third_of_five

I'll be there too guys, but not on sunday. Unfortunantly, my schedule will only allow me to shoot on the Friday PM timeslot. I'll see you guys at the bar though

Thanks Randy. I am curious however, what tool would be used to deepen the cylinder stop slots? Would it require a Dremmel tool?

I glad it wasn't the cylinder or the ejector star, and yes Renny, I am experiancing a "rounding" on the cylinder stop. It isn't a "rounding" so much as it is a "wearing away" from contact with the cylinder. I'm gonna have to do some shopping and get this girl ready for Summer Blast. ToF

Thanks for the replies. I can say it isn't short stroking. A few hours ago, I was messing around with the revolver and put a black mark with a magic marker on the side of the cylinder. I pulled the trigger, and held it back to the rear. I can actually "see" the cylinder skip. Obviously, I can't see everything that is going on becuase it all happens so fast, but the lock-up of the cylinder takes longer and turns a little more than normal. As for any trigger work, only some garage gunsmithing, but I've never touched the cylinder stop or the cs spring. The cylinder has had a lot of peening and frequently I remove the peened metal with an exacto knife or a file. The hole in the frame, thankfully, is still circular. However an odd occurrence I noticed when I marked the cylinder. The cylinder would skip over the same chambers, and not randomly.

Hey guys, I was at the range yesterday practicing my usual IPSC stuff with my 625. I noticed that when I pulled the trigger quickly the cylinder would skip. Also, I don't know if this is important but when the cylinder did skip, the firing pin didn't strike the primer. The hammer fell, but there would be absolutely NO MARK on primer. About a year ago, removed that "rebounding hammer block", that thing that prevents the hammer from making contact with the firing pin, in the event the hammer falls but the trigger isn't pulled. So I know it isn't that. Is my revolver doomed? Thanks guys

Thanks guys I swear, with the knowledge you guys have about revolvers, someone should start a "revolver troubleshooting site" and charge money The ejector star DOES sound like it would be an issue, but I clean the whole thing regularly. After looking at my spent brass and the recoil plate (thanks R112mercer), it appears that not only do the primer flatten out, but also "fireforms" to the recoil plate. There are a couple (3) evenly spaced toolmarks on the recoil plate, and those are being etched into the primers. Also, all of my reloads are below flush so I compared unfired rounds to my fired brass and you can see the primers (of the fired brass) are leveled with the case head. I am currently using "abused-stepchild" 45 brass that has been shot and reloaded going on nearly 2 years. I think what I will do is load some rounds using new never-fired brass and see if i get that same binding effect. It may be those primer pockets after all.

Wow, 300lb. that sounds fairly accurate as to what's happening. There are toolmarkings on the "breechface" that have engraved themselves onto each fired primer. Not major scratches, but they are noticable. I have been using that ICORE load for nearly a year. I "may" have had problems in the past, but none stick out in my mind (that were as bad as tonights match). I'd never guess that "too little" power would be responsible for the primer to back out. Any ideas why?

Thanks for the imput, you guys are great! As for load, I'm using jacketed bullets, bullseye powder, fed primers, and a mixed assortment of 45 acp brass that has been shot and reloaded for probably 2 years now. Upon inspection of my fired cases, the primers appear to have marks from hitting the back of the revolver (i dont know what that spot is called, but it's the spot that includes the hole for the firing pin). It looks like a perfect impression so is it possible that the primer, when the roudn is fired, actually "forms" to the back of my revolver, causing it to temporarly get stuck? and if so, does this have anything to do with me using old brass or federal primers? Once again thanks

Hi guys, I need some help. I have been experiancing some problems with the trigger for my 625. Tonight I was shooting a club match, and there were several instances my trigger pull would feel extra heavy and/or wouldnt budge, until i really SQUEEEEEZZZZED the trigger. To give you an example, I would load and make ready, the timer would go off and my first shot would be fine. When I went to fire my second shot, my trigger felt as if it were stuck (i have a 7lbs pull). So, naturally I pulled the trigger even harder and the trigger would give and the round went off. Same for the third, fourth, ect. I would hit the reload and everything happened again. I know it sounds like I might not be letting the trigger "reset" all the way, but trust me, I am. It was really, REALLY strange. Also, I dont know if this matters but earlier during the afternoon I was shooting my IPSC major ammo and during the match I switched to my ICORE 127pf ammo. I didn't have a single trigger problem shooting my major stuff. Any advice you guys can give me would be greatly appreicated Thanks

The last time I screamed and belched fire was when I ate bad mexican food.... Though you'll have to give us a heads up on how it went

HAAZAAAH! the S&W gods answered my prayers. A while back i was holding the S&W Thunder Ranch in 44spl and saying "I would love to have this, but only if they made it in 45". Well now i dont have any excuse (I can hear my wallet quietly crying)

Wow Doug, awsome job! Is it going to be two toned or are you going to blue/parkerize the lower? Johnson Engineering strikes again ~ Jimmy