At the 10 minute mark; https://youtu.be/htvk1UYOXm8
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And that was a stupid question.............
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21 hours ago, Farmer said:
I don’t know where in my postings that quote came from that I said the S die also FL sized. You can get them either way, neck or full length. Just a bit confused on where that came from.It's all great information. All responses are much appreciated.
From the advice given on the forum and my feelings that the redding competition micrometer neck sizing die are somewhat unnecessary, I'm looking to purchase a Redding Type S or a similar Lee resizing die. I have a quantity of 77 gr Hornady projectiles. I'm not attempting to push any reloading envelopes. It's my understanding that case / powder volume limitations may occur. Would it be recommended to use the Ackley dies?
Thank you!
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Just now, mofosheee said:
Pleased to meet you. I'm in Monument
Jerry
and a member
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1 hour ago, Boomstick303 said:
Yes as long as the die is set up properly. Something to take into consideration is not all barrels will have the exact same chamber dimensions. Let us assume one does not set up a sizing die exactly correct. The rounds might chamber in certain barrels that have "looser" chambers than others. It does not mean that same round would work in a barrel with a chamber that is tighter to spec. I have numerous AR with a few different flavors of barrels. My main gamer rifle has a Stretch Precision 16" barrel. From my understanding those were designed with a bit "looser" chamber and will almost any ammo within reason. It does not mean a round that will chamber in that rifle will chamber in every barrel if the set up of the die set up was slightly off.
To make a long story short, when you reload rifle rounds make sure they work for every rifle you intend to use them for.
Yes sir, I belong to the HPPS board that puts on the USPSA matches out there and I Match Direct the Big Ben 2 Gun matches out there. I will occasionally help the TAC rifle dudes put on their match.
Pleased to meet you. I'm in Monument
Jerry
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21 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
When reloading rifle cartridges' that have shoulders that shoulder bump will be the most important part of sizing. Erik Cortina has made a YouTube video that helped me out a lot to get this correct.
Hope this helps.
Hello Broom.............I bet your're you a Ben Lomond member? thanks for the vid
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3 hours ago, Farmer said:
The Redding S type die will also full length resize and do that shoulder bump thing.
Having done a lot of pistol, I understand magazine limitations and seating depths mentioned above. I have an OCD thing going on and get wrapped around the axle over details like the "shoulder bump thing". Don't wanna make "tomato stakes". My current set up is very similar to Chills
Please allow me to rephrase my original question. Would I be safe to assume that about any .223 re-sizing die properly set up will bring my cases and case shoulder geometry/angles/dimensions back or close to SAAMI specs?
As stated in the above responses, if chambering/ejecting problems occur, focus on seating depth and shoulder set-back, inspect brass after firing.
Excellent details provided in the above responses. Thank you!
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Hello BE forumI'm new to reloading rifle and struggeling with dies and resizing. My equipment is a Dillon 650 and a single stage Redding. The bullets will be 5.56 for a gas gun. I'll be using range brass, inspected and separated by maker.I have; dies, case gauges, micrometers and verier calipers...everything (I think) and I'm trying to ask the right question. Understanding that brass undergoes deformations during firing and that resizing is necessary.Shoulder area defined as between 1.438" and 1.557" (per attachment) If I were to take a dozen or more spent cases from various manufactures and run them through a full length resizing die, those cases would now all be close to identical with the same dimesions and profiles to include the shoulders? Would a loaded round that fails to seat properly in a case gauge (too deep or not enough) be the indicator of an out of tolerance shoulder?
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Would someone help me out with this please. I'm trying to sort the following definitions/process out. We have;
decapping, also known as de-priming...........correct?
After decapping/depriming some cases need to be swaged or decrimped.
that swaging a primer pocket is a process of cold working a case with a press to reform that primer pocket to accept a new primer............correct?
and swaging is the same as decrimping?
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14 hours ago, SnipTheDog said:
.223 Rem is what you're looking for. But if your rifle is chambered for 5.56, then why not load for 5.56? .223 and 5.56 are very, very, close, but there are some differences.
Then what differentiates a .223 load from a 5.56? Is it Powder?
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Can someone help me out with the following.
New to reloading rifle. Collecting; supplies, tools and literature for reloading for my; 20" 5.56 AR using a mix of military and .223 commercial brass.
I am confused as to which die set should I be using for reloading this round.
Thank you.
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Yes, I have a chrono. It's a new pistol and I haven't made any loads yet.
Was using; 5.6gr W231 on a 230gr @ 1.245" in a 4.25" barrel........forgot what vel they were.
Thinking that a 185gr (or lighter) bullet would seem more ideal
Do the bump........but how much?
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
Farmer..........I'm seeing the elongations in the cases that you said I should expect after resizing. For example, one case measured 1.754 before resizing and 1.760 after. This growth is where the shoulder is moved forward.
My original thoughts about the forces and flow of brass within the sizing die was was wrong. Thanks!