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Stickman301

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Posts posted by Stickman301

  1. On 3/10/2020 at 10:20 PM, DJRyan13 said:

    https://www.hasgrok.com/?product=feedinator-1000-case-feeder

     

    Starting to get sick of stuck cases in the gate and cases jamming up in chute with my Dillon case feeders. I upgraded two of my Dillon’s to the variable switch and I swear that made it worse. I also bought a new one outright to with adjustable gate and that hasn’t been any better. I followed the Dillon manual and have called them twice. No help... “You using the washer?” Um... no... “Try slowing it down”... Um.. it’s going so slow I have to wait on case to load next round and it’s not any better... 

     

    Anyway.. don’t want to turn this into a Dillon sucks thread but that’s how I am feeling about their antiquated case feeder.

     

    SO, has anyone gotten any direct hands on review of the Feedinator? I tried calling owner. He answered once and never emailed me quote he promised and didn’t reply to a message I left him about a month later so to be honest, I am not sure I am going to risk it unless someone can tell me how great it is. Thanks!


    here’s what I did to my Dillon and it runs like a champ.

    1. Take out plate. trim opening on bottom back of feeder bowl. You’re essentially letting the cases drop quicker from further back. Make sure cut is straight and not angled.

     

    2. make funnel smaller at top. I just used cardboard from primer box and taped it in. I only did one side. Left side of funnel as you look at it.

     

    3. bevel underside of plate for each case slot. I used a sharp box cutter and cleaned up with dremel. 
     

    4. make a stiff arm out of cardboard and tape to inside of bowl several inches before opening. All it does is flick brass that’s bunched up.

     

    what you are doing is letting the brass fall straight down and not giving it enough room if it tumbled to get lodged. Beveling plate openings seem to lessen case extractor grooves getting caught on rough plastic of plate.

     

    i don’t have that press any longer or I would send pics. I got the ideas from a post with pics somewhere.

     

    im running a Revo with 14” feeder now. Zero issues. Hope this helps.

  2. Depends on length of barrel, hole size, caliber, comp, load. At some point the holes will take away gas from allowing the comp to work most effective.

    I have 4 on 5” 38 barrel with Akai gill comp

    3 on 5” 9mm barrel with Akai gill comp

    3 on 4.65” 38 barrel with Akai shoto comp

     

    Also depends on what you want.  There’s more to it than just flatness. Like dot movement, how hard it hits your hand, dot tracking, return to zero.

     

    5” 38 barrel with 4 holes and gill comp tracks the best.

     

    4.65” 38 barrel with 3 holes and shoto comp is the flattest, and fastest return to zero but hits the hardest. 
     

    Both are running AA#7 with 125gr BB

  3. I’ve had about 4 of them. There is a difference between them. I’ve had some that will make a pop on the upstroke and some won’t. Brass is lubed. No change to press other than each die. Weirdest thing. I’ve since used a Dillon or MA to decap then use the Lee as a hold down over swage. This combo seems to works well and not stress brass or machine. Both are adjusted to shell plate then backed off 1/4 turn.

  4. I did the jump from 1050 with autodrive to Revo.  Mine has all the options. Digital powder measure, primer collator, large case feeder. It runs like a champ.  Didn’t have to make an adjustments to case feeder. Powder measure is accurate to .5 grain.  Primer collator runs great but you have to keep it full or adjust speed to number of primers or I’ll get an upside down primer once in a while. Easy to fix before it gets loaded. I load at 2500/hour with no issues. Other than keeping everything filled. 

  5. 34 minutes ago, DJRyan13 said:

    Oh, I should add.. I got the 14” case feeder by accident. M7 shipped wrong one. I cut them a deal to keep it. Looking back, I should have either been dishonest and not told them... or told them to take it back and ordered press without a feeder.

     

    The case feeder is excellent and worth every penny if you stick to a couple calibers. But not if you want to use the press with a dozen calibers like me.  

     

    I only load two calibers.  Also have a Manual 1050 Incase I don’t want to change at all.  I just shoot way more 38SC than 9mm.

  6. 1 hour ago, DJRyan13 said:

    The big one for Mark7Reloading is awesome but caliber conversions (just for the case feeder) are a bit expensive. From the Hasgrok site, it appears caliber specific conversions are about $20. In both cases, it’s a lot more work than changing just the feed plate like Dillon and Hornady. 

     

    I have a Revolution. Love it. The 14” case feeder is great. I wanted to run more calibers on the press so I am swapping case feeder with my Dillon instead. It’s always worked just great for me so no need to spend more on the conversions. I may eventually buy conversions for MK7 but already spent enough. 

     

    Good luck with your choice. 


    Good to hear. I have a Revo coming and I’ve heard from a few people that case feeders are hit or miss.  I know they keep improving their stuff.  The Dillon feeder works great for 9mm but it’s a little slow for 38SC.  

  7. On 10/20/2019 at 3:16 PM, XDoctor said:

    I'm in about the same place.  I'd love to reduce the time I have to stand in front of the press.  Having trouble deciding between the 1050 or 1100 with an ammobot, or just going with the Revolution. 

     
    Comes down to Time and Money.  If you have the money but not the time then get a Revo.

     

    If your budget won’t allow it then get a 1050 with Mark 7 Pro. They just dropped their autodrive prices to $1999 permanently.  

  8. I’ve put thousands of blue bullets through my open guns.  I don’t get any smoke.  I zeroed the new gun last week at 25 and the bullet holes were touching.  I’ve ran JHPs before. They both have the same amount of build up on the comp. the blue bullets are just a lot cheaper. Especially when you buy 10k at a time for the discount. 
     

    KKM commander hybrid barrel

    Akai titanium comp

    125gr Blue Bullet TC

  9. I have 2 DAA Race Master. Have the PT Evo block and the Cheely aggressive fits perfect.

     

    i actually had to dremel the PT block for the actual PT grip to not bind. 
     

    ive never had the gun come out during a match or even in 3gun. It stays locked pretty well.

  10. 22 hours ago, PokerNGuns said:

    Currently set up with 650 with MBF. Only reload 9mm. Main hang ups involve primer seating failure due to crimped/ringers, but it’s enough to get you out of groove and can be aggravating. Used range brass and 3 lots of cleaned (supposedly sorted) brass from 2 companies this year. Everything was either wet tumbled or ultrasonic cleaned. 
     

    Looking at reducing time spent pulling then handle this upcoming year. However I’m unsure if the move up to a 1050/1100 resolve my issues as It looks like different opinions of Swager station and effectiveness on pocket problems. With the 650 I can feel the issue and have avoided any booms even with the federal primers I use.

     

    With thoughts of also adding automation it seems most add processing to the routine. I really don’t want to add that extra time even if I'm not pulling the handle.
     

    Looking for opinions from those who have been in similar circumstance and if they made the jump. Will the time savings I’m wanting be realistic or will I just be saving arm some and spending time saved on extra processing/brass cleaning methods/automation issues? 


    I was in your same place a few years ago. I switched to a 1050. Takes a little longer to get everything perfect setting up but it works way better. Only brass it doesn’t like are mil brass, the WCC. And even then it’s will load a primer perfectly in them 50% of the time. 
     

    I wet tumble, dry then sort. I only remove mil brass, stepped or weird headstamps. Get a neck expander die and put above swage. Powder funnel is only used to drop powder not flare now. 

  11. On 10/7/2019 at 1:58 PM, himurax13 said:

    Do you prefer 115 or 124 for making major and does a Hollow Point make that much of a difference.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
     

    115 will let you use more powder but in Major that bullet is screaming through your barrel. 
     

    124/5 are nice. You can use them in 9maj or 38SC. Plenty of powder to work the comp. 

     

    I don’t use JHP because media will get in the front when you tumble to get lube off. They are more accurate than most but could cause malfunctions if media gets into your gun.

     

    I've been using Blue Bullet 125gr TC. Feeds good and pretty accurate. 

  12. On 10/16/2019 at 11:46 AM, Trentmopar said:

    Look into Blackdog Gunworks.  Can't remember his name but I belive he has a facebook page and his guns are incredible.


    I believe he has stopped making guns. I saw a post from him awhile back about not doing it anymore. 

  13. 7 hours ago, inkballedtarget said:

    Thanks for the feed back. What gun are you running the 9mm out of, and what OAL are using?  

     

    Thanks for the information. I have debated between the 125 and the 147 gn. Do you have a specific preference to the FN v. RN, or is that just how the 147 Blue comes? I think they make a 125 gn TC and RN, not sure about the 147. 

     

    Flat nose are what I first bought and they worked great so I stuck with them. Easy to measure with calipers. Stay stacked in bullet feeder tube. I run the 125gr TC in Major and they  stack weird in the bullet feeder tube and sometimes get stuck or hung up.

  14. I’ve loaded 9mm minor loads with Clays and have shot a few thousand rounds out of my X5.  3.0gr with Blue Bullet 147gr FN @ 1.145”. Mixed brass and Fed small pistol primer. 10 shot average was 896fps. Never had any issues. Shoots soft and pretty clean. 

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