IndyColtsFan
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Posts posted by IndyColtsFan
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34 minutes ago, terrydoc said:
If only it was that easy, I'm in Australia and the importer ( which is in my city) doesn't deal with the public and the dealer is in another state half the country away. that's why I'm after the size I have no issue paying the 20c they will cost me I just need the correct ones. I'd prefer not to have to take the slide with me but that may be the option.
Sorry, didn’t realize you were in Australia. Here is a link if you can’t get them locally:
http://www.sigsauerguns.com/sig-sauer-romeo1-screws-7400101-r.html
I was going to go this route before I contacted Sig. (Not sure if they ship out of US)
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1 hour ago, terrydoc said:
Can I assume the screws are same size for 320RX? Sent the R1 complete off for warranty and they didn't send the screws or tool back.
Just call Sig and they should send you a set of screws for free (especially since they didn't return the ones you sent with your optic). I called last Monday and had a set of screws by Thursday.
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On 10/21/2018 at 1:37 PM, 021411 said:
Linked up with my buddy yesterday at the range with his X5. Yeah night and day difference comparing stock barrel to stock barrel. Within 15 yards will mine still hit A zones? Sure, but I demand more.
Were both stock barrels roughly the same production age?
Just wondering if Sig made a barrel modification along the way. We know they changed the finish from the earlier, silver color barrels to the black finish that is coming out now. Suppose they could have made a tweak to the bore as well.
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32 minutes ago, DsWright said:
Mine loves 135gr .357 Hitek bullets. the .356 had super light rifling marks that i recovered, the .357 sized look great when recovered and are crazy accurate. this is an option i think to many people overlook. 9mm barrels could run best with anything from .355 to .358 usually.
Who are you getting your .357s from?
Did you slug your barrel before going to the .357s?
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So, complete noob here to the TSO. Reading another thread, there appears to be “old frame” and “new frame” TSOs. Are all these popping up the “new frame”? What are the big differences? Any advantage one way or the other?
Looking at a TSO for limited next season.
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My factory barrel groups much better with coated bullets sized at .356 than the blues I've tried at .355.
147gr RN BB vs 147gr FP Acme
Loaded to same OAL
130PF
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3 minutes ago, chenault said:
I've been having cases from time to time get stuck like a stove pipe. Has anyone else had this problem or know what might cause this?
Are you shooting soft loads with the factory recoil spring? I had this issue until I swapped the guide rod and went to a reduced power recoil spring.
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Just picked up a ProChrono Dlx with built-in Bluetooth. Ran about 30 rounds on Friday before getting rained out. Having everything show up on my phone was very handy. I didn’t think price was too bad at $129. Well less than some of the alternatives.
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37 minutes ago, jcc7x7 said:
I used tungsten Golf club powder in the grip void of my RX (i.e. same as the weight in the x-five)
Also snuck some in the bottom of the guide rod area of the plastic frame by dermeling a grove for it.
This is on a Carry Optics gun that doesn't limit the weight by manc. spec but has a 45 oz limit.
Probably not helpful for Prod. class, but maybe for CO
Honestly doesn't help splits for me but I tend to grip hard.
Good for the mentel side of things as I don;t feel like I'm giving anything up to the metal frame guns
Thanks for the info! My thought was to relocate weight under the muzzle as I’m not sure it does much good in the grip when you factor the weight of a loaded mag & basepad.
Did you mix epoxy with the tungsten powder?
Any alternative sources for tungsten guide rods other than Springer? Nothing against them at all, but it looks like the price went up to $100 and are back ordered.
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22 hours ago, Gviz said:
Do you guys add additional weight for carry optics and if so how and where? Thanks in advance
Tagged for interest in replies. I’ve been thinking about removing my grip weight in order to add more muzzle weight for my production gun. Not sure where it would go other than a tungsten guide rod.
I thought there was a thread somewhere that showed a ~43oz X5 that appeared stock on the outside. Obviously this is well over the weight limit for prod, but I would be interested I see how they got the weight that high.
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I would love to see a comparison between the Alpha and Shadow 2.
Does/has anybody had both?
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1 hour ago, De-c-o-y said:
I did it! Rotated the guide rod clockwise which releases the slide and the fcu.
Nicely done!
I figured it was the guide rod that was stuck in the FCU.
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Can you hold the guide rod and tap the barrel gently with a rubber mallet back towards the rear of the slide?
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Well, I received my Apex trigger bar this weekend. Installed and (dry fire) function checked in my UNupgraded X5. Seems to work just fine. I haven’t been to the range yet, however, so I cannot attest to 100% function. I did not install the overtravel spacer and spring.
Observations:
Moved break point forward and reduced take-up as advertised.
Seems to have slightly increased pull weight (no trigger pull gauge) with OEM trigger.
Trigger pull is not as “smooth” as with OEM bar. May smooth out after break in with use and some Mothers mag polishing.
Price seems high for such a small part(s).
I will keep this in my backup gun for now.
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Leave it to Alma to convince me why I should send them in to Sig.
Thanks for the install video Alma!
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10 hours ago, z40acp said:
This is the question. I am still on the fence about sending my X5 in.
I'm not even on the fence. I have no plans to send my P320's in for the "upgrade." I understand the "risks" and have decided against it. I'm still just trying to get the best possible trigger system I can in my X5. Just wondering if the Apex trigger bar will work and if it is worth the investment.
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On 2/27/2018 at 10:25 PM, sdm702 said:
same here, had no intention of sending mine in until i noticed none of the upgraded triggers will work with mine.
We were discussing this topic in another thread. Probably better suited here.
We know GG & Apex say not to use their parts in unupgraded guns, but does that mean they won't work? I have no intention of sending my 320s in for "upgrade."
On the upgraded guns you guys are getting back, is the trigger bar the same? If so, then Apex should work regardless of upgrade.
Other than a lower mass trigger, is trigger the same (pivot point, trigger bar connection, etc...)?
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3 minutes ago, Resjudicata said:
According to the websites both the GG and Apex stuff only works with a factory upgraded gun. I have no idea what the difference really is on the Apex stuff. The GG kit has more parts so I understand why it can only work on an upgraded gun.
I was looking at the PELT 2 trigger by itself. I did notice the competition kit says "intended for" and "designed for" use in voluntary upgrade guns. I don't see it saying that it only works in post-ipgrade guns.
I'm not sure if the trigger bar changed with the recall.
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Do these only work in the post-recall guns or is that statement CYA for liability purposes?
Same question for the Apex trigger bar.
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I hunted locally forever to find the correct screws for the rear sight plate on my X5. Original owner had installed a Vortex red dot. I searched hardware stores, hobby shop, etc... all with no luck for an exact match.
I finally got them from Fastenal, SKU 23070. #4-48 x 3/16" socket head cap screw.
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*Knock on wood* I've had good luck with the 147gr RN from Freedom. I'm a thousand or so in with no issues. Prior to going to this, I was using Federal 147gr FP. The Freedom is noticibly softer shooting, but it should be based upon advertised velocity. I've got a couple boxes of the FM 135gr to test and see how it performs.
It's a balance to find the softest round without going sub-minor.
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FWIW... Not sure if It’s just the Sig mags, but I had to get the SP floor plates as well. The base pads would get knocked loose when dropping on concrete during indoor matches. The Sig OEM floorplates had a very shallow knob to secure the base pad whereas the SP floorplates have a pronounced button that seats much farther into the hole in the base pad.
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They’re not one of your listed options, but I run the .25” Springer Precision pads on my Sig mags.
Looks like they're available for Glock as well. $16-$18.50 each depending on how many you order. Seems to be on the same cost scale as Dawson’s.
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Topgunupply has the curved trigger PELT kit for $79. You may be able to sell the trigger and sear pin. Awful expensive for a $4 spring though.
Silicone Carbide grip tutorial
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Thanks for posting the video. I’m trying to figure out how to build-up my X5 grip a little more before doing this. I guess you could let it dry and do multiple layers in places?
What else could you use to add more girth to the grip before doing epoxy/grit?