grottulf
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Posts posted by grottulf
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Thanks for the input guys!
It felt a little strange that you have to remove the bolt forward, but I have realized that the gas system needs more cleaning, so it actually makes sense to disassemble the gun from the front and back.
I have also learned the the newer IPSC-versions of the Derya mk12, has a barrel nut instead of two hex screws for the barrel.
And that's the version I'm thinking about buying.
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You can buy these in Sweden now.
Initial reviews are good.
They work with 24g loads out of the box.
And the gas system is adjustable with a set screw on the outside.
I will go and look at one as soon as I can...
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How do you do when you clean your guns?
If I understand it correctly, you need to remove the handguard, gas system AND barrel, before you can remove the bolt carrier...?
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It seems popular with drop in triggers for these.
I assume it's because of the polymer lower?
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I haven't got the rifle yet, but I'm already thinking about updates [emoji16].
I liked the stock handguard, but the fact that it isn't free floating doesn't feel right...
But the question is, does it really matter in a rifle lile this?
On a side note, what where they thinking when they decided to sell it with the Magpul MOE SL grip...?
The radius between the grip and the stock isn't even close to that of an AR [emoji15]
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I just asked him to reserve the MOE 15-22 for me [emoji16]
Now I just have to renew my shooting test, wait for my club to vouch for me, and then after 1-2 months hopefully get a license for it before I can take it home...[emoji2959]
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The specs on S&W:s homepage says that the PC version is only 30g (1.1 oz) heavier.
Can that really be correct?
I'm having a hard time believing that could have made such a difference in balance...
But if it is true, I guess a wheel weight inside the handguard would do the trick... [emoji848]
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I went to the dealer to look at a 15-22 today.
My first impression was that the standard version is really light!
He also had the performance center version,
I liked the weight and balance on that one alot better.
But I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the price difference. The PC version costed 67% more [emoji15] (roughly $1170 vs $700)
I don't think the trigger was that much better. The standard trigger was actually quite ok.
Are there other differences I should be aware of, other than the trigger and the barrel?
How much better is the precision in the PC version?
Other than that, I really liked the simplicity of the construction.
I liked how it's easy to take apart and clean.
Not that I do that very often...[emoji849]
And I'm not discouraged by the polymer chassi.
I shoot glocks after all
He happened to have a Hämmerli TAC R1 22 in stock as well. So I took a look at that one as well, while I was there.
The initial impression was that it felt more "solid", but that feeling faded fast when I inspected it closer. The internals looks like pot metal, and it looked more like a soft air gun, than a real gun.
It even made my GSG-522 feel like a high end rifle[emoji15].
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Here's the post about modifying the better mag adapter:
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/223240-nordic-components-3rd-gen-22-lr-uppers-are-in-stock/?do=findComment&comment=2809017
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Yes, No, and Maybe.
Yes, the 15-22 is more reliable than the Nordic. Mostly because of the better magazines.
No, the 15-22 is not compatible with ALL AR triggers, it will work with MOST, but like the Nordic and most other .22 AR, the firing pin is just a little bit higher than in a centerfire bolt and not all hammers will hit the firing pin.
Maybe, the Nordic may work with your JP trigger. I have not run a JP trigger with my Nordic. I have run Jard, Geissele SSA, & Hiperfire 24C in my Nordic upper.
The 15-22 is considerably lighter so you may be able to transition a little quicker, but the trade off is less stability for longer off-hand shots, so again maybe?
If you go with the Nordic, if you can buy a Better Mag adapter in Sweden, get one. It lets you run the better 15-22 magazines and has a functioning LRBHO. The Black Dog magazines used by the Nordic and most other .22 AR do not activate the bolt stop. Instead the bolt is held open when it hits the empty magazine follower and the bolt drops to battery when the magazine is removed.
Oops, my bad! I have the Better Mag Adapter in my both of my CMMG type .22 AR. I don't have one in the Nordic, which leads me to the question of why there isn't one? It may or may not work, but I don't recall if I've tried it. They say as you get older the first two things to go are your memory and something else???
Thanks for all the input!
I think I read somewhere that the better mag adapter needed som modification for LRBHO to work with the NC upper.
In my research I've also found that my BAD-lever wont work with the NC upper.
So if I go that route, I'll probably remove that lever completely.
I mostly use it to lock the action open when "showing clear " to the RO anyway, and I could just hold the charging handle while showing it instead.
And I think I can live without LRBHO. If I've shot a mag empty I've one something wrong anyway...[emoji849]
It would be nice if I could use my lower just as it is.
But it sounds like I would need that adapter anyway, for the gun to be reliable...?
I'm planning on going to a local dealer to look at the S&W next week.
None of the local dealers seems to have the NC upper in stock though.
But I'd love to hear more input from you guys as well!
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I'm thinking of buying a new rifle for IPSC mini-rifle competition.
The S&W M&P 15-22 cost nearly the same as a Nordic components RB-22 upper here.
And I'm not sure what route to take...
If I buy the NC upper, I could use the lower from my NEA-15, wich has a really great JP trigger kit.
But on the other hand, a complete weapon is always nice to have...
Are there any differences in reliability?
Is one faster to shoot than the other?
Is the trigger/hammer in the S&W compatible with all AR triggers?
I know that the S&W is lighter, but I'm not sure if I consider that a disadvantage or not...
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Ah, I didn't know that [emoji106]
Just for the record, the Viper PST 1-4x24 is as you say, not daylight bright. But I think these fellas are recommending the newer PST 1-6x24, which has a much brighter center dot and different reticles than the older 1-4x24.
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The Meoptas are MUCH brighter than Vortex viper and strike eagle.
I haven't used a razor though, so I can't speak for them.
But my Vortexes are not bright enough for competitive shooting IMHO.
They could probably work if you have an offset mounted red dot for the fast close range shots.
I dont like offset sights though, but that is a personal preference.
For reference I have a Vortex viper PST 1-4, a Vortex strike eagle1-8, a Meopta ZD 1-4 and a Meopta Meostar R1 1-4.
The vortex are great scopes for their price, and have super great warranty. But both optics and recticles are much better in the Meoptas IMHO.
And I can really recommend the ZD.
The "chevron" reticle is great for long range shooting, without feeling cluttered.
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A heat shield for the barrel is very nice to have, especially if you load with your strong hand.
I really like a fiber optics front bead as well.
After a long day at the range with alot of less than ideal shooting positions you might want a softer recoil pad also, I know I did.
An opening of the loading port never hurts either.
/Fredrik
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I've sent them an EmailLook on there Facebook page and send them a message.
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Thanks again for all the advices, guys!
The Z-gun caddies and belt looked really interresting.
I couldn't find a dealer in the EU, but
maybe I can import it directly from Russia...
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In IPSC you cannot use a chest rig? I'd be screwed, I'm too fat to keep all my shells on my belt.
Yeah, I think it's a very strange rule, and I don't understand the point of it at all...
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I've used & still own just about every type of quads. A lot comes down to personal preference....
I never really got on with the AP custom type. I found the shells were too far apart for a consistent grab & it only took one episode of the steel sprung part that holds the shell in place going under my finger nail for me to stop using them for good.
I used the original Taccoms pretty successfully for a long time. They're great. Great price, great retention, the shells are close together & they're able to handle different length shells without adjustment. The down side to them is method that they hold the shell. Because they grip the top of the top shell & the bottom of the bottom shell they have a tendency to "V" in the hand. This can be mitigated with (lots of) training
I leapt enthusiastically at the magnetic Taccoms but could never get them to give consistent hold on the shell. Probably down to my ineptitude more than design.
The newer generation of European based quads are all very similar in design
Ezload, Magload & the gen4 Kings all locate the bottom shell & hold the top in place with a good magnet. I've used them all & I still own most (I'm a caddy magpie.....)
Honestly, there isn't much between them. They all need adjusting if you're changing shells although some have designed ways of to soak up small amounts of variance.
I'm now using the gen5 Kings & really struggle to find anything bad to say about them. They aren't cheap, but then quality rarely is
I predominantly shoot IPSC based matches in the UK (Yes, we're allowed some guns) so my rig is angled towards that.
My rig holds 28 & I preload from a separate 8.
A long IPSC course of fire is going to be a maximum of 32 rounds, so 36 should be plenty....... should be.......
Recommendations?
Given you shoot a match or 2 a year & don't want to invest Kings money, I'd suggest the Ezload or the Magload. Because of the design they won't "V" like a Taccom even if you have small hands.
Obviously you should save up & get some kings though....... [emoji6]
Thanks for sharing your experience!
I hadn't heard of Magload. I'll check them out as well.
How do you fasten the big Ezload and King caddies to your belt?
And what kind of belt do you use for them?
Isn't it maximum 28 rounds for a long course btw?
And I think that you can't start with condition 3 if there are more than 23 round in the stage.
But I could very likely have misunderstood the rules.
And I will probably need a lot of extra ammo anyway [emoji4]
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How du you pull from the 8S4Q?I find that the 8S4Q makes it easier to get a good grab every time for me. I have the other style on a chest rig, and the shells definitely "pull" a little easier, at the expense of being less consistent. I could get used to either one, but familiarity and consistency with the 8S4Q makes me lean heavily on them. I only use the chest rig when I can't fit enough shells on my belt. I have years of practice with the non canted version and much less with the canted, so it is definitely a muscle memory/technique thing for me.If you pull out the top shells first, can you pull the lower shells more or less straight up, so you don't need so much force?
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Thanks for the input guys!
I should probably use the load 2 technique, but it's fun to learn something new [emoji4]
And the little testing I've done with quad loading wasn't as catastrophic as could be expected [emoji3]
In IPSC I'm limited to have all shells around the waist btw, if that changes things...
And I need a minimum of 24 rounds, but I think I'll want 28 or more since I'll probably drop some and miss some targets...
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Hi guys,
I've been shooting IPSC handgun and rifle here in Sweden for some years, but now I want to try out shotgun with my Mossberg 590.
Could you please help me decide what shell caddies to use for quad loading?I would like to get a King gen5 caddy, but I'm happy if I'll get the time to shoot one competion a year,
so I really can't justify the price of those.So I've mostly been looking at the other end of the price range.
Taccom sport series seems to be a popular choice for the budget oriented.But I haven't got the largest hands (size 8 in gloves) so I don't get a very good grip on the lower shell near the wrist.
I don't have much problem getting the shells in shotgun when reloading,
but could it be a problem when I fetch the shells from the caddy?
Since the lower shells are held in place with clips...I'm also wondering about the difference between the canted 8S4 caddies and the 8S4Q caddies with a bottom plate.
8S4:
8S4Q:
would one of them be better than the other in this regard?
I'm also a little interrested in the EZLOAD caddies.
They look a lot like the KING caddies, but with a lower price tag.
Has anyone tried both, and can share their thoughts about them?EZLOAD:
KING:
Tigris Arms XT12 - True AR10 shotgun?
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
There are a couple russian videos about it on youtube.
Too bad I can't understand a word of it...
Anyone here understands Russian, and can give a lowdown on what he says?
This is an initial review, if I understand correctly:
And this is a follow up after 2000 rounds:
Apparantly there are already aftermarket comps, Magwells and handguards for them.
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