JDIllon
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Posts posted by JDIllon
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1 hour ago, Cuz said:
if you have a 100% reliable sizing/decapping die in that 1st station, then you are correct.
however, if it’s not 100%, then you have to decide what percentage of failed primer extractions is annoying enough to get you to convert to the 2 pass system.
I now have four 9mm sizing/decapping dies (2 Dillon, 2 Lee, standard & undersized). None of them work reliably 100% of the time. I picked up an FW Arms “popper” decapper, and that so far, has worked 100% of the time through about 5000 cases.
This is also my first auto indexing press. I’m coming from an RL550 where nothing happened until I indexed the press so if I wasn’t sure about anything it was easily verified. Things happen faster on the 1100, and I found that by going to a 2 pass system with multiple sizing/decapping dies added after the FW Arms Popper, then I could cruise through the 1st pass without really paying attention as there really wasn’t anything going on.
Then, when I switch toolheads to load, I pay closer attention, and the whole process is smoother since there are no spent primers to worry about and the press runs much smoother.
I also thought this would be a better plan if I automated the press, but in reality, I probably only shoot a few thousand rounds a year, so I’ve decided that I’ll spend the $2200 on primers when they become available rather than on an auto drive.
I use Dillon decap and sizing with pin filed slightly. I get less than 1% pull back primers. Also if you are running the swage station? You can feel the primer is still in the case, and remove that case at that station and continue loading. The other thing that solved all of my sizing problems ,was changing to the Lee final crimp and sizing die. And I check all in a plunk gage. The Dillon decapper with the spring assist seems to work fine for me. JD
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I don’t understand! Why the two steps! For 9mm I clean all mixed 9mm brass. Then spray a couple of hundred cases with Franklin case lube and size decap, swage,prime and flare case and load powder, drop bullet seat ,crimp and finished all in one pass. I have loaded thousands of rounds that way? JD
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I’ve tried them all! Pal filler the only way to go, worth every penny. JD
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18 hours ago, fastlane604 said:
I have a 507 C-Gr. I have often said that if I had my choice, I'd have the 507C's 32 moa circle and dot on an SRO or DPP (I have both) window. You obviously don't feel like the 64 moa circle is too big?
I’m 78 so bigger is better! LOL! I have 13 510Cs. I run them on everything except where they have to mount on the slide. Then I have been using Alpha3s. JD
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I use 510Cs on everything. I have it set up on my open CZ Chezmate. And on my black Mamba 22lr. I love the large window and circle dot setup. The other thing that is great is their warranty, they pay shipping both ways and stand behind the product. JD
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Just built up a Magnum Research Switch Bolt. Couldn’t fine one with the Axiom stock! So I bought the one with finger hole didn’t like it. So changed to the Axiom stock! Really like the adjustments and the reduced weight. 4.2 lbs with Holosun 510C. Feels great at the range! Haven’t shot in in event yet? Using MR trigger for now?
Curious about anyone else using MR and their set up’s? JD -
I’ve been using the Hyper Fire and haven’t had any problems with 2 lbs trigger. Runs great. JD
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I switched to the Black Mamba from a modified Buckmark. Added the thumb rest and love the way it shoots also seems more reliable than the Buckmark. JD
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Holosun 510 C has bright circle dot that is very bright
and a large window. I use them on pistols and rifles. Just my .02 JD
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If they have any left get the Alpha3!!!
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Holosun 510C on everything!! JD
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I use the APP with size and decap,bullet seat, and crimp. I just ordered a Lee seat/crimp die in hopes of saving one step? JD
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QUESTION! I can not get the allen bolt that is in the left end of the crank to move??? Any thoughts? I have tried heating it, still will not move! JD
Is there something I am missing?
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12 hours ago, 67isb said:
Timken BH-1610
Koyo BH-1610 Needle Roller Bearing, Full Complement Drawn Cup, Open, Inch, 1" ID, 1-5/16" OD, 5/8" Width, 5200rpm Maximum Rotational Speed
https://www.amazon.com/Koyo-BH-1610-Bearing-Complement-Rotational/dp/B007EDTXS6
Bearings for RL1050 are different. I have the part # for that too if you need it.
Same with mine, about 60 K and they are quite loose. Just ordered a set from Amazon. Did you use Loctite to reinstall? JD
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Can the bearings be replaced on a Dillon Super 1050? Crank and handle bearings? Or does it have to be returned toDillon? Thanks JD
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LOL! This the only thread! About a primer filler, that the only complain is that you can get them! Not one complaint, only rave reviews about the product. I have had all of the others and wouldn’t trade one Pal Filler for all of them. Just my .02 JD
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19 hours ago, Henny said:
Yes, that’s simpler, alright! Sometimes I overthink things. Although my modification works pretty good!I think yours is a great way solve the problem also. JD
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I can see how you can see this thread as a waist of your time.. if I had a 1050 that ran that well and I was as good at foreseeing problems in advance as you are I wouldn’t bother reading this post either.
Unfortunately some of us need the help of others! Hence this post!
Does that explain without being obtuse or Polly Anna? Thanks for your help with this matter. JD -
That seems like a lot of work to solve something that is pretty simple. See pictures below. Also!!! 99% of primer problems on my 1050 were solved with the purchase of a Pal Filler!! If all of the primers are right side up!! most problems will be solved.
Below pictures show a easy way to take off the primer tube. Just loosen bolts and slide thin right angle plastic shim between primer slide and primer tube block. Then hold the shim in place while taking out bolts and lifting primer tube off while shim holds primers in place. You don't loose any primers from tube!! You can even tape the shim in place and reinstall on press if you wish. I usually drop all of the primers in a tray and refill the tube. Just My .02 JD
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I just loaded my 5k round after buying and filling tubes with the Pall Filler! Not one upside down primer!!! Best money I spent, after all the crap I bought and returned. Just my .02 again. JD
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On 5/23/2021 at 8:37 AM, RePete said:
I use a piece of 0.010" brass shim stock, loosen the bolts, slide the shim between the filler and primer slide, bend the excess on both ends of the shim up, have a tray ( I use a Speer/Sierra bullet box) to catch the primers ready, remove the bolts and lift into the tray/box.
Been doing it this way for 13 years.
Easy peasy!! I have a similar thing. Piece of thing plastic bent at right angle. With beveled edge on the side that goes under the primer tube! Loosen bolts, slide beveled end of 1"flat plastic between primer tube block and slide! Hold in place while you remove bolts. Take off tube while holding right angle of plastic against tube block. Place tube on side or release primers into a cup or tray. JD
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1 hour ago, RGC said:
How does one get added to an order waiting list?
Drop a PM to Umberto and tell him your interest. Umberto54
JD
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From Double Alpha Academy $13.00 bullet feeder spring. JD
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The people the Tandemkross are great to work with! they should be able to tell you if there stuff will work! JD
Two pass reloaders, is the 1st pass before or after cleaning brass???
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Hey what ever makes you happy. Whit my arthritis, I don’t need the extra affort of things twice.
Just a side note I used to dry tumble! Have head of Brass Juice? Never going back to dry again, this stuff is great and clean. No more dust or little pieces of crap in your press. JD