SteelCityShooter
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Posts posted by SteelCityShooter
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First, nothing is indestructible. If you work at it hard enough you can wear out any pistol.
S&W K-frame revolvers (M19, M66 etc) had a reputation for having their top straps gas cut and cylinder end shake develop by a steady diet of high pressure 125gr .357 loads but it took a lot of them. The larger L-frame 586/686 frames were developed to greatly improve the gun's lifetime and succeeded.
The Ruger GP-100 is basically an L-frame with the same (Ruger fanboys say it's better) durability. The SP-101 is also very durable but smaller and not quite the equal of the L-frame/GP-100.
The Ruger Redhawk and Super GP-100 are probably the most durable .367 revolvers made.
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On 4/25/2023 at 10:21 AM, SteelCityShooter said:
I installed the Volquartsen "Target Hammer" in mine and it made a very noticeable improvement in the trigger pull. VQ no longer shows it (or any other parts for the PC Carbine) on their website but it should be available on ebay. A low cost and very worthwhile upgrade.
Time to revisit my VQ hammer recommendation. The last time I had the PCC to the range, I had several failures to fire and the gun doubled once! Apparently the hammer was occasionally following the bolt down as it didn't catch on the sear adequately. The FTFs were when the hammer fell slowly enough not to fire ne next round and the double was the time it did fall fast enough. It seems the hammer hook on the VQ isn't quite deep enough to be reliably retained by the sear. I've reinstalled the factory hammer.
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Back to the dry fire practice discussion. You don't want to use a laser that you have to watch for the light strike, you want a laser that scores the target for you. You concentrate on your sights and trigger pull and evaluate the hits after you fire.
A company named EMLS (there are others) makes battery powered laser "cartridges" that you load into the gun like a regular round. The firing pin strikes a pad where the primer would be and makes a quick flash. You shoot at a paper target and the "hit" is recorded using a free app on your smart phone. These cartridges are available in a variety of chambering and the price is modest. They work well and provide good practice. However, as you note you have to recock the gun after each "shot" unless it is a DA/SA.
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Congratulations and great shooting as usual. I may be wrong about this but at 2:01 and 2:33 in the video it looks like there were spectators allowed to stand where careless gun handling could have swept them. You obviously didn't but not everyone is a skilled as you.
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23 hours ago, Hammerman said:
IThe ets mags don’t work in the gun. I bought a couple 40s on sale for nothing I guess. The feed lips of the mags ride up in to the bolt and with the thickness of the plastic ets mags, you can’t seat a mag unless the bolt is open, then it won’t go forward.
Yeah, several comments on the ETS website say their M&P mags aren't reliable. Too bad as their Glock mags seem very good.
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52 minutes ago, K-Tex said:
With the 10mm 2.0 I installed a dpp and the 2.0 had the plate for it. No extra purchase needed.
All of the full size, compact and Shield OR models come with a DPP plate as standard. However, all of the S&W plates are plastic and that bothers some owners. Aftermarket plates in metal are available from CH Precision and DPP Titanium (from Amazon and others) if you insist on a metal plate.
The trick to not breaking screws in to tighten them to spec. and a little blue Loctite.
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I installed the Volquartsen "Target Hammer" in mine and it made a very noticeable improvement in the trigger pull. VQ no longer shows it (or any other parts for the PC Carbine) on their website but it should be available on ebay. A low cost and very worthwhile upgrade.
I've also installed TandemKross' trigger group cross pins, and their "Bolt Keeper" extended bolt hold-open and retaining pin and Taccom's ambidextrous rotary safety.
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On 4/11/2023 at 11:41 AM, dtuns said:
I backed out screws but hangs up often on the draw with the Metal M&P but works great with my plastic one.
Is your plastic M&P a 4.25"? Could be the front sight of the 5" Competitor catching on the holster end during the draw if the holster is made for the shorter barrel.
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I have a Ruger PC Carbine I purchased when they first came out in early 2018. It's pretty much stock except for a VQ target hammer but the problem I describe below predates the new hammer. Used with Ruger SR9 magazines it is 100% reliable.
I've tried the Glock magazine insert with mixed to poor results using both G26 10-round magazines and G18 33-round magazines. I get failures to lock back on the last round and an occasional ejection of an unfired round (i.e. load 10 rounds, fire 9 rounds followed by a click and find the 10th unfired round on the bench).
Any suggestions or comments. I'd like to be able to rely on Glock magazines but so far I can't.
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7 hours ago, dtuns said:
Doesn't hang up on draw at all?
No, not at all. Draw is just like my polymer frame M&P. Now, mine is the 4.25" standard format gun, not the Competitor, so I can't speak to that model.
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I have a DAA Pro holster for my 5" M&P 2.0 CORE and to fit my new 4.25" Metal Frame all I had to do was back out the tension knob a couple of turns. Yes, the Metal Frame is a bit wider but not a lot.
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On 3/4/2023 at 6:21 PM, tk4 said:
Sifting through the suggestions. Are any of these not recommended with coated bullets?
Sport Pistol is particularly recommended FOR use with coated bullets. It is cooler burning than TiteGroup and easier on the coating.
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Have you checked with Novak? They should be able to supply an exact match. Otherwise, Dawson should have a suitable one.
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If you can't find the factory supplied tool, get a set of "jeweler's screwdrivers" at any hardware or big box home store. It will have several small and thin blades and one or more of these will fit perfectly.
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On 12/21/2022 at 4:38 PM, rowdyb said:
I'm concerned about the material not there in the grip area around the textured areas....
You shouldn't be. The frame at the grip seems strong enough to drive over.
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On 3/20/2023 at 1:03 PM, touji said:
Given that it's designated as a 2.0, has anyone played with any of the aftermarket parts for the plastic 2.0 in regards to whether they work in the competitor? Curious about guide rods, trigger parts, etc.
Apex says their sear, striker block, etc. for the 2.0 polymer guns aren't "certified" for use in the metal frames. I know why.
I have a regular 4.25" Metal Frame and discovered the striker block has been changed from the polymer guns. The former spring and plunger under the sear on the polymer guns has been changed to use a longer spring and no plunger. That said, I installed an Apex DCAEK in my Metal Frame by using the Apex spring and buying the plunger on-line. So far it has worked just fine.
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Yep. They, and the Airweight/Scandium S&W J-frame 357s, are notorious for severe recoil. The stereotype "carry a lot, shoot very little" guns.
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On 3/16/2023 at 1:32 PM, blue72 said:
Can you direct me where I can find them in the forums ….thanks!!!
Here is the forum giving Steel Challenge course layouts:
https://forums.brianenos.com/forum/56-steel-challenge/
Also, the Steel Challenge Shooting Association website: https://scsa.org/. has all of the rules, etc.
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If you into Steel Challenge, all the stages are detailed in the appropriate forum here and on-line.
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On 2/12/2023 at 10:08 PM, Johnny_Chimpo said:
But hey the screws are tight so that can't be it.
The screws may be tight but if they are bottoming out in the tapped holes in the slide, the optic can move since it isn't tight.
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On 3/4/2023 at 12:28 AM, Nolan said:
With the Smith, bringing it to the start position with it unbagged and folded could be interesting.
I agree, that's a good way to get DQ'd immediately.
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The Magnetospeed can be fitted to revolvers with 4" or longer barrels, most semiauto pistols with a pic rail or similar dust cover mounting point and any rifle or shotgun. It's even suitable for full auto firearms. A major advantage is that it's immune to variations in the amount or type of ambient light. It will even work in complete darkness if you want. Most sky screen chronos are badly impacted by varying light conditions and transient shadows and won't work at all under flourescent or LED lighting.
The MS's downside is it won't attach to very short barrel revolvers or autos with no dust cover attachment point and the weight on the muzzle makes it unsuited for simultaneously zeroing the firearm while measuring velocity.
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If they turn out to be reliable and durable, I can see them cannibalizing some of Ruger's PC Carbine sales.
ETS sells 40-round magazines for the M&P and, if these are reliable, would make the S&W competitive with Glock mag PCCs in USPSA, etc. matches.
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From the above postings there are a couple of PCCs that do use M&P magazines but only from the M&P "full size" pistols. I'm sure there are none that use Shield magazines and probably never will be.
Noob here starting to mess with PCC
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
I recently shot a falling steel match using my JP GMR15 and, for the first time, a 33 round Glock factory mag with a TTI +10 extension. The mag/extension setup ran flawlessly and, even with my very mediocre skill level, I never had to reload during any stage. I can't think of any other magazine that would have performed better.
I was surprised to discover the mag+extension "only" took 41 rounds but have since learned that Glock 33-round mags and really 31 round mags with a factory+2 baseplate. So the mag body with the +10 TTI extension is really good for 41 rounds.